LLY: 2006 LLY Advice

[howard8448]

New here and also wanting some input from guys who have been around these for a while. 2006 LLY that has 110K and no issues that I can find. I'm getting ready to order some parts that from what I have read are good to go. I just changed it over to amsoil, if anyone has any reasons why I shouldn't run it please let me know. I plan on adding an Edge CTS Insight, EFI Live by duramaxtuner.com, Airdog II 165, EGR Blocker, and the Banks muffler delete. Is the Airdog 4G worth the extra money? And are there any issues I should look for or that are known to happen with the 06 LLYs? Thanks ahead of time.

 

[cstephens93]

Dont think you should spend the extra money if you dont plan on making huge hp numbers. The Airdog III should be just fine

 

[Burn Down]

I would at least do a transgo Jr. shift kit.

 

[howard8448]

I do want the transgo jr. I am just waiting until I get the cooler and pan. Which will be my next round of upgrades and maintenance. And I don't plan on breaking the 550 HP mark. This is my daily driver and I am going to be doing a little bit of towing with it too. So I don't want to do too much. Actually, in about a month I am going to be towing my little ricer TC about 1200 miles to Washington before I deploy. Any tips on maintainance that I should do prior to? I just don't want to break half way there..... Thanks again guys.

 

[Burn Down]

Well don't run a 500+ tune with a stock trans... Even with a shift kit +90hp is about all I recommend.

It should tow your car just fine as is. Just do your normal maintenance stuff.

 

[howard8448]

I plan on staying with the Stage 1 offered that adds 130 HP. If I were to bump up the power what would you recommend me do to build my trans. I've heard people saying it but I'm not sure exactly what that involves. And pricing?

 

[Burn Down]

I plan on staying with the Stage 1 offered that adds 130 HP. If I were to bump up the power what would you recommend me do to build my trans. I've heard people saying it but I'm not sure exactly what that involves. And pricing?

130 is to much for a stock trans. IMOP... 90 is the max I recommend with a shift kit. Depending on your driving habits (how hard you beat the truck) they can live at higher power levels. Towing adds even more stress...

Built trans involves new clutches and shift kits and lots of other little tricks a good builder doesn't divulge:thumb: Prices vary. Give Mike L. or Evan at limitless a call. They can answer all your questions.

:Edit I see your in Cali Mike L has a shop there. He is the Ally guru.

 

[Hernpj01]

Call Mike L hes in California for trans service

 

[howard8448]

I'll keep it at the light tow/sport eco setting until I can afford to have the tranny built. Thank you. I will shoot him a call when I can.

 

[howard8448]

Hernpj01, was the Kryptonite Stage 3 Front End worth it? My tie rods will need to be replaced once I get back from my deployment and I'm interested in it. And although I don't race and I'm not a heavy hauler like some of the guys I want a bulletproof truck that I can rely on.

 

[Hernpj01]

for my application it works great and i like it.

For your truck i would recommend new tierods with tie rod sleeves and a DHD brace

 

[howard8448]

Why not upgrade the tie rods since I am already replacing them? I know that they are probably overkill but if I decide to take this thing offroad a bit or end up towing heavy wouldn't it be smarter in the long run to spend the money now?

 

[superswamper003]

My buddy has an 06 lly on the ppe 225 tune, it hauls ass.. He has no trans issues as well and has been running this setup for a a couple years now

 

[howard8448]

Awesome. Thanks again. Are there any issues that the 2006 LLY is known for and is there anything I am missing?

 

[Ridin'GMC]

Awesome. Thanks again. Are there any issues that the 2006 LLY is known for and is there anything I am missing?

Not really, they're the same as the LBZ. You better upgrade the steering system for a straight center link with that lift of yours. I went through enough and went to the kryptonite. Just recently changed the steering box to a red head and it was a day and night difference between an adjusted factory box to the red head box. Steering is nice and tight. While you're there, get the idler arm upgrade with the brace. That's the last thing I need to make my steering bulletproof.

