99 Cummins (i dont wanna ask on DP lol)

[s3gulit]

Recently, a nice, non rusted 99 x-cab 3500 cummins has come up for sale.

Has 108,000miles, 5spd manual, power everything.

Guy is asking 9750, i think i could talk him down to 8500-9000 cash, has garbage banks crap on it currently (exhaust and intake elbow). I know the pumps are a grenade waiting to go off after 100K miles but i was curious if anyone had other things to look for?

Looking for it as a new farm truck to pull a large bumper bull, possibly gooseneck grain trailer, etc. usual fully equipped farm truck. Price is right, not beatup or rusted, overall a 8-9 out of 10.

Don't know much about the 5.9's, im assuming it's a 24v...not really fluent in dodge/cummins. Neighbor has one and its been a good farm truck for his operation. I'd like to start doing more go-fast mods to the dmax and retire it from excessive farm use

If anyone has some input id appreciate it, i plan to do some late night reading up before i talk about going to look at it in person (just a little over 400miles away).

Thanks,
Dave

 

[GeneralTJI]

A good lift pump seems to help the life of the vp44, I would start there...

The 6 speed manuals are better than the 5's, but I think the 5 speeds are fairly tough? (and tougher than a 47re!!)

If it's a 99 then it's a 24v yes.

Sounds like a pretty solid truck, see what you can talk him down too!

 

[JoshH]

x2 to what General said. As long as you keep lift pump pressure to the injection pump, they typically don't have a lot of problems. Other than that, the trucks don't have a lot of mechanical problems. Most of the problems are little things like leaks or sensors and electronic gremlins. If you run much power through it, you will want to think about upgrading the clutch. Also, there is nothing wrong with Banks other than the price. They actually make really good quality products. It's a bonus if it has those things on it already.

I'm assuming it is a 4wd? As long as there aren't any hidden issues, it sounds like a really good buy.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Keep in mind that a 99 24 valve will have a 053 block unless it has been changed out already. The 053 block's had a high rate of cracking through one of the rear freeze plug holes. Many say this applies to mostly modded trucks though. The VP44 pump isn't that bad of a pump, but it MUST have a good steady supply of fuel to it(15PSI is reccomended). Put on a good lift pump and a warning light to tell you when fuel pressure drops. ANd be prepared to do the 5th gear nut update on it if your gonna work it. Not an expensive fix, but mostly annoying to lose 5th gear. And ball joints in the front ends on those around 80K on were fairly common as many weren't greased from the factory properly and DODGE saw fit to not put zerks on the late models.

 

[MACKIN]

Ya that's the biggest issue the 053 stamped blocks cracking. The guy here that works for me has one and sure enough it had a crack in it.I think the are or were made in Brazil.

BUT Cummins warranted it . I think it was like 4 years ago and he had over 100K on it also. Just over the factory warranty 105K if I recall so Dodge wanted to know nothing said he was shit out of luck.

It did cost him $4500 for labor and fluid . But that was cheap in reality. Just look on the block for the casting number not all of them in 98-early 2001 I recall had 053 blocks in them.

The only other thing is Torque Converters are weak in them and the other thing if I recall is a dowel pin issue on the cam gear ???? I don't really remember. But something on those lines

 

[poweredmotives]

Dowel pins on the Cam Gear are 12V problems.

 

[MACKIN]

Dowel pins on the Cam Gear are 12V problems.

Oh I remember reading something about that,oops. The killer dowel pin

 

[Big Block 88]

The NV4500 5 spd's are fairly stout but they will start snapping input shafts with added power and abuse. The 24v trucks are pretty darn stout we had a 98.5 and a 2000 1 ton about ten years ago and I never really remember much down time. The 4x4 2000 had some front end issue like (death wobble and hub breakage) we never had a VP44 go out in the 130K we owned it but our trucks are maintained pretty darn good.

The biggest and only complaint I ever had about our Dodge's was going down dirt road I felt like I was sitting inside a baby's rattle. that cab had more rattles squeeks creeks and growls than I even knew exsisted. Other than that they are very good trucks

 

[dmaxvaz]

recently, a nice, non rusted 99 x-cab 3500 cummins has come up for sale.

Has 108,000miles, 5spd manual, power everything.

Guy is asking 9750, i think i could talk him down to 8500-9000 cash, has garbage banks crap on it currently (exhaust and intake elbow). i know the pumps are a grenade waiting to go off after 100k miles but i was curious if anyone had other things to look for?

Looking for it as a new farm truck to pull a large bumper bull, possibly gooseneck grain trailer, etc. Usual fully equipped farm truck. Price is right, not beatup or rusted, overall a 8-9 out of 10.

Don't know much about the 5.9's, im assuming it's a 24v...not really fluent in dodge/cummins. Neighbor has one and its been a good farm truck for his operation. I'd like to start doing more go-fast mods to the dmax and retire it from excessive farm use

if anyone has some input id appreciate it, i plan to do some late night reading up before i talk about going to look at it in person (just a little over 400miles away).

Thanks,
dave

why is banks exhaust and intake stuff garbage? They make the best fitting exhausts and very good intake kits

 

[coker6303]

The NV4500 in the dodges were notorious for backing the nut off the main shaft and dropping 5th gear. The threads were not all the way to the end like the NV4500 on the GM trucks.

That would be a great farm truck with a good lift pump and mild tune. Very reliable. But you know you'll have no dash at all when it all falls through! lol!

I would slap a PSI gauge on the supply line from the tank to see how the current lift pump is doing. See what it is at idle and what it does under accelleration. If it's weak, plan for an injection pump because they cavitate easily if they don't have more supply than they need.

 

[Colt]

Tack weld the 5 gr. nut to make sure it's not about off now. Carter lift pump {new{ and what a deal if it's that good of shape for a farm truck look at all the farmers who have them still with 3-400k mi.

 

[Vasbinder]

I welded my fifth gear nut back on and no problem since then. If the fifth gear fails you can still drive it with out a problem. Put on a good lift pump and a gauge

 

[maine04max]

the track bars are a bad design too. when I bought my 02 and drove it home I damn near lost it with the DEATH WOBLE , I've never had a truck do that to me . we installed a Lukes link (spelling ?)on the drivers side of the track bar and it hasn't given me another fit in 8000 miles

 

[JD4440]

I just sold a FASS replacement lift pump fpr a 99. I think that's a good option, only a few $$ more for 38% more flow than OE I think.

 

[BombDocDiesel]

Something to look for, check for a big line kit on the factory lift pump. The Carter campaign pumps have 1/2" lines and you will notice the size. That is usually an indicator that the VP44 might make it a while. Not a fail-safe but good to look for.

Go with an AirDog or some other filter/pump set-up if you get it. The factory piece is a turd!! Trust me I got up and had 5 PSI one morning. The whole filter/housing/lift pump can be removed and tossed then. A SBC fuel pump block-off will clean up the hole you leave. Make sure you have a fuel pressure gauge and always pay attention that you give the VP plenty of fuel. Mine has 136K on it and pushes bigger injectors and a 4K tune no problem.

Not all 99s are 53 blocks. Look at the Crank case vent cover and you will see the engine serial number. If it starts with a 53 you might want to walk. You might get lucky and see a 56 with is the probably the best one. Not all 53s crack but a lot do.

The 4500 is a great transmission. The 5th gear nut is a quick fix to pull the tail housing and weld the nut to shaft. The clutch won't take much over stock. Mine was basically powder when I pulled it to put the Allison in.

The killer dowel pin does effect the 24v trucks. It's an easy fix.

That Banks exhaust and intake elbow are just fine. I would leave them alone.

The front end will probably need some work. Most of those trucks are real PITA when the ball joints and track bar go. It's a chore to replace the ball joints but there are several options on the track bar.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

The front end will probably need some work. Most of those trucks are real PITA when the ball joints and track bar go. It's a chore to replace the ball joints but there are several options on the track bar.

I always liked working on em, but then again I was at a dealership with a lift and a ball joint press. I always did them on the bench though myself. Just seperate the ball joints at the housing and take it over to a bench and do em both.

 

[BombDocDiesel]

I always liked working on em, but then again I was at a dealership with a lift and a ball joint press. I always did them on the bench though myself. Just seperate the ball joints at the housing and take it over to a bench and do em both.

That would be nice.

 

[CamaroZ]

I always liked working on em, but then again I was at a dealership with a lift and a ball joint press. I always did them on the bench though myself. Just seperate the ball joints at the housing and take it over to a bench and do em both.

That's the best way to do em' :thumb: Don't be too afraid of the 053 block usually it will be cracked by now if its a defect usually. There's a few guys making decent power on them with no issues. I wished my 97 12 Valve was a 5spd everyday when I had it :baby:

 

[MACKIN]

The NV4500 in the dodges were notorious for backing the nut off the main shaft and dropping 5th gear. The threads were not all the way to the end like the NV4500 on the GM trucks.

That would be a great farm truck with a good lift pump and mild tune. Very reliable. But you know you'll have no dash at all when it all falls through! lol!

I would slap a PSI gauge on the supply line from the tank to see how the current lift pump is doing. See what it is at idle and what it does under accelleration. If it's weak, plan for an injection pump because they cavitate easily if they don't have more supply than they need.

So true my friends has more squeaks rattles it sounds inside like it's falling apart.

But it does run decent but straight piped it's obnoxiously loud.

That's the best way to do em' :thumb: Don't be too afraid of the 053 block usually it will be cracked by now if its a defect usually. There's a few guys making decent power on them with no issues. I wished my 97 12 Valve was a 5spd everyday when I had it :baby:

Although true about the 053 block some don't even realize they are cracked. My friend didn't know until we crawled under it to see if it was a 053 block and sure enough we seen a trickle of antifreeze.Maybe it just happened nonetheless he had no significant coolant lose to be alarmed about. It bears a investigation before the purchase. Not ALL 053 blocks crack,it was a casting issue where some were thin and cracked.

If it were me I'd check it out good. There are cheap fixes out there. Some have welded it IIR. Nothing a lil JP weld wont fix. :rofl:

 

[JD4440]

The killer dowel pin does effect the 24v trucks. It's an easy fix.

Might get with you on that. I have a 95 that needs to be done.