And then it started knockng and puked black smoke

[Bersaglieri]

EFI Live V2 showed up today, but I'm totally clueless where to even start. Shortly, Ill be putting my 3rd grade reading level to the test in various EFI live threads, anyone have some they would like to recommend? Right now all I care about is the diagnostic side.

I agree it's an injector, I'm just trying to narrow it down to which one or two. After that I can verify the voltage and continuity to ground and replace the injector as necessary. Any good threads on checking balance rates with a V2 or turning off one injector at a time to isolate?

That being said let me ask this. What is the consensus on replacing only certain problematic injectors vs replacing them all or 4 at a time? Forgive me if these questions are redundant, but I was expecting to have more Duramax knowledge before I had a garage bay full of fail.

 

[z71havinfun]

I know theres been some confusion on how/which injector to shut off using EFI live this thread should help save you some hair when pin pointing which injector

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread...rol-injector-cut&highlight=cylinder+numbering

 

[Bersaglieri]

Ok, I finally got back in town and am trying to do some diagnostics this weekend. I'm going to try what I can with the V2 before I tear into hard parts.

I updated my V2 according to the ATP instructions. I pulled codes and other than 2 ABS codes I got P1093. I think P1093 is low rail pressure, but I'm not sure if it's a residual code or something new. I was planning on clearing them but wanted to check here first.

Now I read 'z71havinfun' post and understand how that could cause problems. However I don't know how to use EFI live enough to even get to that point. So let's break this down for me. Basically I plug the V2 to the ALDL port and also to my laptop. I run either V7 or V8 programming on the laptop to view balance rates and make logs of the truck idling or running. Then I can review the data after I shut it off?

Yes, I'm that green to EFI live. If anyone wants to give up some time on the phone, I'd gladly take some advice. I was excepting to take my time learning this but I got a transfer and have to move everything I own in 2.5 weeks and make a 1800 mile trip.

 

[Bersaglieri]

Little update: It was #5 injector, replaced it and it ran fine for a week. Then #4 injector stuck itself wide open rolling to a stop light. Seems weird that my injectors seem to go form perfect to stuck open. If you use a Tech2 and shut it down the truck runs fine. It's going to get the other 7 injectors because I can't afford to get stranded on the highway somewhere.

I still haven't learned anything new about EFI, just haven't had the time. I've been utilizing a Tech2 a friend has.


I'll do more updates later with pictures and info on the old injectors. #5 had a rusty fuel inlet compared to the other 3 on the passenger side. I'm curious how #4 and the others on the drivers side will look, or if the new injectors will suffer the same fate as the old ones...

 

[Kappa9012]

debris typically falls into the inlet when you pop the line off, it's the rust and crud that develops on the nut.

But it certainly does sound like your injectors are getting debris or have had been exposed to debris at some point in time. do you run an additive or anything?

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

I think you need to do new lines and a fass to

 

[Bersaglieri]

There wasn't any debris that I could see, but the metal of the injector inlet was rusted. It's [#4] the only one of all 8 that looked that way. I've run a little power service before, but really I've only put maybe 1.5-2 tanks of fuel through this thing. Tough I'm wondering if I should flush the fuel system [fuel rails, etc].

Good idea, new lines and a fuel system might be in order. I've already got the Nate CAT fuel filter adapter but I'm still on the fence about keeping the truck. A FASS would be a bad investment if I wind up selling it. But, I do have stuff from other projects; few filter heads, Carter electric pump, a belt driven pump, 1/2" fuel line, and a filters/water separators.

We're going to check and adjust the valves as necessary too, night sure if they've been done in ti's 300k mile life. Might do the downpipe while we've got the extra space.

EDIT: We had two injector cups pull out. One on the bad #5, another on the #7. Both had the injectors installed wrong with the oring being rolled up and didn't have the injectors seating well. I'll post pictures later, but below the oring on both injectors were covered in carbon and some oil. #5 being the worse of the two. Now #4 was not that way, only the rust. Not sure if that caused anything, but I figured it'd be worth it to ad.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Rust in the lines is normal. Almost every one I've seen has rust. Dont go crazy chasing it, it breaks loose and falls down into the injector when you undo the high pressure lines. Take your lines off and soak them in evaporust or clr to clean them up before reinstalling them...

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

There wasn't any debris that I could see, but the metal of the injector inlet was rusted. It's [#4] the only one of all 8 that looked that way. I've run a little power service before, but really I've only put maybe 1.5-2 tanks of fuel through this thing. Tough I'm wondering if I should flush the fuel system [fuel rails, etc].

Good idea, new lines and a fuel system might be in order. I've already got the Nate CAT fuel filter adapter but I'm still on the fence about keeping the truck. A FASS would be a bad investment if I wind up selling it. But, I do have stuff from other projects; few filter heads, Carter electric pump, a belt driven pump, 1/2" fuel line, and a filters/water separators.

We're going to check and adjust the valves as necessary too, night sure if they've been done in ti's 300k mile life. Might do the downpipe while we've got the extra space.

EDIT: We had two injector cups pull out. One on the bad #5, another on the #7. Both had the injectors installed wrong with the oring being rolled up and didn't have the injectors seating well. I'll post pictures later, but below the oring on both injectors were covered in carbon and some oil. #5 being the worse of the two. Now #4 was not that way, only the rust. Not sure if that caused anything, but I figured it'd be worth it to ad.

Rolled orings are relatively common...

 

[Bersaglieri]

Injectors are all in and the valve got adjusted. Truck runs much smoother, but we got an SES code for low rail pressure. We have more diagnosing to do but the pressure remained in the 8k-9k range when we demanded 20k+ from it. I guess I could be buying a new CP3 to match those new injectors.

Are remans and option for a CP3 replacement? What about LBZ stuff? Who is trustworthy to buy those from?

I think I'm past the point of return on this truck, time to go balls deep, fix everything and just keep it.

 

[Brent@LDS]

Make sure you stick with an OEM Bosch CP3 when buying, we have them in stock.

 

[Bersaglieri]

Thanks Brent, but I sourced this locally through a friend.

The LBZ CP3 showed up and I'm just waiting to talk to ATP/IdahoRob about which 5 tunes to put on the DSP5. It's tough to choose, I'm not sure how wild I'm going to go with a 300,000 mile bottom end. Even though I'd like to make some 1/4 mile passes with the truck, I'm not sure how long the rods will last on a 'max effort' tune. I'll milk the Allison on the mild tunes until we have time to get the trans out.