2007 Silverado 2500 HD Crank No Start

[csmith@cdsmithfamilyfarms]

Good Day,
Bought a slightly tuned LMM truck with 148k miles on it and have put 3k miles on it with no problems. On a hot July day, fueled up, made a 60 mile highway trip, truck was shut off for 15 min and started back up no problem, wheeled around a pasture for 20 min, shut it off again, but would not start again. I have performed the fuel filter primer pump procedure twice, but still seeing strong crank but will not start. I am in the process of checking for air leaks in the fuel filter and fuel lines, checking for trouble codes, and circling back to the mechanic who dropped the gas tank last month to retrieve a bed rail bolt.

After the issue started, I noticed that the Fuel Filter Life jumped from 83% remaining to 100% and the Oil Filter Life jumped from 60% remaining to 100%. Anybody seen the indicators jump back up like this?

 

[dzimbric]

Does the button get hard when you prime the fuel filter, if not then you may need to change your fuel filter housing, I have done it twice in 300k

 

[Dean E]

One thing you might want to consider is a decent lift pump. The filter head sucking in air from the seals going bad is a common problem. Applying a small amount of fuel pressure to the CP3 cures a bunch of this. Easier for the seals to hold in pressure than holding up with suction applied. With an AirDog or FASS you can have your main fuel filter and water separator back by the tank and much easier to replace. You can leave the stock filter on as an extra bit of insurance but not much need to change it like you would in the past. Dean

 

[csmith@cdsmithfamilyfarms]

Does the button get hard when you prime the fuel filter, if not then you may need to change your fuel filter housing, I have done it twice in 300k

Button does get hard to push when bleeder valve shut and fuel comes out of the bleeder with screw slightly cracked.

One thing you might want to consider is a decent lift pump. The filter head sucking in air from the seals going bad is a common problem. Applying a small amount of fuel pressure to the CP3 cures a bunch of this. Easier for the seals to hold in pressure than holding up with suction applied. With an AirDog or FASS you can have your main fuel filter and water separator back by the tank and much easier to replace. You can leave the stock filter on as an extra bit of insurance but not much need to change it like you would in the past. Dean.

Thanks for the advice. I began looking at lift pumps yesterday and your suggestion answered a few of my questions.

 

[SoCalMike]

My stock fuel filter head started leaking and I removed it. I have a Fass system on the truck and never had any problems since

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Dean E]

Button does get hard to push when bleeder valve shut and fuel comes out of the bleeder with screw slightly cracked.

Thanks for the advice. I began looking at lift pumps yesterday and your suggestion answered a few of my questions.

I did the FASS 95 on my LMM. I also did the filter delete bowl on mine and made it easy to add a fuel pressure switch. It is adjustable and set it to make a ground when the pressure gets below 5 psi. That lights an LED on my dash and lets me know the pump is working or when under a heavy load if the filter is starting to clog. I also added a S&B 62 gallon tank to mine. The stock 26 is just too small. For winter driving I added an optional plug heater to the lift pump. It comes on once the temp gets below 37 degrees. On the FASS system what the engine does not use is cycled back to the tank. This helps the fuel in the tank to warm up a bit to help with gelling.

 

[dzimbric]

How hard is ti to install the FASS? Is it a driveway type job?

 

[Dean E]

How hard is ti to install the FASS? Is it a driveway type job?

