went to scan the damn thing and it wont read must have a bad fuse for the obd2 or something will try and look in the day light im thinking a .45 might fix this truck or atleast make me feel better
Help: 8.1l problem
- Thread starter ChevyTruckGuy78
- Start date
ok had a p101 maf code so i had a friend at a parts store swapped it out and still runs teh same didnt have a scanner avail to check for missfires though
My 2001 2500HD 8.1 would do this. It drove me nuts scanned it always read fine even fuel pressure. I replaced the rotor cap button and plugs and also replaced the cheap ass thin plug wired that are on the truck. I got the fuel pump cheap from one of my WS so I replaced it anyways and they gave a new harness along with it. Truck ran fine for alittle then coughed alittle Ireplaced the last thing that I did not do the darn coil packs seems that was the issue the time that and the wires were.The 8.1 goes thru plugs fast in the winter if you run cheap gas plowing atleast mine did.
There is a bulletin about the wire harness but its mostly for the 4.8 and 5.3. You have to replace the coil pack wire harnesses. The mass air flow code would suggest false air in the system, vacuum leak, intake leak, we just had one in the shop where the big resonator tank thats hangs off the intake tube was missing!? if you don't have a tune in it get it reflashed at Orilleys with all the latest updates, all you have to do is carry them the pcm and the vin number. Alot cheaper then the dealer.
I'm talking about the harness on the fuel pump they replace it when you install the new fuel pump. The wiring gets all messed up and losses ground from time to time.
plugs are delco plat its in intermittent problem and if i strrat hammerin on the truck it goes away and there is no oreilys around here that i know of
Do you have efi live if you do you can set the pids and use it to scan and read everything also.
Ok, I hate that one. We get one on every pump we install from 96'-03' chevy gmc trucks. It's fun to try and match up sometimes when they change the wire color:thumb:. It gets loose and warps the connector. It can cause an intermitant fault as well. i still say look for false air with a mass air flow code, it can lean one out in a hurry, we use propane to check around the plastic intake since you can't hear them anymore because of the plastic.
i looked for false air and cant find nothing seems my intake manifild is cast and i dont have a smoker to see if there are any leaks i did get a flashing cec on the way home today and a buddy is bringin a scanner so i can check the code if was screwy cuz it was flashin while i was on it i let off and drove it normal and the flashin light shut right off not just stop flashin and stay on constant which they usually do
Hell I had one issue that bugged the heck out of me. Truck would have power out the ass then would not. Aldo come to a red light or stop sing and it would shut off. Turned out being the cam sensor that goes in from the top at the back of the block. It would make tge volt meter jump and all on the dash along with cel light and fuel gauge up and down.
Truck would also use alot of oil. Dealer changed and checked leaves as I came in and saw how much my 8.1 was using. They replaced the intake gaskets along with a updated part number on the intake bolts. Also found that the 8.1 used less oil when I ran Kendeal.
Truck would also use alot of oil. Dealer changed and checked leaves as I came in and saw how much my 8.1 was using. They replaced the intake gaskets along with a updated part number on the intake bolts. Also found that the 8.1 used less oil when I ran Kendeal.
i do go through alot of oil like 2 qts plowing i do smell it out the exhaust i was hingking intake gaskets too
ok hard code of p0101 maf performance and intermittent codes of p0154 o2 sensor no activity b2s1 intermittent p0300 mult miss intermittent p0332 knock sensor 2 b2 intermittent
ok so i also cleared teh codes to see what comes back to see if anythgin is an old code that dosent spply to this problem but i dont remember any codes in there last time i checked for my fuel level issue
Learn to spell!!!!!!!!!! My 3 year old niece writes better than you! :rofl:
You replaced the Crank Positioning Sensor or CPS not the cam sensor. Cam sensor is in front. Yes that CPS is a PITA to change too. Least mine was. It is a VERY common problem on the 01-02 and there was a new style issued for those years.
The BB is going to use only regardless. Every BBC Ive ever seen does. I used to use 2 qts or more every 3K miles. If you use synthetic this also makes it use more. I have been running 10W-30 for years now and its better. I also dont fill it up to fill line....slightly below. Ive heard many reasons on why they use oil but one seems to make more sense than others and that is because the heat of the pistons evaporates a little bit of it. Not sure how to prove that but take it for what its worth.
Your last 2 codes are a result of your first 2 codes. Check and see if the O2 sensor is plugged in. Same with MAF sensor. It doesnt mean that either one of those is bad. Ive had 2 plug wires reversed before on a 4.3L and it threw a MAF sensor code also. This leads me to believe it could be tied to timing and therefore would eventually lead to CPS. If it hasnt been changed I guarantee it needs it...whether its related to this or not it WILL need to be replaced. These can and can not set CEL codes. Mine didnt. My symptoms were hard starting, dieing when driving, and low power among other things.
Also if your O2 sensor is not working that would set off MAF code also (correct me if Im wrong someone). So make sure you check that complete circuit and make sure no wires are burnt on exhaust or anything. How many miles on this? I have 120K with OEM O2's for reference.
Then lastly make sure all of your plug wires are good. These are VERY FRAGILE inside and break VERY easily. I barely bent mine when I first got the truck while I was changing plugs and it ran like shit until I figured out it was those. They are not cheap at all. I got MSD ones now and were like $130 at Jegs. I was going to get the LSx motor ones but were 1" too short. They were alot cheaper too. Only use Delco plugs OEM. Nothing else works. Gap em at .045".
crank sensor wasnt replaced. truck has 86k umm i hate spelling never good at it. plugs are new and gapped to .045 i did try a maf and that didnt do anythign havent checked 02 sensor wires could have broken with plowing i got stuck on a few snow banks. i run 10-40w semi synthetic 10-30 just seeemed too low of oil pressure below 20psi i was thinkin it was a possible intake manifold leak but i have been out of diag so long i forgot so much of it since i got out of it
Intake leak is easy. Run the motor and spray ether or carb cleaner around intake (make sure motor is not super hot). Listen to idle fluctuations. I doubt its this as they usually run rough at idle with leaks.
Oil pressure was below 20 at idle? While this is still within spec it is kinda low for using 10W-30. Rule of thumb Ive heard is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. Im usually at 25-30psi idle and 40-50psi cruising at operating temps.
Id check out that O2 sensor circuit first. Let us know.
Oil pressure was below 20 at idle? While this is still within spec it is kinda low for using 10W-30. Rule of thumb Ive heard is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. Im usually at 25-30psi idle and 40-50psi cruising at operating temps.
Id check out that O2 sensor circuit first. Let us know.