A bunch of stock LB7 turbo questions

[McRat]

TTS makes an LB7 downpipe, or used to. I thought there was a shop up in the Pacific Northwest that did also, but don't remember.

What we found on the LBZ, was that a better downpipe would increase power in the higher RPM's, but had no real effect either way below 2800. If you are sled pulling, it makes sense, but drag racing, I doubt it, since moving up the shift points seldom makes an LB7 any quicker.

 

[TheBac]

TTS makes an LB7 downpipe, or used to. I thought there was a shop up in the Pacific Northwest that did also, but don't remember.

What we found on the LBZ, was that a better downpipe would increase power in the higher RPM's, but had no real effect either way below 2800. If you are sled pulling, it makes sense, but drag racing, I doubt it, since moving up the shift points seldom makes an LB7 any quicker.

Well, thats no help, as I vowed years ago to never run anything from that shop, no matter if it was the only one made.
Yeah, it limits things, but I do have a few principles I abide.

 

[dmaxvaz]

for some reason 58mm for the stock turbo comes to mind .

59.9mm inducer

 

[dmaxvaz]

With that odd-shaped flange, I dont know how we could enlarge the pipe coming out of the turbo.

tom- before you do anything to the turbo, do the intake horn and get some exhaust manifolds and up pipes from a 4500 chevy. i drove a 4500 and to me it seemed to spool faster than the pickup. also- if you want to make your own downpipe; i had laser cut flanges made for the back of the ihi turbo with 2 holes- one 3" hole turbine outlet and one 2.5" for the wastegate to connect it downstream more. i will pm my # if you want to discuss this. i imagine you could use the diamond eye downpipe for the lly's with this

 

[dmaxvaz]

1) I cant find any info on the stock LB7 charger. Can someone send me a link to specs, sizes of parts, etc?

2) Eric proposed to test a set of larger up-pipes on my truck this spring. Opinions on if these would be a help or hindrance? I tried finding info yea or nay the last few days, but only came away with one idea....that you have to match the up pipe size to the efficiency of the turbo and that too large an up-pipe could cause more lag and usability issues.
I dont know what to think.

3) In my searching, I found a shop that does porting and polishing of the insides of turbos. (name is Crucial Racing, but I guess there are many places that do this) They claim that doing a PnP greatly increases the efficiency and boost output. They also coat the exhaust housing with a thermal barrier coating. Is this BS or not? and if its not BS, is this something that could help the Dmax stock-turbo crowd?

4) I'm buying a modded inlet from SuperDiesel, as I think that it will greatly help my situation. I also like that idea that mytmouse had about removing that intake heater from teh intake tract (who knew we had one?).
Should I also be looking at the piping for my S&B intake, and reviewing how the air flows through that, too?


I'm just trying to get my ideas out of my jumbled brain, so if you can make sense of my ramblings, any help you can give me would be appreciated.

i bought a spare 01 lb7 motor the other day and stopped by toman's house, and we started talking about the y bridge on the lb7's and he showed me how huge the intake heater is. the thing is like 1 3/4" x 3/4" around and it blocks about 50% of intake flow. i am going to leave it for winter time, and then pull it out in the spring. also talked to him about modifying the y bridges again to a 3" tube from the 2 1/4" inlet, since there was people interested in them on here

 

[DuramaxPowered]

i bought a spare 01 lb7 motor the other day and stopped by toman's house, and we started talking about the y bridge on the lb7's and he showed me how huge the intake heater is. the thing is like 1 3/4" x 3/4" around and it blocks about 50% of intake flow. i am going to leave it for winter time, and then pull it out in the spring. also talked to him about modifying the y bridges again to a 3" tube from the 2 1/4" inlet, since there was people interested in them on here

DAMN vaz you're on top of it........I am really needing to play catch up!!!!!!

 

[super diesel]

On the LB7, the stock down pipe from the turbo at the flange (bottom) is only 2 5/8". The turbo back pipe (where the down pipe hooks up is 2 7/8"). This is the two areas that need to be addressed. You can remove the down pipe from the turbo (PITA) and make a mark about 1/4 way down. Measure from this point to the end of the flange and record it and the angles the flange is on. Cut the section off and take a 3" ID exahaust pipe and flatten one end to match the cut area. Slip it on and have it welded on. Also have the pipe cut off at the area where the flange goes and have a flange welded to it that matches the Dia of the stock V-band. Some good exhaust shops can slightly flare the stock down pipe (that goes to the rear of the truck) so a new piece doesn't have to be welded on at the area. The flange will need to be slightly trimed after this. Bolt em back up. More flow on the top end. Were probably talking marginal gains however.

 

[dmaxvaz]

DAMN vaz you're on top of it........I am really needing to play catch up!!!!!!

whats up buddy? never called me back- guess you got busy last night at work

 

[DuramaxPowered]

whats up buddy? never called me back- guess you got busy last night at work

Yeah, I got caught up and forgot to call ya.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

anyone else have stock IHI specs or part numbers?
ie: A/R inducer and exducer...... id go look but my truck isnt avalible to look at right now.

 

[slowlmm]

1) I cant find any info on the stock LB7 charger. Can someone send me a link to specs, sizes of parts, etc?

2) Eric proposed to test a set of larger up-pipes on my truck this spring. Opinions on if these would be a help or hindrance? I tried finding info yea or nay the last few days, but only came away with one idea....that you have to match the up pipe size to the efficiency of the turbo and that too large an up-pipe could cause more lag and usability issues.
I dont know what to think.

3) In my searching, I found a shop that does porting and polishing of the insides of turbos. (name is Crucial Racing, but I guess there are many places that do this) They claim that doing a PnP greatly increases the efficiency and boost output. They also coat the exhaust housing with a thermal barrier coating. Is this BS or not? and if its not BS, is this something that could help the Dmax stock-turbo crowd?

