?? about switching tunes during a run
- Thread starter TheBac
- Start date
If you want a good 60' time, you're going to have to use a tune with some power. Besides that, in order for a slick to set properly, it will need a fair amount of power off the line. How much it can handle will all depend on the track and tire as well as suspension setup and weight of the truck. I've made fuel only and nitrous passes spraying off the line in the van. There is usually very little if any difference in 60' between the two unless the track is crap. You're best bet in my opinion would be a progressive nitrous controller or maybe an external wastegate with a programmable boost controller. Get as much weight off the truck, and what you can't lose, move as far back as possible. That will give you your best chance at getting off the line.
Yes. Thinking ahead about the 1/2 ton.
All good points. Trust me, I learned a little about weight and suspension setup. But there's gotta be a way to do this. This forum is too smart not to have an idea or two.
There's no doubt there are plenty of smart guys here that can figure it out, but I think a progressive controller is a better option. If you're on the edge of losing traction already, you don't want to make a sudden jump to bigger power. The nice thing about progressive controllers is they can gradually bring in the power rather than doing it all at once. That's just my opinion on the subject though.
Progressive controller is what we are using in My race truck.
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I guess I will have to do more reading on progressives, then. I did not know you could use something like that for what Im asking. I figured they were more for outside fueling/air sources.
Tom ,
check out the progressive kit Nitrous express has. Its what I am using on my truck , it has a bunch of parameters to control when it comes on and you tell it how much % so not to have just off and full on
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/nxd40...-system-with-mini-progressive-controller.html
check out the progressive kit Nitrous express has. Its what I am using on my truck , it has a bunch of parameters to control when it comes on and you tell it how much % so not to have just off and full on
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/nxd40...-system-with-mini-progressive-controller.html
Yep, that type of controller is what Im after, but to use something like it to control the tuning itself.
i.e....get to a certain point in the run and have it switch over to the hot tune then or, come to think of it, have 5 progressive dsp5 tunes that it switches thru as mph/time increases until you hit #5.
I was just tossing out a weird idea. Could always install a steering wheel with a push button switch on it, too....
i.e....get to a certain point in the run and have it switch over to the hot tune then or, come to think of it, have 5 progressive dsp5 tunes that it switches thru as mph/time increases until you hit #5.
I was just tossing out a weird idea. Could always install a steering wheel with a push button switch on it, too....
Ben, you need to do a progressive dsp5 controller and hook it into the ABS system. If the ABS sees tire spin, then it backs the tune down, if no spin it keeps ramping the dsp up to max the HP out as per conditions.
The big no-prep/street comp cars run a form of traction control pulling or adding fuel/timing as needed.
Or like Tom posted, just load up a DSP2 tune with a button on the steering wheel. Mine is on the left in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWxA5cNXZes This track was very good and I could get into the big tune fast.
Now this example the track was not good and had to get out a ways before hitting the second stage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFMBaVOK0Mg
The big no-prep/street comp cars run a form of traction control pulling or adding fuel/timing as needed.
Or like Tom posted, just load up a DSP2 tune with a button on the steering wheel. Mine is on the left in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWxA5cNXZes This track was very good and I could get into the big tune fast.
Now this example the track was not good and had to get out a ways before hitting the second stage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFMBaVOK0Mg
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The BD controller works good on lightly built trucks but I have not had luck on my truck with it. I've tried the boost, rpm, and tps settings but no luck. This just limits staging, but launching HP.
I've tried every available limiter in EFI as far as ramping in HP and nothing has worked in my experience.
I've tried every available limiter in EFI as far as ramping in HP and nothing has worked in my experience.
Ben, you need to do a progressive dsp5 controller and hook it into the ABS system. If the ABS sees tire spin, then it backs the tune down, if no spin it keeps ramping the dsp up to max the HP out as per conditions.
The big no-prep/street comp cars run a form of traction control pulling or adding fuel/timing as needed.
Or like Tom posted, just load up a DSP2 tune with a button on the steering wheel. Mine is on the left in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWxA5cNXZes
Davis Technologies makes really nice traction control systems for racing. I bet they could come up with something that would work with a diesel.
Correct. Like you mentioned, it does nothing (related to its description) like a few other tables. Always wondered what they actually do..what their purpose is. Surely cant be put in there to do nothing.
Maybe they had plans to use it for something in the future, but then ended up going to the E35A controller?
Correct. Like you mentioned, it does nothing (related to its description) like a few other tables. Always wondered what they actually do..what their purpose is. Surely cant be put in there to do nothing.
Maybe they had plans to use it for something in the future, but then ended up going to the E35A controller?
Theres probably a switch somewhere else in the code that states determines "speed limiter source", or that otherwise activates/deactivates that table.
Or maybe its only used in limp mode, etc.
I never messed with it in 4wd low, maybe its only active in 4wd low or something.
Or maybe its something else altogether and has nothing to do with speed?
I have seen the table work before... I can't recall which OS, but if I remember correctly it ties to a limiter that most everyone max mm3 in with the tunes. So if it hits the restriction in that table, it pointed to another limiter.. However, if that limiter table is maxed out, then it will appear to not work.
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Well that could be very possible since i ALL RED EVERYTHING when i whip up da tuna lolol
You are correct! I have seen it work as well and have used it to accomplish specific things on a few tuned trucks .
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Subbed!!! Tom good job on getting the super brainiacs here cooking with gas :thumb:, oh or should I say diesel? :roflmao: but, REALLY, good idea Tom!!!
hm Ive tried it in many different configurations, even on a bone stock tune with no other limiters adjusted or maxed out. I never saw it work versus speed.
'1600 OS if I remember correctly. That was years ago though.
Max fuel injected quantity (cold) is yet another one on the E60.
But theres probably a "cold weather startup timer" table somewhere that makes that limiting table only active for a couple seconds or something, regardless of actual coolant temp.
GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
Tom,
Lb7's when converted to DSP5 always had DSP Staging available in the code.
They also have a DSP output which I used in my 2002 to control teh N20 when I ran it.
Both worked great on my 2002, my DSP output had a RED LED wired into the N20 in series so when the N20 solenoid relay grounded it lit the LED so I knew when the N20 was being activated.
Ross wrote that into the code probably 8 years ago and back in 2006-2007 I used it a lot on many of my customers builds to turn on lift pumps, etc.
Its not too difficult to set it up.
:thumb:
Lb7's when converted to DSP5 always had DSP Staging available in the code.
They also have a DSP output which I used in my 2002 to control teh N20 when I ran it.
Both worked great on my 2002, my DSP output had a RED LED wired into the N20 in series so when the N20 solenoid relay grounded it lit the LED so I knew when the N20 was being activated.
Ross wrote that into the code probably 8 years ago and back in 2006-2007 I used it a lot on many of my customers builds to turn on lift pumps, etc.
Its not too difficult to set it up.
:thumb: