Maybe a dumb question, but looking at all the other issues you be had. Is the cam timing marks lined up correctly? Are you using the correct exciter plate on the cam gear? Or is was it put on?
08 lmm with a po341 after rebuild. And no start.
- Thread starter rddooley92
- Start date
In every pic you have I do not see a cam reluctor wheel on the cam gear. Is there a gold plate held on by 6 bolts on that gear before the cam bolt is going in?
If you are getting a cam signal, you wouldn't be getting the p0341 code. You should be seeing the signal drop out to still be sending the code.
Start back probing and ohming the cam wires. Make sure you didn't put a crank sensor in the cam sensor location and the plugs are in the correct sensor (I believe they are keyed to each specific sensor but can't remember off the top of my head). If that is all good, I would pull the cam and crank gear to see if they put the key way in the correct spot or if either pin is sheared.
At this point, you can't trust a damn thing that shop did and realistically, i would not be trying to get it to start anymore and instead tearing it down. I wouldn't be letting that engine leave my shop to a customer knowing shotty "I don't know about dmax" machine work has been done to it (not you, the machine shop). Regardless of your hours, this is your name and shops name on this truck you are trying to fix
Start back probing and ohming the cam wires. Make sure you didn't put a crank sensor in the cam sensor location and the plugs are in the correct sensor (I believe they are keyed to each specific sensor but can't remember off the top of my head). If that is all good, I would pull the cam and crank gear to see if they put the key way in the correct spot or if either pin is sheared.
At this point, you can't trust a damn thing that shop did and realistically, i would not be trying to get it to start anymore and instead tearing it down. I wouldn't be letting that engine leave my shop to a customer knowing shotty "I don't know about dmax" machine work has been done to it (not you, the machine shop). Regardless of your hours, this is your name and shops name on this truck you are trying to fix
I did tear it down fixed their ridiculous mistakes and timed the engine. The gear was sticking out too far because they didn't put the bolts in the plate that holds the cam in. There's a 5 volt reference on the cam sensor. No pins where sheared the gear is sitting great now. The exciter ring is straight no warping. I ran my own cam connector off the ecm. Everything I know to try has been exhausted. Usually someone else would have had this problem, but I've scoured the forums and nothing..
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If you positive on the cam signal being good, I'd start looking else where like grounds (did they paint the block?) and is fuel is actually at the injectors (crack a hard line, crank and then look for fuel dribbling out)
I know it's beaten to death, where did you get the sensors??
FWIW, I bought 3 boost sensors from Napa and they ended up being baro sensors, I had to get the right one from a guy online who had a new GM sensor.
Block isnt painted I did think of a ground so I put one from the block to the frame. One sensor was cheap AutoZone and the other is a oem sensor
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There are many more than 1 ground on that block. There are 4 maybe 5 eyelets that connect to bosses at the bottoms of the block. One little one on pass side is a key ground for the ecm to work correctly. It to mention the battery's ground to both sides of the block. I would clean those bosses and then reconnect them all. There have been a few guys who painted the block and then had ground issues that stopped the truck from running or working correctly.
10-4, I'm out of options other than kick the **** out of the fender and call someone.
Do you have the tone wheel on it? It's a yellow zinc/cadmium color that goes on with 4-5 bolts on the front of the gear. I don't see it anywhere in the pics. That's what the cam position is timed from
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Twist the wires together would be a good start point aswell! Kind of self shield that way
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I just had a similar case. After building this LMM got P0341 and start and stall. I was sure timing and reluctor plates were installed correctly, but double checked by peeping through the cam and crank sensor holes. As expected all was correct. Ohmed out the cam and crank circuits all OK. Checked cam and crank sensor depth/clearance OK. Checked on the scan tool that cam and crank sensor show yes for signal when cranking. The problem- Cam sensor must be partially faulty. When I would rotate the cam sensor a 1/4 turn left it fired up. Set it back to line up the bolt hole and problem reoccurs. Since the cam and crank sensors are the same length, I swapped them to see what would happen. It started right up. So somehow the cam sensor must be failing and not reading an adequate signal in its original position.
JUst posting this here in case it might help someone down the line.
JUst posting this here in case it might help someone down the line.
I will try that tommorow 4 shops have looked at this truck and no-one can figure it out. I ordered a new ecm and it still will not start. Sorry just signed back into the forums an seen your post. If it only fires with the cam sensor turned his did you keep it there with the bolt not lining up?
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