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[chevyburnout1]

So I've been a bit quiet on my build but I figured I'd finally start a build thread as I have a few questions to ask the professionals.

Last August after winning Truckfest I installed new injectors. After a few full throttle runs the truck started missing and smoking really bad. Compression on cylinder #8 dropped to 200psi. Assumed I bent some rods. Tore the engine down and found the only damage was both intake valves on the #8 got slightly bent. But either way it was my excuse to finally build.

So far it consists of:

• Cleaned/honed block with ARP head studs
• Line hone main's with ARP studs
• Heads completely rebuilt with SoCal valve springs
• De-lipping my stock pistons
• Carrillo connecting rods and completely balanced with SoCal balancer
• Keyway machined in crank and cam (if re-using my stock cam)
• Comp turbo CT6-94106 94mm 1.23a/r triple ceramic ball bearing turbo feeding a Comp turbo CT43-7279 72mm 1.15a/r, also ball bearing
• External gate
• Either 60% or 100% Exergy injectors
• LBZ injection pump in the valley twined with my stock LB7 pump with LBZ regulator

My goal is to daily drive 700hp, be able to crank it up on the dyno, make some exhibition runs at the sled pulls (turbo size pushes me out of basically all classes), and still be able to haul my camper/goosneck without too much issue. Lag has never really bothered me that much as long as they spool eventually. And I really have no goal for quarter mile times as this elevation sucks to race in period lol.

Now I have a few questions.

• My piston to wall clearances are about 4-5 thousands. I'm told spec is about 2-3 thousands, however that's for a stock rebuild. Will I be ok or do I need a bore?
  
• I've had two machine shops tell me I really don't need to hone with a torque plate as it's more so a 'luxury item' and the rings will break in just fine. The shop it's at now says that if I do use a torque plate more than likely I'll need to bore it out as well. Comments?
  
• Lag is no issue for me, however I don't want to be stuck on the upside of a hill with a trailer trying to spool. Would running my 1056 with the 1.15 a/r on the small turbo be too much? I'm trying to stick with this converter as it was just recently refreshed. Should I drop down to the .96/ar housing?
  
• Would a camshaft be worth it to help spool?
• Any other suggestions from the professionals?

I'm one of those types who try's to do as much work myself as I can and this'll be my first "performance" Dmax build. Just making sure I don't miss any other steps that will be needed.

I'm sure there are other things I forgot but here are a few pics at least:

 

[millerman04]

Likin the "Crown Royal" :roflmao: :roflmao:

 

[chevyburnout1]

That bottle was full when we started :beer2:

 

[dirty_max]

ummm... yea Im jealous. is that your shop?

 

[chevyburnout1]

It's at my parents house. Just sorta recently built. Where my dad and I like to hide out

 

[trevrosborough]

sub

 

[ikeG]

Cool deal, good luck. Dont hear much about the comp turbos.

 

[trailler2004]

jealous!!

 

[chevyburnout1]

Cool deal, good luck. Dont hear much about the comp turbos.

I was a little skeptical as well but figured I'd try something different. The kit was built by a member fatboylmm on here. The turbo's are definitely overkill for what I'm looking to do but figured overkill is better the first time around!

 

[millerman04]

That bottle was full when we started :beer2:

:thumb: SWEET!!

 

[DBUSHLB7]

Bout time you shared the build porn! Can't wait to race with you buddy. I've got money on that rig for Tuff Truck Challenge! Keep the thread updated:thumb:

 

[chevyburnout1]

I'm finally motivated again to get it finished so I'm trying my best to round up parts ASAP. Shooting for May 17th but I highly doubt it.

 

[chevyburnout1]

Sounds like the engine block and heads are about done. In the mean time I'm sending some stuff off to the powdercoaters to get all the green changed to that blue the oil filler neck is coated with.

 

[adeso]

I have 60 overs, and wish I had 100 overs. But you want to go with good 100 overs or so I have been told it makes a big difference tuning them

 

[chevyburnout1]

The injector bodies are brand new with about 3 miles on them but they have my old DDP 50hp nozzles installed. Was planning on sending the whole set out to Exergy and have them hone them out. I've been leaning a lot towards the 100% as well. Been doing a lot of reading and the "wish I had 100 overs instead" seems to be a common trend lol.

 

[adeso]

Also with that big external gate I would think you could run a tighter a/r on the HP turbo and get away with it. I don't know off the top of my head, but I would run a a/r that is just big enough to get enough power needed for that compressor size and have the gate dump there rest. so go tight on the HP turbo and have that gate open early and start getting that big LP turbo spooled up

 

[chevyburnout1]

That's what I was thinking. Comp Turbo's website shows a .96a/r available instead of the 1.15 Was debating on doing that but figured changing out that housing is a somewhat easy change even after everything is installed. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[delong_1]

i would not do 100% nozzles, i had some and they sucked up here. Truck always hazed at part throttle, sucked driving it in any kind of traffic.

 

[delong_1]

i also agree with going as small as possible on the turbine housing.

 

[chevyburnout1]

Delong, even with tuning or higher rail pressure you still had a bad problem with hazing? This'll be seeing a lot of street use and I would really like to keep the smoke to a minimum. I know this altitude in Colorado sucks regardless though.