Pretty straight forward job. You will need the quick release tools for the fuel lines going to the tank. If you have not seen them before I can send of pic of what they look like. Most certainly a driveway job, no need to drop the tank or anything like that. The lift pump uses a single attach point with one of the frame to bed attach bolts. Before removing that bolt (on the driver's side just forward of the wheel well you might want to spray some WD40 up there in the bed attachment channel to make sure you don't have any issues getting that bed bolt out. The only head scratcher was trying to find a circuit to trigger the power relay. I think the new instuctions show that but I can take a pic of that two to show you which circuit to use for the pump running. Dean

 

[csmith@cdsmithfamilyfarms]

Pretty straight forward job. You will need the quick release tools for the fuel lines going to the tank. If you have not seen them before I can send of pic of what they look like. Most certainly a driveway job, no need to drop the tank or anything like that. The lift pump uses a single attach point with one of the frame to bed attach bolts. Before removing that bolt (on the driver's side just forward of the wheel well you might want to spray some WD40 up there in the bed attachment channel to make sure you don't have any issues getting that bed bolt out. The only head scratcher was trying to find a circuit to trigger the power relay. I think the new instuctions show that but I can take a pic of that two to show you which circuit to use for the pump running. Dean

Pictures would be much appreciated.

 

[Dean E]

Pictures would be much appreciated.

I'll try to get pics tonight. Had a busy weekend. Dean

 

[Dean E]

Pictures would be much appreciated.

Here is the installation. The bracket uses the second mounting bolt for the bed just in front of the driver's side wheel well. The second pic shows the return line and how it connects to the tank fill line. Make sure to put the angle towards the tank. The 4th pic is not really clear. I was trying to show one of the push on connectors for the fuel system. Really hard to do with the S&B tank install. This is just aft of the fuel heat exchanger. On the stock 26 gallon tank this is all exposed at the front of the tank, with the S&B tank the heat exchanger is in the middle of the 62 gallon tank. The lines you will disconnect are at the heat exchanger and I show a pic of the tools needed to remove those quick disconnects. On the first pic you will see an added port I did. This is on the pump output side and I put an AN 4 cap on it. This is so I can easily check the output pressure of the pump if need be. Not needed but something I did if I need to check the pumps performance. Dean

 

[Dean E]

Here is where I connected the power trigger for the relay that operates the lift pump. It is MISC IGNITION (number 40 on the panel). You can see the relay mounted on the side next to the fuse panel. You see two of them on my installation, the second is the optional heater circuit that I installed when I did the S&B tank to help warm the fuel up on really cold mornings. All told the install took about 5 hours but I am pretty picky on the wire routing and getting everything tied up correctly. I know some guys have done it in less time but like I said no need to drop the fuel tank (unless you did the S&B tank first). Everything is pretty easy to reach with the stock tank. Dean

 

[dzimbric]

So what is the benefit over the stock setup, outside of being able to pre-heat your fuel?

 

[csmith@cdsmithfamilyfarms]

Here is the installation. The bracket uses the second mounting bolt for the bed just in front of the driver's side wheel well. The second pic shows the return line and how it connects to the tank fill line. Make sure to put the angle towards the tank. The 4th pic is not really clear. I was trying to show one of the push on connectors for the fuel system. Really hard to do with the S&B tank install. This is just aft of the fuel heat exchanger. On the stock 26 gallon tank this is all exposed at the front of the tank, with the S&B tank the heat exchanger is in the middle of the 62 gallon tank. The lines you will disconnect are at the heat exchanger and I show a pic of the tools needed to remove those quick disconnects. On the first pic you will see an added port I did. This is on the pump output side and I put an AN 4 cap on it. This is so I can easily check the output pressure of the pump if need be. Not needed but something I did if I need to check the pumps performance. Dean

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Thanks. This looks straightforward and a good first project for me.

 

[Dean E]

So what is the benefit over the stock setup, outside of being able to pre-heat your fuel?

