Same here other then my coolant is higher then that. I just replaced my tstats a few years ago due to low coolant temp though. I think I'm sitting around 200* now.
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A/C blows ice cold then just cool then ice cold again?
- Thread starter LBZ_Baker98
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Same here other then my coolant is higher then that. I just replaced my tstats a few years ago due to low coolant temp though. I think I'm sitting around 200* now.
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I see. I thought you meant normal driving/idling should see temps higher than 185. I've tried holding mine at 2,000 RPM to see how hot it gets.
Is that going off the gauge or a scan tool? I put new thermostats in mine a few years ago, but the temps are still what they were when I first installed them.
Both. Right after I did them I pick up 10*-15* and it seemed to help my mileage out some.
I did it more for my trips up north. It sucks when you're running down the freeway in the winter and the defrost isn't enough to keep ice off the windshield.
I miss read James last post. I'm not sure if my fan would lock up if reved it to 2k sitting in park. Other than that the only time it's locked up at Idle is when I have "morning sickness".
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I did it more for my trips up north. It sucks when you're running down the freeway in the winter and the defrost isn't enough to keep ice off the windshield.
I miss read James last post. I'm not sure if my fan would lock up if reved it to 2k sitting in park. Other than that the only time it's locked up at Idle is when I have "morning sickness".
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you usually dont get a "full lock up" but you get like a 50% load or so. its enough to pull air across the condenser and keep gauge readings accurate.
a non working fan clutch seriously plays havoc on an a/c system. when i swapped to the kodiak clutch, the a/c worked much better in traffic as the fan came on sooner/longer than the stock clutch. in a black truck thats been outside all day in 110+* heat, every little bit helps :roflmao:
a non working fan clutch seriously plays havoc on an a/c system. when i swapped to the kodiak clutch, the a/c worked much better in traffic as the fan came on sooner/longer than the stock clutch. in a black truck thats been outside all day in 110+* heat, every little bit helps :roflmao:
This may be stupid but my fan spins as soon as I start my truck and never stops. I always thought it was normal?
Does GM not have a specified amount/weight of refrigerant? The first thing they told us in A/C (Caterpillar) class was to forget about the gauges for cooling. Gauges are for showing restriction issues or to show if the system was cycling properly or not. Not questioning anyones methods, just curious if they have a weight recommendation or not.
Mine was acting up last year. Sitting in it eating lunch, AC running, ambient temp about 105*. It was blowing cold, then went hot real fast, stayed that way for a minute then went cold again. Kept repeating this every 5 mins or so. Mike used a SnapOn AC machine to pull it down and check for leaks, then recharged it. If I remember correctly, the system in our truck calls for 26 oz of 134....Mine was about 2 oz low. After the recharge, it blows ice cold all the time
I remember mine had a lbs requirement in the manual. I wanna say 1.74? Just replaced everything except my evaporator. Fresh oil and charge and it's so cold it blows frost sometimes :roflmao: gotta turn it down cause it'll freeze you out.
I can honestly say tho that I've never been in a vehicle that at idle the AC gets colder. It always gets warmer for me in all vehicles
I can honestly say tho that I've never been in a vehicle that at idle the AC gets colder. It always gets warmer for me in all vehicles
There is a sticker on the plastic cover by the hood latch that tells you how much weight the system takes.
My truck likes to have 2-3oz less than required. Gauges showed that by high high side pressure and high low side pressure. Pulled some out and it will freeze up the evap on blower speed 1 and 2 quickly when the humid months come. My tracker needs to be spot on or it causes the belt to squeak when the condenser heat soaks or if under filled it will get really warm at idle quickly. I also bypassed the thermistor in it as I could t get it in a good place on the evap that didn't make the compressor kick off too soon and start blowing warm air.
You can go by weight only but I like both cause I'll fine tune the system in. Its like setting up gears, you can go by factory specs and call it good but depending on what you do, you might benefit from setting the pinion abbot deeper into the ring gear or slightly less back lash.
My truck likes to have 2-3oz less than required. Gauges showed that by high high side pressure and high low side pressure. Pulled some out and it will freeze up the evap on blower speed 1 and 2 quickly when the humid months come. My tracker needs to be spot on or it causes the belt to squeak when the condenser heat soaks or if under filled it will get really warm at idle quickly. I also bypassed the thermistor in it as I could t get it in a good place on the evap that didn't make the compressor kick off too soon and start blowing warm air.
You can go by weight only but I like both cause I'll fine tune the system in. Its like setting up gears, you can go by factory specs and call it good but depending on what you do, you might benefit from setting the pinion abbot deeper into the ring gear or slightly less back lash.
My other vehicle 2013 Nissan Altima 3.5 V-6 was doing the same thing kinda, it would blow cold as long as you where moving, parked in the shade it still wasn't as cold as it was brand-new, parked in the shade with the hood open and again it still wasn't as cold as it was new. Took it back thinking Freon, Nope Compressor. Good Luck.
Same with my truck. Would get warm on long trips. Turn it off for a while and back on it'd be fine. But on my last trip I believe it froze up and fried my compressor.