Hi all, I'm looking at a 2012 Duramax and was wondering because I'm going to be converting from leaf springs to a 4 link system for the rear axle how would I go about lifting it? It already has a 4 inch lift and I'm thinking about going to a 6 inch lift but from what I've heard a link style system has better axle control and can improve the ride quality. Any advice I can get will help a lot because I am stumped on this. Thanks in advance.
4 link rear end conversion and lift kit
- Thread starter Powellbr
- Start date
Are you wanting air ride in the rear or you planning on running coil spring/coilovers? What are you planning on doing with the truck?
https://kelderman.com/shop/2011-gm-2500-3500-4x4-6-8-rear-air-suspension
https://kelderman.com/shop/2011-gm-2500-3500-4x4-6-8-rear-air-suspension
I'm gonna be going with coilovers with the possibility of air bags helping to control ride height when I'm hauling a load or towing a large trailer, it's gonna be a dd with some track time and some offroad time
wubba lubba dub dub
I'm a huge fan of 4 links but I was big into off-roading 2.5tons and R2 tractor tires. If you're going to be budget less go with the kelderman air ride system. By the time you build the 4 link and pay for coil overs you'll be close to the cost of the air ride anyway and than you get to hit a button and up and down and up he goin
you have a few things fighting you.
one is the fuel tank. so a typical 4 link wont work without moving the fuel tank. second will be the air bags and coilovers. the air bags will over come what ever valving is in your coilovers and make for a uncontrolled ride when towing. that means you need adjustable coilovers. problem there is you can not adjust rebound unless you buy a set of qa1's or viking shocks which wont hold up to off road heat well.
you can go with a parallel 4 link but that will eat its self alive off road. a parallel 3 link and panhard bar is a better way to go or a 3 link with a triangulated upper link that is parallel to the fuel tank while the other bar coming in is angled.
the only way to have your cake and eat it too is just running air bags only in the back with a set of adjustable shocks like bypasses or viking/qa1. then you have the work of figuring out what air bags you can use on the back to get you enough suspension travel, not be too high a spring rate at 20psi, and fit under the truck.
not even by a looooooong shot! you can build a linked system for 1500+ LESS than that kilderman kit.
Not with adding coil overs last set of coil overs I got was close to $1300 and I'm assuming he isn't the one going to be doing the work.
Edit I read your comment wrong. And after looking at that kelderman kit it would be a good bit more because the kit doesn't include the air controller and other items.
Edit I read your comment wrong. And after looking at that kelderman kit it would be a good bit more because the kit doesn't include the air controller and other items.
what your not thinking about is the used market as well
. He also never said he was paying someone that was building his 4 link on his moab rig. but lets add this up. a set of brackets and heims from ruff stuff is 700-800 bucks depending on options and not using a discount code. then 1300 for shocks and springs with dual rate kit he will need, again at new price but those are most likely 2.0's so lets step up to 2.5's which will be 1700 after springs and dual rate kit with resi assuming at min a 14" stroke shock.
all you need is tube which .250 wall DOM 2" OD tube runs me about 200 bucks a 20ft stick. so we will say 30ft to be on the safe side and allow a screw up so 300 total.
So even if you buy everything brand new and at retail pricing, you are 1000+ under the kilderman kit + shipping. all my prices including shipping above.
you get a discount from ruff stuff on certain promotions and 20% off isnt unheard of, shocks used and in good condition can be had for half or more than i stated and so on. im 3 linking the back of my tracker and have 1500 into it including shocks, springs, links, heims, bolts, rear axle, 5.13 gears, locker, truss, and plating. didnt hunt for these parts for more than 4 days to find them used and shipped to me to keep cost down. all new, like new, or in great shape as well.
what your not thinking about is the used market as well
but lets add this up. a set of brackets and heims from ruff stuff is 700-800 bucks depending on options and not using a discount code. then 1300 for shocks and springs with dual rate kit he will need, again at new price but those are most likely 2.0's so lets step up to 2.5's which will be 1700 after springs and dual rate kit with resi assuming at min a 14" stroke shock.
all you need is tube which .250 wall DOM 2" OD tube runs me about 200 bucks a 20ft stick. so we will say 30ft to be on the safe side and allow a screw up so 300 total.
So even if you buy everything brand new and at retail pricing, you are 1000+ under the kilderman kit + shipping. all my prices including shipping above.
you get a discount from ruff stuff on certain promotions and 20% off isnt unheard of, shocks used and in good condition can be had for half or more than i stated and so on. im 3 linking the back of my tracker and have 1500 into it including shocks, springs, links, heims, bolts, rear axle, 5.13 gears, locker, truss, and plating. didnt hunt for these parts for more than 4 days to find them used and shipped to me to keep cost down. all new, like new, or in great shape as well.
I been out the game for a few years too haha
Haha I had edited it before I saw you repost maybe you were typing but I read it as less than $1500
Sleeved air bags do pretty good off road when paired with good shocks. No need to go coil-over and airbag. I would not triangulate lower links on anything that would be towing! Unless you want to do a rear mounted tank or fuel cell, your options are limited.
Stay away from a parellel 4 link, if you want it to flex well. Plus I just dont like panhard bars. I have a wishbone 3 link on my truck that does great. You can Google it, there are a few out there. Also there is a guy that did a pretty trick setup on a first Gen Cummins. I think his name is Mopar Darrell on Instagram.
You can have a great street truck, tow truck and "ok" off road rig all in one. If you need any help I would be glad to build you a rear setup that will destroy anything that Kelderman has for sale.
'06 '07 LBZ's
Owner of ShopSource.com
& Evil Arc Fabrication
Stay away from a parellel 4 link, if you want it to flex well. Plus I just dont like panhard bars. I have a wishbone 3 link on my truck that does great. You can Google it, there are a few out there. Also there is a guy that did a pretty trick setup on a first Gen Cummins. I think his name is Mopar Darrell on Instagram.
You can have a great street truck, tow truck and "ok" off road rig all in one. If you need any help I would be glad to build you a rear setup that will destroy anything that Kelderman has for sale.
'06 '07 LBZ's
Owner of ShopSource.com
& Evil Arc Fabrication
So I have no clue what my spring rates need to be. I'm going to be using the King 2.5" coilovers with the internal bypass and the remote reservoir, and am going be using two on each corner. Here's the link: http://www.offroadshocks.com/product/2-5-Inch-Off-Road-Coilovers/PR2518-COHRS.html. Thanks in advance for the information.
You don't need 2 per corner. James has found a setup that works well to what you want to do. You're asking too much with 2 per corner. Do a 3 link offset wishbone for the rear using sleeved airbag. It all depends on what you use your truck for to get the right combination to set up your suspension.