 

[othrgrl]

Save the money and do an AirDog 150, it will support far more than your plans (I trapped 136mph in the 1/4 on one). You will be fine on the 130hp tune with a shift kit while empty and a tow tune while towing. The DHD brace won't work with your lift kit. But I would do MOOG tie rods with sleeves - lifetime warranty on them and available anywhere you are at a local parts store, have never had issues with them. No matter how HD your tie rods are or what super hero they are supposed to be stronger than, they are still a wear item; and when it is time to replace them I don't want to have to find my original box, original receipt and ship it in for analysis, then wait for the replacement to be shipped. If you stick with 35s on that 6" lift and keep your angles right you won't have a bunch of steering problems.

Just start calling your truck an LBZ. There is nothing LLY about it except the power rating and door badge from the factory, which is about to change. Physically everything on your truck is the same as an LBZ and referring to it as an LBZ will prevent anyone from sending you the wrong parts.

 

[howard8448]

othrgrl:

I can see what you are saying. And I asked because I saw on another thread that a lot of comments said to go with sleeves. Like I said before I am new, I haven't really messed around with trucks and suspensions before so if I am wrong please let me know. With the Kryptonite Stage 3 front end I get the solid center link, the tie rods, idler support bracket, idler support frame gusset, and the idler arm. Which are all overbuilt and should help tighten and strengthen up my front end. I do get the part of being able to run down to Napa or whatever and get a replacement but I can do that until my new ones come in too. Money when it comes to the steering on my lifted truck isn't an issue, I want it bulletproof and tight. I know I'm asking people to talk me out of the HD tie rods but I don't see how a standard tie rod with sleeves can be as strong and reliable as one that has been built to be that way from the beginning.

Ridin'GMC:

When it comes to the steering box. How hard of a swap is that? I'm no expert mechanic more of a weekend diy. What all did you gain from the swap?


Thank you both for your input.

 

[othrgrl]

They way I see it is that the stock tie rod's only weak point on a suspension with proper angles is the inner tie rod being able to bend, with a sleeve around it that can't happen - so problem solved. The other parts you mentioned are solutions to front end problems caused by severe angles, extreme offsets, etc. If you get a set of 37s on rims with -1,000mm offset and then have to add lift keys to your suspension and crank the front up to extreme angles you will start to have steering issues that need addressed. There is such a thing as over-engineering and there is certainly such a thing as over-spending. I have seen huge centerlinks that were rubbing on the upper oil pan.

 

[howard8448]

Don't take my questions the wrong way. I am trying to learn as much as possible since all of you on this forum know more than I do. So what would you recommend for a lifted truck that will be towing and playing around. I've always been told having strong parts when it comes to steering helps, but I'm guessing that belief is somewhat wrong in this case. So to tighten up my steering and also make it bulletproof you would recommend MOOG tie rods with sleeves and anything else? Truck only has 110K on it but they were all towing. Not sure how hard the guy before me ran it but it seems like he took care of it. The swaybar end links are shot so I will be getting new ones before I head out on a 1200 mile trip. I'm making a list of things to do when I get back from my deployment.

 

[othrgrl]

Don't take my questions the wrong way. I am trying to learn as much as possible since all of you on this forum know more than I do. So what would you recommend for a lifted truck that will be towing and playing around. I've always been told having strong parts when it comes to steering helps, but I'm guessing that belief is somewhat wrong in this case. So to tighten up my steering and also make it bulletproof you would recommend MOOG tie rods with sleeves and anything else? Truck only has 110K on it but they were all towing. Not sure how hard the guy before me ran it but it seems like he took care of it. The swaybar end links are shot so I will be getting new ones before I head out on a 1200 mile trip. I'm making a list of things to do when I get back from my deployment.

I'm not taking your questions the wrong way, just giving you my opinion on it. Stronger parts where they aren't necessary are a waste of money to me. I'm sure a 6" diameter solid steel rod with yokes on the ends would make a really strong driveshaft, but it is completely unnecessary and would be a waste of money. Guys that put in a fuel sump and run 5/8" fuel lines to an AirDog 200 then the PPE big feed and ported fittings all on a truck with a stock trans - wasteful overkill. As far as steering I would inspect it all for any worn parts and replace anything that needs it and put sleeves on it.