Okay so I'm curious, If I'm holding 24,000-25,000 rail pressure with stock injectors and cp3 on my max effort tunning at 3100-3200us.@600HP If I install 30% overs will that make it easier on my CP3 and can I make more power ? what is the absolute limit on the stock LBZ motor HP wise ?
LBZ: 30 or 60% overs on Stock LBZ Motor? Max LBZ HP on Stock Motor?
- Thread starter newduramax06
- Start date
Honestly there is no "limit" on an lbz stock internals.. It's a guessing game. Some break at 450 some break at 800..
Mark just made damn near 800 on a bone stock Lmm engine with air and fuel upgrades.
Larger injectors will be easier on your engine due to smaller pulse width
If your making a legit 600 now and want more your ready for a built motor.
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Mark just made damn near 800 on a bone stock Lmm engine with air and fuel upgrades.
Larger injectors will be easier on your engine due to smaller pulse width
If your making a legit 600 now and want more your ready for a built motor.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What he said...
I've gone thru two stock LBZ bottom.ends hunting for the answers you're asking for, and my answer is
YOU'RE THERE BRO!
You could be driving a ticking time bomb with every rotation the crank makes, now
If you're running a stock turbo, stock fuel LBZ, I'd like to see the dyno of the 600whp claim...just sayin
If you really want to push it, you can get a bigger turbo and whatever size injector you want and press into the 600whp range, but I personally wouldn't suggest it. You're gonna need more fuel at about 630whp, when the stock LBZ CP3 reaches its limit...it can only flow so much volume irregardless of what size injectors are atomizing the fuel.
My advise, buy a block and get it machined, get a new LML crank, some rods and pistons and when the short block is ready, pull your tired (key word: RUNNING) engine out and swap tin
Finding and STAYING in the "max power a stock LBZ" can handle, is a game of chance and heartache...its not worth it..
Not to mention...
These guys that make big dyno numbers are not using these truck to DD at this power level...some of them do it once to post a dyno slip
If you really have 600 or even close to 600whp now, and want 650whp to beat the street with, it won't be enough once you get it...trust me...I personally feel like the magic number to have in these rigs, to be a dominant and sanely insane street truck, is appx 700whp
And Id like this moment to quote Yoda
"Do or do not, there is no TRY"
AND REMIND YOU
It either will last or it won't
Are you REALLY willing to play that hand and play that bluff?
Cuz youre trying to build a bluff and play like you've got a full house...pushing a stock LBZ into 600+ territory...
I got the riot act read to me about this very subject...4 years ago, until about 2 years ago when the (mostly) unspoken "sorry bud, but we told ya so" took place
Putting another stock engine in wasn't the plan, but it had to happen and I went down in turbo size, all seemed well, then the crank failed
It's your money, your time and your life
Try out Mark's stg 2 3794R and a set of 40% over exergy injectors
Gamble away
I liked this combo and think it "would've lasted" if the crank hadn't failed
I've gone thru two stock LBZ bottom.ends hunting for the answers you're asking for, and my answer is
YOU'RE THERE BRO!
You could be driving a ticking time bomb with every rotation the crank makes, now
If you're running a stock turbo, stock fuel LBZ, I'd like to see the dyno of the 600whp claim...just sayin
If you really want to push it, you can get a bigger turbo and whatever size injector you want and press into the 600whp range, but I personally wouldn't suggest it. You're gonna need more fuel at about 630whp, when the stock LBZ CP3 reaches its limit...it can only flow so much volume irregardless of what size injectors are atomizing the fuel.
My advise, buy a block and get it machined, get a new LML crank, some rods and pistons and when the short block is ready, pull your tired (key word: RUNNING) engine out and swap tin
Finding and STAYING in the "max power a stock LBZ" can handle, is a game of chance and heartache...its not worth it..
Not to mention...
These guys that make big dyno numbers are not using these truck to DD at this power level...some of them do it once to post a dyno slip
If you really have 600 or even close to 600whp now, and want 650whp to beat the street with, it won't be enough once you get it...trust me...I personally feel like the magic number to have in these rigs, to be a dominant and sanely insane street truck, is appx 700whp
And Id like this moment to quote Yoda
"Do or do not, there is no TRY"
AND REMIND YOU
It either will last or it won't
Are you REALLY willing to play that hand and play that bluff?
Cuz youre trying to build a bluff and play like you've got a full house...pushing a stock LBZ into 600+ territory...
I got the riot act read to me about this very subject...4 years ago, until about 2 years ago when the (mostly) unspoken "sorry bud, but we told ya so" took place
Putting another stock engine in wasn't the plan, but it had to happen and I went down in turbo size, all seemed well, then the crank failed
It's your money, your time and your life
Try out Mark's stg 2 3794R and a set of 40% over exergy injectors
Gamble away
I liked this combo and think it "would've lasted" if the crank hadn't failed
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Guys I'm currently running a bullseye S366 and I'm also running 100% methanol injection to get me up into the 650 range and built trans etc... I have all supporting mods. Based on my 7.60- pass times at 91MPH in the 1/8th I'm around 625-650 and I'm wanting too know if doing a set of 30% overs whould be too much
From my experience...I would have to respectfully say that is going to be too much, but you could have one of the "legendary" LBZ engines that we all wanted...
Nice set up and numbers!
If you fill out your sig we might be able to skip some of the questions and typical BS, that way we can sorta start off with knowing you have a clue what you're asking
:hug:
Nice set up and numbers!
If you fill out your sig we might be able to skip some of the questions and typical BS, that way we can sorta start off with knowing you have a clue what you're asking
:hug:
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Yeah I figured it might be too much so I guess I'm gonna stick with my current setup for awhile, and I run 60/40 on the street and 100% meth on the track!
Why not just ditch the meth and do 30% overs? That way you bring your pulse width down and still run a 7.6? That's close to an 11.9 in the 1/4 so at that point your playing with fire with those times...
X2
Probably be easier on the motor running larger injectors versus the 100% meth. What kind of EGTs are you seeing at the track?
You know what that's now a bad idea. My question is what Would happen if I installed the 30% overs without changing my tuning ?
You'll have 30% more fuel and your cp3 probably won't keep up.
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What if I keep running my current setup with meth and add 30% overs ? That should get me closer to that 700 mark :woott:
:woott:
I'd hold off till you get those gauges installed. LBZ pistons are weak at best. What's the specs on the 366?
What if I keep running my current setup with meth and add 30% overs ? That should get me closer to that 700 mark
OMG get rid of meth. And stop using ricer math.
haha...seriously who even looks at their EGT gauge? ...its not like you're going to let out while going down the track because its reading too high. mine has been unplugged for a while now. its essential if you tow with big tunes though.
oh yeah go with 100% and get good in seat tuning.... if you switch without changing tuning you will notice the power and a lot of smoke but she will run.
oh yeah go with 100% and get good in seat tuning.... if you switch without changing tuning you will notice the power and a lot of smoke but she will run.