4) I'm buying a modded inlet from SuperDiesel, as I think that it will greatly help my situation. I also like that idea that mytmouse had about removing that intake heater from teh intake tract (who knew we had one?).
Should I also be looking at the piping for my S&B intake, and reviewing how the air flows through that, too?


I'm just trying to get my ideas out of my jumbled brain, so if you can make sense of my ramblings, any help you can give me would be appreciated.

if you port and plosihing coating it ect ect how is it really stock ? I think its cool tht you want to do it but imo once its modded from factory its not stock. jmo thoe good luck with every thing.

 

[othrgrl]

I agree with Adam that you should only take the up-pipes to the size of the manifold outlet and turbo pedistal inlet. Getting rid of the kinks and bumping the size that little bit helps flow without creating alot more volume between the motor and turbo. I have the full set of headers and up-pipes but I would only recommend the up-pipes and a BD manifold for most people, or the 4500 stuff. We installed a set of up-pipes on Jonathan Casey's truck a few months after the 4088 and he says it spools alot faster and feels like we swapped turbos - he also gets more boost at a given RPM than he used to.

Intake horn should help and removing the intake heater can't hurt. If you want to go further P&P the intake Y bridge and manifolds, turbo, and exhaust manifolds - on a budget get out the Dremel.:rofl: IMO P&P or coating don't take away from it being stock, IMO if you change or modify/change either of the wheels or the cartridge is when it is no longer a stock turbo. Just my opinion though.

At $671 I don't think the TTS downpipe is worth the gain you would see, especially since you can't use it on any other turbo.

 

[TheBac]

tom- before you do anything to the turbo, do the intake horn and get some exhaust manifolds and up pipes from a 4500 chevy. i drove a 4500 and to me it seemed to spool faster than the pickup. also- if you want to make your own downpipe; i had laser cut flanges made for the back of the ihi turbo with 2 holes- one 3" hole turbine outlet and one 2.5" for the wastegate to connect it downstream more. i will pm my # if you want to discuss this. i imagine you could use the diamond eye downpipe for the lly's with this

Ive read about the Kodiak pipes over at the Place. Didnt know they were interchangable. Also saw that Burkhardt was selling complete sets, but I missed out. (first the LBZ regulators, now this...damn) Will definitely look into it. Tony says that the Kodiak manifolds are the same as ours, with the drivers side looking like a BD manifold. Also, he says that the downpipe needs to be "modified" to fit the pass pipe in....so your flange idea may work hand-in-hand with this.

As for the flange, I'll call you. Sounds interesting, have you already added the Vband too? What wastegate is it meant for? Just have to keep costs in mind.

i bought a spare 01 lb7 motor the other day and stopped by toman's house, and we started talking about the y bridge on the lb7's and he showed me how huge the intake heater is. the thing is like 1 3/4" x 3/4" around and it blocks about 50% of intake flow. i am going to leave it for winter time, and then pull it out in the spring. also talked to him about modifying the y bridges again to a 3" tube from the 2 1/4" inlet, since there was people interested in them on here

Im going to stay with factory Y bridge, but take the heater out. Mtymouse told me he has a plug all set for it.

if you port and plosihing coating it ect ect how is it really stock ? I think its cool tht you want to do it but imo once its modded from factory its not stock. jmo thoe good luck with every thing.

IMO, its more of "optimizing what I have", not changing it. A Cheetah is changing things. "Stock appearing" is not stock.

 

[dmaxvaz]

Ive read about the Kodiak pipes over at the Place. Didnt know they were interchangable. Also saw that Burkhardt was selling complete sets, but I missed out. (first the LBZ regulators, now this...damn) Will definitely look into it. Tony says that the Kodiak manifolds are the same as ours, with the drivers side looking like a BD manifold. Also, he says that the downpipe needs to be "modified" to fit the pass pipe in....so your flange idea may work hand-in-hand with this.

As for the flange, I'll call you. Sounds interesting, have you already added the Vband too? What wastegate is it meant for? Just have to keep costs in mind.



Im going to stay with factory Y bridge, but take the heater out. Mtymouse told me he has a plug all set for it.



IMO, its more of "optimizing what I have", not changing it. A Cheetah is changing things. "Stock appearing" is not stock.

the flange has 2 holes in it, a 3 inch one for the turbine outlet, and the other is for the factory wastegate to dump into the downpipe further down the pipe, not in the same chamber as the outlet; like the factory one does causing a little turbulance coming out the pipe. i have a pic on my phone if you want me to send it to you. it doesnt have a v band on it because i had these made for my twin setups, but the v band flange can be welded to it if you like. this flange of mine came to mind when people mentioned the tts downpipe. this setup could be made for less than $200 .

 

[Noreaster]

I was thinking a plate on the the back of the turbo with a V-band.

 

[McRat]

I was thinking a plate on the the back of the turbo with a V-band.

That's a great idea, you could make it accept the Diamond Eye pipe, or any other off-the-shelf downpipe.

 

[TheBac]

That's a great idea, you could make it accept the Diamond Eye pipe, or any other off-the-shelf downpipe.

Exactly. I looked at Diamond Eye's site, but they dont list a price for the downpipe. Anyone know what they cost?


This is getting kind of fun, brainstorming all this. Thanks guys.

 

[Noreaster]

$2xx I think

 

[dmaxvaz]

that's a great idea, you could make it accept the diamond eye pipe, or any other off-the-shelf downpipe.

i have 5 of those plates made, if anybody needs one

 

[2500HeavyDuty]

i have 5 of those plates made, if anybody needs one

plate?