Hey guys, I am a long time lurker on here but rarely post. I just bought a 4094 for my truck and will be installing it shortly. I was wondering if anyone has some tips for a first timer like myself (swapping turbos not wrenching in general) and possibly a list of other parts that should be installed or needed for install. I currently have an egr blocker plate and plan to do the full delete but im not sure what else if anything should be done. Thanks in advance!
4094 Install
- Thread starter silverking
- Start date
Getting the heat shield off is probably the biggest PITA of the whole job if you've never removed one before.
Get the bolts out and bend the shield into the shape of an "M" and it'll come out, throw that bitch away! Lol
I don't remember if you have to, but I'm pretty sure the transmission dipstick tube has to come out to get a stock downpipe out, so pull that and remove the downpipe.
You don't have to completely remove the uppipes, just loosen the bolts at the manifolds and pull the bolts at the turbo pedestal, this will allow enough wiggle room to let the turbo oil return line sneak by the flanges on the up-pipes
Make sure to inspect the soft lines and also be sure to get new banjo washers for the coolant and oil lines that connect to the turbo.
You'll need an 8"-12" extension and a probably a breaker bar on the 17mm bolts that hold the turbo down, there are three total, two on the drivers side of the pedestal (one turbine side and one compressor side) and one on the passenger side of the pedestal, compressor side.
Once everything is free from the turbo it just comes out the top
It's a perfect time to install a turbo blanket from Levi @ turboperformance and downpipe and a hot side pipe and better boots!
Not a bad time to install an upgraded Y-bridge either...since you say you're planning on a full EGR delete to boot
Other than that stuff, I can't think of anything right off the top of my head that kinda goes along with a turbo install, maybe new gaskets for the up-pipe to turbo connection
There's a thread I started a while back called "just three bolts"
In that thread there is fairly extensive explanation of how to remove a turbo and the Y-Bridge. Back then I didn't even know how to remove a turbo and now with the way my stuff is set up I can get it out in less than an hour
Lol
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It'd be a good time to do a PCV re-route, and intake resonator delete/plug if you've not done one already.
For the "best" PCV re-route solution, have a bung welded into the downpipe about 6-8" after the bend and attach a nipple at a 45* angle back, then hook your re-route hose into that.
Re-routing the PCV into the downpipe will eliminate any smell during idle time and oil spots where you park and down the underside of the chassis that inherently occur with a normal PCV re-route.
:thumb:
For the "best" PCV re-route solution, have a bung welded into the downpipe about 6-8" after the bend and attach a nipple at a 45* angle back, then hook your re-route hose into that.
Re-routing the PCV into the downpipe will eliminate any smell during idle time and oil spots where you park and down the underside of the chassis that inherently occur with a normal PCV re-route.
:thumb:
^^^ this
I used a 17 mm flex socket ( socket with a built in universal joint) to get to the pedestal bolts. Flex head ratchets are your friend removing the up pipe bolts.
I used a 17 mm flex socket ( socket with a built in universal joint) to get to the pedestal bolts. Flex head ratchets are your friend removing the up pipe bolts.
12pt 12mm socket for the up pipe bolts, heat shields bolts are 10mm
Wild guess you already have a egt mounted..
I did this to mine when I had it out for head gasket work 2" x3/8" plate and a sanding flapper wheel then welded it
Wild guess you already have a egt mounted..
I did this to mine when I had it out for head gasket work 2" x3/8" plate and a sanding flapper wheel then welded it
That isn't really an ideal place for an egt probe. Not the most accurate since there isn't a good flow over the probe.
+/-50° isn't going to hurt for what I do. I'm more worried about heat soak..
Where I got the idea from
http://dirtyhookerdiesel.com/i-1490...pipe-with-egt-sensor-duramax-diesel-6-6l.html
Where I got the idea from
http://dirtyhookerdiesel.com/i-1490...pipe-with-egt-sensor-duramax-diesel-6-6l.html
The dhd one will actually put the egt probe in contact with exhaust flow, your probe looks like it is recessed to far to be accurate. Im betting you will see far more than a 50* difference.
Thanks guys for the help. I already have egt and downpipe as well. I do need to do PCV while its open.
Forgot to ask before but I figured you guys would know. I bought the cast wheel, should I upgrade to the billet before install or is it not worth the 400 dollars for the gains? I know they can be laggy will the wheel help that or is it more on tuning? I will use Kory again if he has good tunes for it.
What are your goals? I don't think you can swap wheels once installed so you'd have to pull it to install a billet wheel later if you decided.
i ran a 4094 on my stock fuel lbz with the cast comp wheel. i wouldnt bother with the billet wheel it spooled just fine.
I will give you less responsive.. Less temp maybe on a 10-15sec run but not on a 10-15 minute pull up a grade or rolling for hours on end
I was asking to see if you guys recommend the wheel before I install the turbo. I honestly dont think I will need it for what I am trying to accomplish but id hate to install the turbo then wish I had it. Who's tuning were you guys running?
I had the billet wheel in mine but never ran it with the cast so I can't compare. When i ordered the turbo Mark told me the wheel was well worth it and plus he had a used turbo. So I got the turbo with the billet wheel for less than the cast.
are you planning on building the motor? i use idaho rob for tuning. i dont see the point of a billet wheel upgrade on a stock motor truck. maybe if you wanted every last ounce out of it on a built motor other than that i dont see the benefit.
No, I just want a little more power and some sweet music to be honest. I appreciate your replies and will just stay with the cast wheel. I have used atp tunes on a couple of my trucks in the past. I can update my tunes for pretty cheap from PPEI so I think ill give them a try first and if Im not satisfied Ill go back to Rob's. How did you like the 4094 overall? Also do you guys know the part numbers for the gaskets I need for install? Thanks again!
i really liked the 4094 it spooled pretty good and towed like a beast. it has a little lag but makes up for it with a great topend pull that doesnt quit. i reused all my gaskets except the oil feed and return and i cleaned and sprayed the uppipe gaskets with coppercoat rtv. oh and this turbo sounds wicked, about 1500 rpms this thing really whistles.