LLY: After Head Gasket Questions

jansenjos89

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Oct 19, 2014
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I just recently did head gaskets on my 05 lly at ~135,000 mi because i had a hard upper radiator hose along with puking coolant out the overflow anytime I filled it. I found the rear cylinder on the passenger side seemed to be the culprit (cyl #7).

I cleaned the block with a fine scotch-brite pad for the thick stuff and then wet sanded with wd-40 and 600 grit till everything felt nice and smooth. Heads went into a local shop and had 0.003" removed, also pressure tested good. I bought the seal/gasket kit from merchant, including the ARP studs, so pretty much every gasket was replaced. I also replaced valve stem seals while I had the heads torn down. While re-assembling the heads, I found and replaced a bent intake valve from the passenger side front cylinder (cyl #1) I couldn't see any other damage. I set valve lash to 0.011", manually turned over engine a couple revs and checked and reset if necessary, repeated that until all felt good. Every thing was cleaned and assembly seemed to go well. Cooling system was filled with straight water, ran for about an hour until good and warm, drained water and filled with 50/50. Drove around it around town (~30 mi) and changed the oil. Ran well, with no leaks. Drove it to work and back (120 mi) on Friday. It then sat overnight, noticed some coolant coming out of top radiator hose to radiator connection, tightened hose clamp. Saturday drove it to town on some errands (~20 mi) and got into the throttle hard for the first time. I got home and popped the hood to check things out. Noticed some coolant coming out the overflow, but no leaks anywhere else. Sunday morning the top radiator hose was hard again. didnt have time for anything else. Got back from a business trip Wednesday night and popped the coolant cap, there was still enough pressure in there to blow the cap off into my hand and spit coolant everywhere, even after sitting 4 days in 20-30 degree weather.

So my real question is where did I screw up? Did I miss something? I'm not sure where to even start looking right now.
 

jansenjos89

New member
Oct 19, 2014
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I used OEM Grade C gaskets. I torqued the heads per ARP's directions in a series of 45, 95, 135 Ft. Lbs just went through once each. Used a brand new snap-on clicker torque wrench.
 

clrussell

pro-procrastinator
Sep 23, 2013
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Egr cooler maybe? But I would think it would leak back after a while?
 

Dmax87

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Dec 3, 2013
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Kind of odd it stayed pressurized for 4 days, normally if it were a blown head gasket again I would think once shut off the coolant would drain back into the cylinder and would be hard starting/hydro locking. No smoke at start up? Maybe pull glow plugs and fire up after it sits for a bit and see if coolant comes running out or may be time for a compression check.
 

jansenjos89

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Oct 19, 2014
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Kind of odd it stayed pressurized for 4 days, normally if it were a blown head gasket again I would think once shut off the coolant would drain back into the cylinder and would be hard starting/hydro locking. No smoke at start up? Maybe pull glow plugs and fire up after it sits for a bit and see if coolant comes running out or may be time for a compression check.

I though it was odd too, however before I tore it apart the top radiator hose would be hard after sitting overnight. No smoke at start up. I will hopefully have time to pull glow plugs tonight and check. Maybe compression check also.
 

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
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Humm that's not what mine said, I did them about a year ago. I went to 125 three times before final tq down.
 

othrgrl

Diesel Addiction Owner
Mar 10, 2008
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A cap will only hold back 15 PSI of coolant system pressure. If a gasket is blown you have thousands of PSI of cylinder pressure pushing past it into the coolant system, but 15 PSI is not likely to be enough to push into the cylinder and leak down. On MLS gaskets you should always pull final torque on studs several times. We torque in 3 equal steps to 125, let them sit over night, torque 125 again, put everything else we can back on, then pull 125 torque again. If any move while pulling torque we end up letting it sit for a while and doing it again until they don't.
 

jansenjos89

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Oct 19, 2014
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A cap will only hold back 15 PSI of coolant system pressure. If a gasket is blown you have thousands of PSI of cylinder pressure pushing past it into the coolant system, but 15 PSI is not likely to be enough to push into the cylinder and leak down. On MLS gaskets you should always pull final torque on studs several times. We torque in 3 equal steps to 125, let them sit over night, torque 125 again, put everything else we can back on, then pull 125 torque again. If any move while pulling torque we end up letting it sit for a while and doing it again until they don't.

That is what I am afraid of. Do you think it is worthwhile to try and torque them again? Or pull everything and put another set of gaskets on?
 

thunder550

Active member
Apr 2, 2013
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A cap will only hold back 15 PSI of coolant system pressure. If a gasket is blown you have thousands of PSI of cylinder pressure pushing past it into the coolant system, but 15 PSI is not likely to be enough to push into the cylinder and leak down. On MLS gaskets you should always pull final torque on studs several times. We torque in 3 equal steps to 125, let them sit over night, torque 125 again, put everything else we can back on, then pull 125 torque again. If any move while pulling torque we end up letting it sit for a while and doing it again until they don't.

The only part I don't understand about this is that the ARP instructions don't say anything about this, and the factory gaskets are MLS. Wouldn't ARP have this written up if it was critical? Not saying it's bad, and it might be good practice, but I can't imagine ARP would have a deficiency in their instructions.
 

WolfLMM

Making Chips
Nov 21, 2006
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I've had great luck (only two trucks though!) torquing to 125 3 times. That means tq down and then back off. The stud actually stretches. This ensures you get the proper clamping force. Sorry about your troubles bud, but definitely replace the head gaskets.
 

othrgrl

Diesel Addiction Owner
Mar 10, 2008
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The only part I don't understand about this is that the ARP instructions don't say anything about this, and the factory gaskets are MLS. Wouldn't ARP have this written up if it was critical? Not saying it's bad, and it might be good practice, but I can't imagine ARP would have a deficiency in their instructions.

It's something I learned working on helicopter engines - any MLS or dead soft type of gasket got torqued multiple times until you couldn't get any more turn out of it before reaching your torque spec, then got safety wired so it couldn't back off. One of those things that's a "trick of the trade". In the automotive world, especially the performance side, there are a lot of instructions that don't spell things out - they expect people to be using/installing their products that have a good knowledge of how to do it. Head studs is not your average "I can change my own oil" kind of DIY project.