2001 lb7 duramax fuel issues.
- Thread starter Arlo75
- Start date
I've quit a job over not being able to get to work because of this truck. Now have a better job waiting on me but won't wait forever. Swear to God this truck is the devil.
And can't find anyone to look at it around here. Just the one guy and he doesn't know the problem so he tells me to change fuel lines. I've fixed the only place that was leaking and it didn't change anything. The only thing that's changed anything was when I changed MAF sensor.
well, you wanna buy some tools and dive into this thing or cut your losses and roll on with life? btw, thats not trying to be an asshole about your situation, i fully get it. More of me just seeing how far you want to go with it so we can help dive in with you.
Just bought a whole truck that's been wrecked for 1800. Starts and goes in gear. Got tools. Change engine or trannie first?
I've
I've got over 10k in this truck and a 120k a year job waiting on it. I've got to fix it and fast.
Im not going to have you throw parts at it. this isnt going to be a fast process but you are quick at replying to it helps.
you need to get yourself a bi-directional scanner. Autels are pretty good and the chinese tech2's are real good as well. once you have that, start the process like i stated above for the engine.
for the trans, you can drop that trans pan and we can go from there while you wait on the scan tool. check the back of the trans where the electrical connector plugs into the case for oil inside that connector. it will be at the rear, right hand side, large connector.
you need to get yourself a bi-directional scanner. Autels are pretty good and the chinese tech2's are real good as well. once you have that, start the process like i stated above for the engine.
for the trans, you can drop that trans pan and we can go from there while you wait on the scan tool. check the back of the trans where the electrical connector plugs into the case for oil inside that connector. it will be at the rear, right hand side, large connector.
The great thing about buying the right tools to repair your own vehicle, like the Autel James mentioned, is that it is not consumed or used up in the repair. It can be used over and over and on other vehicles too. Consider it an investment that will in the long run actually save you money and be better educated on the inner workings of the vehicle. These types of purchases I don't count towards the cost of the vehicle repair
That -3 on the one cylinder I don't like and bet is causing your knock. Buy a nano tech 2 off Amazon for $100, that's what I use and is cheap then you can disable that cylinder and see if the knock goes away.