There are a number of things. GM's thinking on sucking fuel from the tank thru the filter to the CP3 on the stock filter setup does make for a better water separator. When adding a lift pump the stock filter does not separate the water as well. When you do an AirDog or FASS unit the fuel is sucked thru the lift pump water separator then into the lift pump. Then the fuel is pushed thru the separate fuel filter on the unit. The relief valve return maintains about 10 psi and the rest of the fuel is returned to the tank. This has the advantage of letting the fuel do multiple passes thru the filters to make sure the diesel is as clean as it can be. You can keep the stock filter assy in place if you want for extra filtering but I put a filter delete on mine. The stock fuel heater in the filter head is still retained along with the water separator sensor. Also makes it easy to purge air out of the system with the bleeder on top of the filter head. The stock filter location on the LMM sucked. It's ridiculous to have to remove the front wheel well liner just to get to the fuel filter. As you can see from the pics the filter change on the lift pump is super easy now. I will say that the engine now idles smoother and is definitely more responsive with the lift pump. Some claim you get better mileage but I never saw any. I think you have to had something wrong with your fuel system and install a lift pump to see any improvement in fuel economy.

Another advantage is the air separation. Not a big deal on a full fuel tank but as the fuel gets lower and sloshes around more you can get air suspended in the fuel. Air Dog and FASS systems are air separator lift pumps. I deal with aircraft high pressure hyd systems and can tell you that air in a 3000 psi hyd systems can seriously hammer seals and components and cause failures in those systems. The CP3 output can reach 26,000 psi at the injectors! Anything that can be done to remove suspended air in the fuel will definitely help the life of your injectors. Also seals do a better job of sealing under pressure than under a vacuum. With a lift pump the days of having issues with having to reprime the filter head are gone. Quick easy starts with a lift pump supplying the fuel needed.

Some guys like the Kennedy pumps. Nothing wrong with them but I do like the quick install of the FASS unit and having the fuel separator and filter right there as a neat package plus the Kennedy pumps are only pumps, there is not air separator feature with them. Also depending on the installation the Kennedy pumps can be hard to prime. Priming on the FASS is not needed. They self prime very easily. I usually leave the filter loose on the unit (fuel filter not the water separator) when doing filter changes and the FASS lift pump picks up the fuel easily and I seat the filter as soon as fuel starts coming out. Done.

I do know the latest FASS systems now use a glass matt water separator which is supposed to work better that the old separators. Don't know much about that, never really had any issues with the old water separators. But because of that the filter locations on the units has now changed. The main filter is first and the water separator is after the lift pump. One thing about the glass matt separators is if you do have water in the fuel the new filters will only take in so much water then they will not let anything pass.

I will say, I never had any regrets putting a lift pump on my LMM. My truck runs a 70 HP tune. Many think that you need a lift pump with you crank up the power out of your Duramax, to me the advantages are clear even on a stock truck for those who plan on keeping your truck for a long time. Got 195K on my LMM and highly doubt I will ever need to do the injectors on my truck. Dean

 

[dzimbric]

Thanks for the write up. I just passed 300K and noticed my mileage is dropping. I just watched a YT video nohow to check for boost leaks, I'm just going to replace the boots on the cross-over pipes as they are 15 years old.

 

[Dean E]

Thanks for the write up. I just passed 300K and noticed my mileage is dropping. I just watched a YT video nohow to check for boost leaks, I'm just going to replace the boots on the cross-over pipes as they are 15 years old.

Keep an eye on the seams on the intercooler. Not a big problem on the Duramax but some have been found leaking. D

 

[csmith@cdsmithfamilyfarms]

@Dean E @dzimbric @SoCalMike Have any of you heard of the Oil Life Monitor and Fuel Filter Life Monitor jumping back to 100%? Its been 3000 miles since oil / fuel filter change. The monitors jumped back to 100% when the "Crank, No Start" issue started.

 

[2004LB7]

only when the voltage drops too low. have your batteries load tested

 

[Dean E]

@Dean E @dzimbric @SoCalMike Have any of you heard of the Oil Life Monitor and Fuel Filter Life Monitor jumping back to 100%? Its been 3000 miles since oil / fuel filter change. The monitors jumped back to 100% when the "Crank, No Start" issue started.

Yes, like ^^^^^^^^ he said. This can also cause your auto mode on the climate control to reset to the 74 degrees when the cranking voltage gets too low. Dean