A New best ever 12.042 @ 112.65
- Thread starter ZeroGravity58
- Start date
i drove my truck the other day and it was pulling really bad and the wheel was off....i think i bent the centerlink on it when i was racing. Gonna have to buy the straight one.
Nice job on the times!! If you want to keep the front tires planted a little better you can install some limiting straps on the front end to keep your nose level. I just used some fabtec limiting straps I had laying around the shop, but if you look in jegs or summit you can find them pretty cheap. It took my 60' times in my crew cab on street tires from 1.74's to 1.61's.
If you get the same benefit, it'll put you in the 11's easy!! :cool2:
If you get the same benefit, it'll put you in the 11's easy!! :cool2:
Why is it that people go back and forth on this so much - you see people say it helps then you see other people post that their truck was out of control and they almost hit the wall or that they broke a CV. Did it take much to get the length right or did you just jack the truck up to the highest you wanted it to go and make your mounts there with the strap tight? I don't know if I've ever read on someone making their limiting straps tight at ride height..... then you wouldn't have that jerk of it hitting the end of the leash :dontknow: Everytime I start considering limiting straps I read about some one's bad experience with it.
I would imagine that if you had a ton of slack in the strap, that could pose an issue. but I limit the strap to about 2" of travel. The way that I set the final height was by lowering my torsion bars all the way down which is where I like it for drag racing, then jacking up the front end untill the CV shafts are just a little past being level, then attaching the strap while tight.
I guess each truck may react differently, but I know that it helped my setup quite a bit, maybe if more people try it they can post up if they had luck with it or not.
Hope this helps,
Wade
Thanks for the info. I ride with my T-bars all the way down all the time. Sounds like I'll be adding limiting straps to my setup this winter and see how they do next year. I am already cutting 1.66 on BFG ATs and 1.59 on 28 x 11.5 MT cheaters and I'd like to see how much better I can get it to launch.
:joker:
I would have to agree, those 60' times are killer. I wouldn't change anything.
I changed my setup because I was unloading my front tires causing one to spin and the other to grab which can become a handful for the first 60' or more. Some people add a locker to cure the problem, which works. But at least for me it comes with the cost of sacrificing saftey. I went with the straps and it's helped me keep the tires planted and the truck under control while cutting better 60' times.
Maybe zerogravity can try the straps without the locker and see if the benefits are the same. If they are then you can save about $1000 on the locker and keep better control of your truck. Or maybe they don't work and they make things worse, but there is only one way to find out.
Just my .02
My front end comes up pretty hard and I'd like to either keep it down or at least slow down how fast it comes up with some really stiff rebounding shocks. I only use the locker racing if I'm at a track with bad prep and can't get it to hook - then I still spin but at least it pulls straight. The 1.59s that I've cut on the MTs was without the locker engaged. I guess I'll wait until I have enough power to make traction an issue for me again before I add anything to my current setup.
I added the locker because i was spinning one tire. I got a really good deal on a used one so i picked it up. I agree 100% the only way to see if it works it to try it. I found out for me that my truck hooks the best if i lower the driverside bar all the way down and leave 3 turns on the pass side bar. What kind of straps are you using?
I'm just using some fabtec straps that I had laying around the shop for our lifted LMM. But you can find nice limiting straps in jegs or summit racing catalogs. They come in a couple of different lengths and have steel brackets on each end. You just simple attach one to the frame and one to the A-Arm. I used studs with pins on each side so it was easy to install and uninstall when going to the track. It literally takes a couple seconds to do.