1'st motor build

[duramaxnokaoi]

So I bought an 11 LML CC, LB, DRW with 196K on it and a bad head gasket. I've swapped motors before, broke them down completely, but never put one together from bottom to top.

So, at 196K it doesn't use any oil, smoke, or make and bad noises, it got almost 20MPG driving it home 800 miles away going 70-85, so I dont feel like the motors in bad shape at all (other than HG's)

Within the next year I'd like to add a S475 over stock. So if I am going to spend the time to do HG's, I think its probably a good idea to do rods, pistons, and good bearings and ARP's all around. Will I need to get the block bored 10 or 20 over no matter what to do it right?

My goal is only 550-600 HP, it will be a daily driver, I tow heavy stuff sometimes for up to 1,000 miles each way for work, and I'd love to go beat on the imports at the track.

I just want it to be super reliable, so any tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Head gaskets are easy enough on these rigs, lots of accessory tear down...
Install better head studs for security although they're really not needed for newer duramax's with working boost levels under 50-60psi,once it's back together and healthy find a good efi live tuner to get you a good power bump and rip up the road for a bit...some of the tunes for the LML are putting down 100 more (and more) horse than stock, getting better fuel economy through better tuning than factory creating less soot forcing regen less frequently.

Not sure if there is aftermarket support for tuning and fuel mods needed to really support the potential a twin kit can produce for the LML yet, although I never really pay attention cuz I'm a LBZ guy.

I guess you could twin the stock charger easy enough, but a tuned stock vgt can produce quite a bit of oomph, save up for pistons and rods instead

My .02 cents fwiw

 

[Cknight199]

You'll need to shill out 4-5k for a tranny build, not sure on lml pricing though.

 

[Xternal]

Lml have huge injectors compared to lmm to that's a nice advantage. If you want to save money the lml have been holding up to 500+ hp on stock internals. I would throw a s475 on it, build the tranny, lift pump, head studs since your in there. Check the injectors also just to make sure. If they deemed need to be changed go a little bigger for when the urge for more power comes like it does to all of us. Wehrli fab builds nice twin setups as does hsp. Do a little research and you should be good.

 

[plowboy_lbz]

I think a good route to what you want would be to build that trans, s475 o/stock, keep the stock injectors, and add a cp3 o/the stock cp4 so you have plenty of fuel. Then dial it all in with some custom tuning. I think that combo would be good for 700+ hp but you can set it where ever you like.

The lml is too new to know how well the motor will hold together under huge power, so far they seem to be stronger than previous years. At this point I would just stud it, add your supporting mods you want and drive it. If at some point down the road the motor needs attention then do it, if not, well you just saved a lot of money by not building your motor.

 

[duramaxnokaoi]

After doing the EGR delete, Im thinking its going to be so much easier with the motor out of the truck that it justifies pulling it. If anyone has HG procedure for any dmax that'd be great.

Having got everyones input I guess I will just stud it, build the tranny instead, and save up to get the exact combo i'd want as far as rods, pistons, cam, and heads…. it'd probably be 10K in parts alone if I do something all the above mentioned things huh?

Thanks for the insight fellas.

 

[plowboy_lbz]

After doing the EGR delete, Im thinking its going to be so much easier with the motor out of the truck that it justifies pulling it. If anyone has HG procedure for any dmax that'd be great.

Having got everyones input I guess I will just stud it, build the tranny instead, and save up to get the exact combo i'd want as far as rods, pistons, cam, and heads…. it'd probably be 10K in parts alone if I do something all the above mentioned things huh?

Thanks for the insight fellas.

or more

 

[quadracer37]

After doing the EGR delete, Im thinking its going to be so much easier with the motor out of the truck that it justifies pulling it. If anyone has HG procedure for any dmax that'd be great.

Having got everyones input I guess I will just stud it, build the tranny instead, and save up to get the exact combo i'd want as far as rods, pistons, cam, and heads…. it'd probably be 10K in parts alone if I do something all the above mentioned things huh?

Thanks for the insight fellas.

I wouldn't spend the money on a full trans build for an lml if your only planning on 600 max. I'm sitting around 600 hp on my current tune and trans is all stock except for a converter. Also have a few other lml trucks (customers) running 600hp on just a converter.
You can reach your hp goal with a stock charger, tuning and a cp3 pump kit, however it will run a little on the hot side when towing heavy unless you turn down the tune.
Ultimate LML tow rig-lift pump, converter, s475 over stock turbo and Efi live. To hit 600 or higher though you will need a cp3 pump kit. This is all from personal experience. :thumb:

 

[duramaxnokaoi]

I wouldn't spend the money on a full trans build for an lml if your only planning on 600 max. I'm sitting around 600 hp on my current tune and trans is all stock except for a converter. Also have a few other lml trucks (customers) running 600hp on just a converter.
You can reach your hp goal with a stock charger, tuning and a cp3 pump kit, however it will run a little on the hot side when towing heavy unless you turn down the tune.
Ultimate LML tow rig-lift pump, converter, s475 over stock turbo and Efi live. To hit 600 or higher though you will need a cp3 pump kit. This is all from personal experience. :thumb:

Thanks for the info. The best is from personal experience and I appreciate your sharing.

Does anyone know someone in the Asheville NC area that could help be do a rebuild on my LML? I've got a heated shop with all the tooling we'd need, I just don't want to throw 5K of parts together and hope I remembered to torque everything just right. More than likely it'll end up at someones shop, but I'm happy to pay someone to help out on the weekends or whatever works for their schedule.

 

[duramaxnokaoi]

Also, any suggestions on what converter to go with for a DD that will tow and maybe get to the track once and a while to beat on imports?