1.62 60ft, truck went home on trailer....

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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They were lowered..... To a level I thought was fine. I will pull the bolts out all the way next time. Keys are there to stay.

go back to your "4x4 laucnhing" thread. if you CVs are not level or slightly negative, your setup for a bad launch. And to add to this, just cause they are where they need to be does not mean your good for 1.5-1.6 launches right off the bat. your shocks can allow too much suspension rise, your rear end could be squatting too much causing front end rise, you could be getting rear axle wrap which will not help the front end keep traction as well and cause a bad truck hop.

if you want to do this right, ease into launching harder and harder till the truck start unsettling. each time, have someone video your launch from the side line as close to the truck as they can (while still having the truck in the whole screen obviously) and then replay that launch over and over while you see what the truck is doing.
 

WolfLMM

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Update.


My good buddy is the shop Foreman at the local Chevy dealer here. So we go over the truck with a fine tooth comb. Can't find anything bent, alignment rack says only thing out was tow in.... So we go get a brand new centerlink... No difference. Pitman arm idled arm both pointing straight back. Both new as well. My tie rods sure as hell aren't bent. We pulled everything apart steering gear box idler support I mean everything. Don't know... Adjusted tow in and took off. Truck drives just like before.
 

WVRigrat05

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Mine did the same exact thing at TS, except my center link was tweaked just a smidge, but I bent the idler arm upwards and the bracket was too, the pitman arm was tweaked too. I eye ball aligned it at the track and went to a shop and put it on the rack and drove home just fine. You could tell in turns it wasn't right though
 
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coldLBZ

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Apr 22, 2007
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They were lowered..... To a level I thought was fine. I will pull the bolts out all the way next time. Keys are there to stay.

Why not go back to stock keys cranked up, that way you can drop them at the track. Then drop the back an inch or so, you should be close to level then. If you plan to keep racing and hitting it hard you're gonna keep hurting stuff with those keys in there. :)
 

WolfLMM

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Why not go back to stock keys cranked up, that way you can drop them at the track. Then drop the back an inch or so, you should be close to level then. If you plan to keep racing and hitting it hard you're gonna keep hurting stuff with those keys in there. :)

The stock keys will not lift me high enough. Not to mention they ride terrible when maxed out like that.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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The stock keys will not lift me high enough. Not to mention they ride terrible when maxed out like that.

do you have blocks under the rear spring pack at the rear of the truck? and it doesnt matter where the bolts are set for the keys on whether it will ride better or not. if you set the stock keys to one height, swap keys to the lift ones and set it back to the same height, ride quality will not change. it still takes the same amount of preload to achieve desired ride height regardless of bolt position. the lift keys are just indexed differently.
 

LBZ

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do you have blocks under the rear spring pack at the rear of the truck? and it doesnt matter where the bolts are set for the keys on whether it will ride better or not. if you set the stock keys to one height, swap keys to the lift ones and set it back to the same height, ride quality will not change. it still takes the same amount of preload to achieve desired ride height regardless of bolt position. the lift keys are just indexed differently.
Correct. My buddy has the same truck with same size tires with the bars cranked and it rides terrible. Switched to green keys cuz someone told him it would ride better. It was no different.

I would do a 4" lift long before I would just crank the bars up. Ride is much better with more room for adjustment.
 

WolfLMM

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do you have blocks under the rear spring pack at the rear of the truck? and it doesnt matter where the bolts are set for the keys on whether it will ride better or not. if you set the stock keys to one height, swap keys to the lift ones and set it back to the same height, ride quality will not change. it still takes the same amount of preload to achieve desired ride height regardless of bolt position. the lift keys are just indexed differently.

I understand geometry James. Never said anything about preload or indexed keys being different than using bolts run in further. To achieve a desired height. But I will tell my new keys ride much better than the factory ones maxed out. And my truck sits higher now with new keys. The factory keys WOULD NOT level my truck out.
 
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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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I understand geometry James. Never said anything about preload or indexed keys being different than using bolts run in further. To achieve a desired height. But I will tell my new keys ride much better than the factory ones maxed out. And my truck sits higher now with new keys. The factory keys WOULD NOT level my truck out.

im not saying you dont, wolf. just explaining things, not trying to push you down or anything. all good :hug:. i dont believe what your saying to be true but there could be another variable or two that do affect the ride.

like i asked though, do you have blocks under the rear springs?