2015+ HD Regular Cab Short Bed - Best Way?

Cornell

LBZ for life
Sep 11, 2006
1,601
0
0
Minnesota
Kick this idea around constantly, and to do it I thought it would be best to buy one new; that is a regular cab long bed LML, try to trade the long bed for a short at a salvage yard, be happy with the interior because GM won't offer a regular cab with full power leather buckets and a center console with nav. Cutting the frame on a brand new truck... why? Because I want something unique and a RCSB works great as my work truck. I drive on home development jobsites almost everyday. Off road quite a bit doing so. I drive up and down 2 to 1 graded slopes with the current LBZ and the short frame makes it so I don't get hung up, approach and departure angles are good. Maybe not worth it to cut up a brand new truck though.

But ideally was thinking of doing an interior swap with something you would consider luxury. Caddi seems wayyyy too hard after taking a look at the 2016 Escalade my Dad bought for my Mom awhile back. So that idea is out. Just not up to tackle that nor do I know if someone else could make everything jive.

So next idea.... say you bought a totaled out/salvage Denali with irreparable cab damage. It would be the cheapest way to get what I want done, regardless of getting into a regular cab for 43-46k..... a crashed/totaled Denali must of cheaper. And don't care about the title anyways because I plan on keeping my current regular cab short bed LBZ forever. Ideally it leaves you with everything you need minus a regular cab, headliner, and b pillar interior moldings. Carpet can be cut down if its in good shape. You can get a 15+ regular cab with doors for $1500. An overstock company is selling them online.


Couple questions:

How does the vin tag work on the overstock reg cab when I mate the regular cab to the denali frame after I shortened it? With it being a diesel I could see issues. I know the guy on here had a problem titling his truck when the vin was for a 5.3 or 4.8 gas truck and he swapped the LLY into the 1500 frame.

Also when we did my regular cab LBZ short bed swap it was extremely easy because I followed Lennart's How-To write up he posted on here years and years ago. That writeup was super detailed.

Suppose I could start by looking and comparing the current CCSB frame to the RCLB frame and see where it would be best to shorten. I remember a member on here made an extended cab short bed into a regular cab short bed but that was a GMT-800.


Just typing this out so I have a line of thought I can go back to.

Opinions welcome.

And for your time, here are a few photoshops I had done of what a RCSB 15+ HD Denali would look like. Both from the factory and with lifts/wheels/tires. The back of the cabs and windows aren't quite right but oh well.





















 
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DURAMXD

BOB SAGET!
Apr 24, 2012
348
0
16
Wichita, KS
JFC. You're killing me! I keep joking around that I'm going to buy a brand new one and shorten it with the window sticker still in it. You and I are on very similar pages. And I hate the fact that you can't buy a "loaded" regular cab anymore.

The plan that I've made up in my head would be to (attempt to) trade the long bed for a short bed from a salvage yard in the same color (I want white, so that should make it easier). Then find a way to donor/swap fancy seats (I want heated and AC seats!) and all the good interior stuff in. Factory tank, probably shorten factory exhaust, etc. I want it to look as stock as possible when I'm done. I would run factory 20s too.

GM upfitter, having a short bed on hand and worst case going to the dealer to measure trucks would give you all the measurements you need to do it.

As for VIN/title, I'm not sure how Minnesota works, but I know in Kansas the best route is to shorten a regular cab. You've got original cab/frame and the VINs all match at that point and so does the cab configuration. If I was to use a truck/VIN that was a crew cab and put a regular cab on it then it would have to get a builders title here (which would make it basically worthless for resale, loan and insurance value). Or if the regular cab you would use to put on the crew cab frame had a VIN and title with the cab, you could use that instead.

And I know you had someone up there shorten your LBZ, and I know I'm in Kansas, but if you want to get serious about doing it I would work something out with you to make it work for you. I'd just like to do one. You can check out my build thread on mine if you want to check out the work on my LB7 I shortened.

Thanks for the photoshops for me to drool over!
 

DefiantArms

Limp Mode Cowboy
Jan 28, 2016
897
1
18
St. Augustine, FL
I'd think buying the lower end single cab long bed than just sourcing a flood truck or something similar would be the best route. Than again buy a extended cab loaded out truck and just get a cab from the Hicksville people idk it's a conundrum lol
 

Cornell

LBZ for life
Sep 11, 2006
1,601
0
0
Minnesota
JFC. You're killing me! I keep joking around that I'm going to buy a brand new one and shorten it with the window sticker still in it. You and I are on very similar pages. And I hate the fact that you can't buy a "loaded" regular cab anymore.

The plan that I've made up in my head would be to (attempt to) trade the long bed for a short bed from a salvage yard in the same color (I want white, so that should make it easier). Then find a way to donor/swap fancy seats (I want heated and AC seats!) and all the good interior stuff in. Factory tank, probably shorten factory exhaust, etc. I want it to look as stock as possible when I'm done. I would run factory 20s too.

GM upfitter, having a short bed on hand and worst case going to the dealer to measure trucks would give you all the measurements you need to do it.

As for VIN/title, I'm not sure how Minnesota works, but I know in Kansas the best route is to shorten a regular cab. You've got original cab/frame and the VINs all match at that point and so does the cab configuration. If I was to use a truck/VIN that was a crew cab and put a regular cab on it then it would have to get a builders title here (which would make it basically worthless for resale, loan and insurance value). Or if the regular cab you would use to put on the crew cab frame had a VIN and title with the cab, you could use that instead.

And I know you had someone up there shorten your LBZ, and I know I'm in Kansas, but if you want to get serious about doing it I would work something out with you to make it work for you. I'd just like to do one. You can check out my build thread on mine if you want to check out the work on my LB7 I shortened.

Thanks for the photoshops for me to drool over!

I figured that if I do it the way I want I only need to buy one donor vehicle. Putting an interior from a flood scares me just because you don't know if it will all work and they will still want a pretty penny for it.

I'd think buying the lower end single cab long bed than just sourcing a flood truck or something similar would be the best route. Than again buy a extended cab loaded out truck and just get a cab from the Hicksville people idk it's a conundrum lol

I don't even want to mess with a flood lol

I think selling me your RC LBZ is the best route for sure :D

I'll probably be keeping it forever :rofl: