Looks good so far:thumb: I might be little sensitive today too. Kid at work asked for help, then when I try to help sits there and tells me I'm wrong and it should ne done this way:mad like he always dose.
1972 c30 dirty max can i get alittle help
- Thread starter 72burban
- Start date
I Agree Donor is the easiest. I picked up mine 01 rc lb drw Lb7 2wd ali for $5500 it only has 120k on it. Deals are popping up everywhere. There was a wrecked 05 4x4 in cali for 4300. Perfect donor for a west coast guy. Gone now but they pop up. Good luck.
You need to do some more research on the parts your piecing together. LLY rods are not the strongest, LBZ/LMM rods are stronger. LB7/LLY pistons are better than LBZ/LMM (crack less). It goes on & on, all the info is on this site, if you search a little.
I think you are bitting of more than you can chew piecing this together. However I understand a budget, some things are just out of reach:hug:
Great project, I had thought of this a few years ago (converting a burb into a CC) but gave up do to lack of time. I hope you pull it off, it pegs the way cool factor.
Be patient, & polite to the guy's on this site and they will give you a wealth of knowledge. Good luck.
I think you are bitting of more than you can chew piecing this together. However I understand a budget, some things are just out of reach:hug:
Great project, I had thought of this a few years ago (converting a burb into a CC) but gave up do to lack of time. I hope you pull it off, it pegs the way cool factor.
Be patient, & polite to the guy's on this site and they will give you a wealth of knowledge. Good luck.
try again sunshine. AAM 11.5 is the currently biggest offered in a chevy 3500 on down. it was offered from 01 duramaxes/8.1Ls on up. cranks breaking isnt due to power, stock trucks have broken cranks with low miles. Sit down and start searching this site, there is more info here than everyone can remember. I think you got a cool project and good luck :thumb:
btw, there is a 01 rc/lb 2wd out here for 4000 bucks. its got not mechanical issues and drives nice.
Last edited:
I didn't say the biggest rear end I just said the strongest and I have yet to see any body tear apart a 14 bolt yet and I didnt say there was crank breaking due to to much power just I talk to scrap yards and after market guys tell me that thats there Down fall and where this truck at?
there is a reason GM didnt put the 14bolt behind a stock dmax. for your app i think you will be fine and i dobut you will be hauling the loads that the 11.5 is needed for. if you do decided to throw a decent amount of power at it though, be prepared for carrier bearing issues or parts breaking. and you didnt state strongest, you said heaviest. could be taken either way but no worries
. I dont know how the crank is a downfall either you got a weak one or you dont. So far, they have been showin to make a 1709hp dyno pass, a few 1200hp drag strip passes, and multiple 900-1000hp drag strip passes. kinda the same with a allison trans input/output, it will either hold 800hp or it wont hold 500hp.can you please put some punctuation in your post too? its a bit hard to make sense of where a sentence ends and doesnt.
I know of at least one broken 10.5 behind a CUMMINS, so they are not that super stout. DODGE did put a 10.5" behind the CUMMINS, but it is teh DODGE version of the AM 10.5" nothing like the GM version. The 10.5" is a good hearty axle, but the carrier seems to be a weak link in them. I've beet on mine a bit and so far so good, but I don't put big HP to it either. I know your on a budget, and that lump sum of $4-5K sounds like alot, but once you piecew one together I promise you it WILL ost you more once your done. My $6K donor truck(which I turned around and sold the frame and stuff I didn't need which brought it back down to about $4k) was the least of my conversion costs when it was all said and done, and this was with a fairly complete donor truck.
The 14bolt will go out behind a Cummins with less than 500hp. A guy I know has shelled out 3 in his 84 K30 Cummins. As far as a doubler you'll need a 205 from behind a th400 or a 85-91 4spd. Those have 32 splines and work with the doubler kits. Otherwise you'll have to get the housing machined and put a 32spline input in anyways which equals more expence. The 203 needs to probably have a custom input machined for the Allison because none makes them production. We've been down this road over the last 5yrs trying to build some stuff. Our 67 K20 has been delayed years by holdups but we're going to use a 01 frame and running gear now and just transplanting the body onto it.
Listen to these guys and buy a donor. It will cost way more if you don't. I bought one drivetrain for $5000,one for $3000 and one complete pickup for $3000.
Listen to these guys and buy a donor. It will cost way more if you don't. I bought one drivetrain for $5000,one for $3000 and one complete pickup for $3000.
ok guys im not trying to fight but heres my point of view i have the 14 bolt aready if i tear her up ill replace with something more. as far as the 203/double i got my machine guy on the custom houseing and i replace the input shaft going in the 203 and have a shaft adpater/extender to bridge the the gap from the ally to the 203 so thats already taken care of.
as far as the truck goes i dont really have a budget some much as a time frame i want this truck done before i go to school next year(to prevent some of the wiser guys on here from saying i need to save for school i have a full ride to school thru my welding program) and as far as budget i got all the ot time i want and with no real bills my cash goes to my truck and as far as sheet metal goes truck will be done at 6k which will leave me with 12k unless i need more then ot time kicks in :thumb:
i dont know how else to say this lol if i find a donor i will buy and use it but if it comes time for the motor and i havent found one im not going to wait around ...
as far as the truck goes i dont really have a budget some much as a time frame i want this truck done before i go to school next year(to prevent some of the wiser guys on here from saying i need to save for school i have a full ride to school thru my welding program) and as far as budget i got all the ot time i want and with no real bills my cash goes to my truck and as far as sheet metal goes truck will be done at 6k which will leave me with 12k unless i need more then ot time kicks in :thumb:
i dont know how else to say this lol if i find a donor i will buy and use it but if it comes time for the motor and i havent found one im not going to wait around ...
nothing wrong with the lb7s at all they get a bad wrap for eating injectors but its your cheapest route because they made them from 01 to 04 and are easier to work on EXCEPT! changing injectors is a bitch because they are under the valve cover try to stay away from the cali models they have egrs which can be removed.The lb7 pistons are stronger but use lbz rods or go to carillos.i have 2 lbz motors im parting out rite now so if you need rods let me know and if you need a builder lb7 talk to billyr on here he has 4 or 5 blocks pretty cheap.Good luck with your project and i hope you have a you tube channel and can post videos of the truck build,thats gonna be a bad ass rig for sure! :thumb:
I would start building your motor now and if you find a donner you can sell the motor to offset your purchase of the donner that way your ready to go if not and you know what you have when you build it.Better start working that ot LOL:rofl:
