What I'm reading is "when I hit the 4>5 shift (60-70 mph), the trans limps and the truck slows down"
I kind of feel like I am beating a dead horse telling you the same thing over and over that you refuse to listen to, but here goes anway...
The reason we all like EFILive is because it is exactly NOT AT ALL like what you say. Sure, you can go to DuramaxTuner and buy a one-size-fits-"all" tune, but that is not what people on this forum do. The vendors here will work with your preferences and mods to create a tune unique to your truck and preferences (smoke, responsiveness, etc.). That's the point of having the ability to log, and work with your tuner. It isn't as necessary on a stock truck, since your truck is just like the other 100k guys' trucks, after all.
Second, the "dying out" at high speed could be from any number of things. It could be your rail pressure falling off, it could be defuel from a hurt trans, it could be a weird MAF limit, a limp mode, etc. The PPE tuner can't tell you any of that. You are throwing parts at the truck because you have no idea what is happening inside the engine. It might need a 2nd (or bigger) CP3, but it might well not.
Based on your claim that the trans is stock, I find draining the rail to be unlikely. You will nuke the stock trans in a spectacular fashion long before you run out of rail pressure, unless you happen to have one whipped CP3 on that truck, or a freak of a trans, or both.
Now, since you are throwing good money after bad and don't want to sell the dual CP3 setup, by all means, throw it on, and see if it gets better. If not, throw a lift pump on, and see if it gets better. If not, throw a 2nd turbo on and see if it gets better. :spit:
Or, you could use EFILive (or any logging tool) and determine what is causing your truck to fall off at high speeds, and fix the actual issue, not just guess at causes and throw parts at the truck. We are just trying to save you from unnecessary and complex mods that you don't need, and solve your root problem.
Finally, to reiterate what was stated earlier: a 2nd CP3 won't hurt the stock injectors or fuel system, so long as the dual-CP3 controller is working right. If that fails, then you have the potential to damage your fuel relief valve or even crack injector bodies, stock or not.
I kind of feel like I am beating a dead horse telling you the same thing over and over that you refuse to listen to, but here goes anway...
The reason we all like EFILive is because it is exactly NOT AT ALL like what you say. Sure, you can go to DuramaxTuner and buy a one-size-fits-"all" tune, but that is not what people on this forum do. The vendors here will work with your preferences and mods to create a tune unique to your truck and preferences (smoke, responsiveness, etc.). That's the point of having the ability to log, and work with your tuner. It isn't as necessary on a stock truck, since your truck is just like the other 100k guys' trucks, after all.
Second, the "dying out" at high speed could be from any number of things. It could be your rail pressure falling off, it could be defuel from a hurt trans, it could be a weird MAF limit, a limp mode, etc. The PPE tuner can't tell you any of that. You are throwing parts at the truck because you have no idea what is happening inside the engine. It might need a 2nd (or bigger) CP3, but it might well not.
Based on your claim that the trans is stock, I find draining the rail to be unlikely. You will nuke the stock trans in a spectacular fashion long before you run out of rail pressure, unless you happen to have one whipped CP3 on that truck, or a freak of a trans, or both.
Now, since you are throwing good money after bad and don't want to sell the dual CP3 setup, by all means, throw it on, and see if it gets better. If not, throw a lift pump on, and see if it gets better. If not, throw a 2nd turbo on and see if it gets better. :spit:
Or, you could use EFILive (or any logging tool) and determine what is causing your truck to fall off at high speeds, and fix the actual issue, not just guess at causes and throw parts at the truck. We are just trying to save you from unnecessary and complex mods that you don't need, and solve your root problem.
Finally, to reiterate what was stated earlier: a 2nd CP3 won't hurt the stock injectors or fuel system, so long as the dual-CP3 controller is working right. If that fails, then you have the potential to damage your fuel relief valve or even crack injector bodies, stock or not.
I have always had trouble understanding this and maybe some one can explain it. I would also like to put a twin cp3 kit on because I have an extra stock pump but keep hearing to go to a better single pump. With the twins its not going to give it any extra fuel than the vehicle is asking for right? Thanks Fred
See that's all I was trying to figure out, seems like a legitimate question right? And not once has anyone explained how the 2 pumps actually work with one another. I don't want to hear just use this or use that I want to know how they work so I know why!
grown men trying to act like forum gangsters..
Running two pumps does not decrease wear between them. They both still push the same mount of commanded psi. Your only gaining more volume to maintain pressure when you have a worn stock fuel system or larger than stock injectors.
You need to monitor desired rail pressure vs actual to know for a fact if you need something more in volume for fuel. Without monitoring that, it's a guessing game.
You can either run a second pump on your stock fuel system or find the weak points in the fuel system, address them and get them to hold rail pressure.
Adding that second pump won't hurt your fuel system but certainly will supply the fuel to hurt the lower end once the 475 goes on top till you get the build engine in
OK, fair enough. I thought someone touched on how the pumps work earlier, but I guess not.
With two pumps, they each provide half the volume of fuel. They both end up at the same pressure, but the load is somewhat reduced. The controller causes both regulators to open the same amount.
I think all the confusion comes from your first post where it appears (or we all just ASSumed) you were building the motor that was in the truck based on you mixing your 2nd motor build plans with how the current motor runs.
And you are right that you never asked what tuning to use. I was just trying to get to the root of the problem it seemed you had, which was due to miscommunication. It is hard to get thinga across on the forums vs in person. I (and I suspect others) believed you were going to build the motor in your truck because it had problems once you got above 60 or so. So I wasn't trying to act smarter than you, I was trying to save you a lot of money you didn't need to spend. But it sounds like you want to go through the engine just for the sake of it, which is fine.
So hopefully that answers your question about dual CP3s sharing load, and sorry if you felt we were trying to induct you into the cult of EFILive I just misunderstood what you were doing, and tried to save you some effort.
Sent from my FlashScan V2
It sounds like you know how to keep the Allison alive, so it should last a while. When I first got my truck, I did the same as you, and I got about 50k miles before it started limping, so hopefully you get a while out of yours too.No hard feelings, you all are very smart and know what's going on and I respect that. It was probably my fault I used the problem with my truck as an example that I didn't word right. I apologize for that. Thank you for the info, as far as my trans I keep the go pedal off the floor and get pretty good mileage with the 225 tune. When I do play I generally don't spin it over 3k and the top of 3rd I lift and be easy. At the price they want for these Trans I've been gathering information to do a rebuild myself when I come across a core. I've put about 10k on this trans at the 225 and about 1k on the 6th tune. I keep the filters changed and no 4-5 5-4 shifts and it's been holding strong , fluid has always been clean. It won't last forever but if I'm easy on it it should be OK for a while I HOPE! thanks again. Well while I'm here what a average price for the labor to put a little in these. There's no qualified shops around me that know the Allison . When I've called and talked to a lot of them they say things that don't even pertain to the Allison or the upgrades that come in kits like the g-max or you can just tell they don't know how the Allison works all the while there talking like they know and have done tons of them thinking I don't know anything about them. So that kind of worries me, leaving something that expensive and important in there hands.
OK I got ya. Makes sense I want sure how they actually handled the load. Whether the second picked up where the first falls short or if they split the load. I'm actually heading to my pops machine shop right now to get started on my block. Like I stated earlier, I'm building another motor which I plan to over build for future plans and will be going into something smaller (single cab short bed something possibly a car) to play with. I'm just throwing a 475 on my truck for towing and egt control and it's cheap and easy. I do appreciate the info greatly.