Ohhhh I'm excited to see this so I'll have an excuse not to build my bottom end of it last any time 
2WD RCLB LBZ Build
- Thread starter othrgrl
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Ohhhh I'm excited to see this so I'll have an excuse not to build my bottom end of it last any time
Like I said, we are already working on a motor for it - we are not expecting this motor to last indifinitely with all the new parts in/on it and we will be tuning it conservatively at first and slowly bringing the power up through the summer as long as the chassis is working to get it to the ground.
I was meaning that sarcastic :woott: I wouldn't expect mine to last very long much over what I'm at now either. Was wanting to show a friend a video of the truck yesterday but couldn't find it? Was it deleted?
Well, looks like some head work and a cam are getting added to the current round of mods - obviously head studs will be added as well.
Cam is in, heads just came back and are about to go on. The body is back from paint. We stuck a mock up motor in and fabbed up the front mount setup for it. Just got the exhaust piping back from ceramic coating. Also deleted the bail connectors and completely redid the wiring harness to simplify it all and clean it up. Getting it back together to make some test passes before Rudy's.
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Why the Intercooler delete ? Weight savings ? Won't the boosted air be too hot without the Intercooler ? Or do you plan on cooling it with NOS . Just curious . I might learn a little something something.
I seen several guys run singles not run intercoolers. Weight, less plumbing. Heat doesn't seem to be an big issue unless unless you are compounding.
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Why the Intercooler delete ? Weight savings ? Won't the boosted air be too hot without the Intercooler ? Or do you plan on cooling it with NOS . Just curious . I might learn a little something something.
Like Dozer said: with that big of a single we will not be pushing it hard or running very high boost - the turbo discharge temps should be a lot lower than most. If it does need cooled it will be done with nitrous. On the stock motor we are not going to be pushing it hard at all and losing power from the charge air temps is not much of a concern. This setup is much simpler, lighter, and easier to work on. If we go back to intercooled it will be an air to water setup in the valley, but I doubt we ever will.
We got to go do some testing on the truck last week. Drove it around on the street for about an hour with the front clip off, making a bunch of hard pulls for the last half hour of it. When I go out you could hold your hand on the charge pipe and it was just warm to the touch. This 485/96/.90T4 is pushing 105 PSI of boost with only about 70 PSI of drive pressure. I was optimistic on how it would spool, but it exceeded my expectations. I can get it into 6th on the highway at 1600 RPM and roll into it and the boost will just start coming right up. Took it down to Darlington and only had time for 3 passes, with 2 back to to back (timeslips are 4 minutes apart). The 2nd gear launch tune did not want to work at all - I had to get up to 15mph for it to go into 2nd, then if I held throttle and rode the brakes it would go back to 1st before I came to a stop. Also had the 5th gear shift at 99mph/4800RPM and 6th at 144/5400, yet it was in 6th at 103mph just before the 1/8 and never got back on top of the charger. Still managed a 10.49 @ 122, which to my knowledge is a record for a stock bottom end, at least in a 2500/3500 factory duramax equipped truck.
Trying to swap to a different TCM with an OS that I've never had issues with to see if I can get 2nd gear launch to work and the trans to shift when commanded. And will be back at the track next week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HPbkS7Ghi4
Trying to swap to a different TCM with an OS that I've never had issues with to see if I can get 2nd gear launch to work and the trans to shift when commanded. And will be back at the track next week.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HPbkS7Ghi4
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Damn it’s going to be a runner when you get the bugs worked out.
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The truck with me in it was 4430 on the scale at Peidmont Dragway for the Rudy's Diesel event. Front wheels are still 8 lug - they are Real 16x4s with M&H front runners on them. I have thought about doing 1500 spindles and 5 lug conversion wheel bearings, but haven't gotten around to seeing if they would work on the 2500 control arms or not. We will be swapping the rear end to a narrower Strange built Ford 9" that will be 5 lug with smaller brakes that will fit 15" wheels and moving the leaf springs under the frame to make room for bigger tires and give us a much wider selection of slicks. It will also drop a good bit of weight and be easier to setup a pinion brake on so we aren't loading the chassis at the line.
Geezus, Dustin... Congrats!
FYI: 1500 spindle is ~1.25" shorter than 2500. Lower ball joint is the same size and taper 1500/2500. Upper ball joint you would just have to ream the 1500 spindle to fit. You'll have to check upper ball joint angles to see if they will be ok, though.
Tie rod holes are larger on 2500, too. But you can ream out the 1500 spindle to fit the 2500 tie rod.
An interesting tidbit: Some of the early 2000-01 2500HD spindles actually used the smaller 1500 tie rod end.
FYI: 1500 spindle is ~1.25" shorter than 2500. Lower ball joint is the same size and taper 1500/2500. Upper ball joint you would just have to ream the 1500 spindle to fit. You'll have to check upper ball joint angles to see if they will be ok, though.
Tie rod holes are larger on 2500, too. But you can ream out the 1500 spindle to fit the 2500 tie rod.
An interesting tidbit: Some of the early 2000-01 2500HD spindles actually used the smaller 1500 tie rod end.
Wow that thing is light . And I’m sure the 9” will help trim weight over the AAM 11.5 . You running Real Wheels in the rear as well ?
Looks like I know what front wheels and tires I'll be running on my project. Awesome setup can't wait to see what she does in the future.
Thanks for the info Tom. I don't think it would be an issue to get them fitting based on that stuff. The upper ball joint angles would be fine I think and I could probably replace the upper joint with a 1500 upper joint and not even have to ream anything. Do you know where the 1.25" comes out of it? Like it it the same from lower ball joint to hub center, upper to hub center, or more like 5/8" smaller on either side.
Prostreeter - It is still a long bed, still has full interior, both stock seats, stock vinyl floor with insulation, all interior panels, headliner and dash. Just missing door panels. Could strip a decent bit more weight pretty easily. We are running Real wheels in the back as well - 16x10 with 6" backspacing and we used Rim screws on them.
WisconsonHick I may be selling this whole set if i got to the 5 lug stuff.
Prostreeter - It is still a long bed, still has full interior, both stock seats, stock vinyl floor with insulation, all interior panels, headliner and dash. Just missing door panels. Could strip a decent bit more weight pretty easily. We are running Real wheels in the back as well - 16x10 with 6" backspacing and we used Rim screws on them.
WisconsonHick I may be selling this whole set if i got to the 5 lug stuff.
Dustin, Id have to go out to the garage and find my 1500 spindles and do a comparison again. I believe the change in height was from the hub to the top of the spindle. I can get to it later today.