06 LLY HG Replacement.

JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Hey guys I bought a 2006 LLY that has 180,000 miles on it with a blown head gasket. I have never been into a diesel engine and only rebuilt a few gas engines with help so I have a few questions. I'm pulling the motor out to do the HG because the oil pan appears to be leaking so I want to fix that while I'm in it this far.

1. I plan to pull the heads have them checked for cracks and have them redecked. Is there any thing else I need to have done while at the machine shop.

2.From what I've read grade C OEM gaskets are the way to go.

3. Plan on doing ARP studs, welded water pump, replace all coolant hoses, EGR delete, & PCV reroute.

4. The front and rear main seals dont appear to be leaking so should I leave them alone or go ahead and replace them.

5. I know any time we went into a gas engine we always replaced the oil pumps is this necessary with these engines.

I'm sure I'm forgetting some of the questions I have and I'm sure I will have more as I get further into this. Is there any thing else that I should do while I have the motor apart or maybe something I shouldnt do. Thanks in advance all help is appreciated.
 
andy-stevenson

andy-stevenson

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Jul 7, 2013
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Skip the welded water pump, Danville Performance (vendor here) pins it.

Just wondering I know when originally manufactured the head gasket design was changed on the LBZ's. Do they still manufacture the shitty design for LLY's or have all head gaskets been replaced with the rivet style?
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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OK thanks for the link. I was just reading a thread about the pinned water pumps and was thinking that was probably the way to go. Its actually a little cheaper to.
 
H

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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When you do the EGR delete and PCV reroute, think about having a bung and barbed nipple welded into your downpipe and connect the re-route tubes to a tee and tee off to the nipple in the downpipe, this will suck the expelled crankcase gasses out and away from the engine compartment. Thats what I did and it's absolutely the way to go, you also avoid the oil drip in the driveway/garage that way

You'll find info and pics in a forum search, it's been covered

If you're pulling the motor now would be the time to install a one piece y-bridge too.

There's all kinds of goodies that you could put on there! But really you'd wanna start by figuring out what you're goals are, time frame you want to a accomplish them in and finances available to get them done. The Most important thing I can think of is spending your money wisely and just enjoying what you've got and not rushing into or pushing the performance potential of your combined set up and finances

I made that mistake, several times over... :p

I imagine an EFI tune is in your immediate future? With the added power of a good tune there are a few things to consider

These aren't "engine" related and can be done anytime, but
You might wanna consider a TransGo Jr shift kit for the trans and also a pump rub eliminator kit for the transfer case. And try to get a good dual filter lift pump on there to preserve the injectors and CP3.

Since the engine is gonna be out, and if performance goals are in your future it might be a good time to add a 1/2 fuel line upgrade too, cuz I imagine having the engine out would make it slightly easier to accomplish.

It'd be an ideal time to add a downpipe, and with 180k on the ticker I'd think about getting the injectors checked out, just to be aware of their condition.

The stock turbo, heads, cam, manifolds and charge air plumbing are really quite capable of making good power, plenty capable of maxing out the power potential of the factory built longblock, so again, figure out your goals and spend your money wisely, that's the best advise I got:thumb:

Wether you wanted it or not!
:angel:
 
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andy-stevenson

andy-stevenson

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Jul 7, 2013
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Only other thing to possibly look into is the driver's side exhaust manifold, they crush a spot to allow the steering shaft by, but isn't necessary. The LML manifold isn't dented and should help with flow.
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Good ideal on the pcv reroute as i will most lickly put a dp on while its out.
Will also be doing an EFI tune. Money is a little tight right now so really only want to do the things that need to be done to get it back on the road but at the same time the thinkgs that are easier to do with the motor out i would like to get done. As far ad the pump rub kit, trans go jr., drivers side manifold and lift pump they are on the list but just not top priority for me right now as they can be done with the motor in the truck. What is the 1/2 fuel line upgrade? Also on the one piece y brige all the ones i have seen just have a pipe coming up to put a hose on and all the egr delete pipes ive looked at are flanged with two bolt hole to bolt to the y bridge. I know they have to make the parts to do both but havent been able to locate them yet so if someone can point me in the right derection.

The end plan is to use this truck for more of a work truck around the farm but still want it to move down the road pretty good.
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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I got the motor out and working on getting the rocker arms off and cant seem to get slack in all the rockers even with the adjustment screws backed all the way off. Is there a spot were they will all loosen up or do i need to just pull the rocker arms.
 
c20elephant

c20elephant

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Apr 25, 2013
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Harmonic balancer while it is out, looks like the same design GM has been using since 1960, the rubber that separates the hub from the ring has got to have a limited life span?
 
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JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Got the heads off and its more than just the gaskets. Passenger side head has some pretty deep pitting.

 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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02Dmaxdually said:
Here are you head gaskets

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-12637785-Cylinder-Gasket/dp/B00GUGZ3SM
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-GM-12637788-Cylinder-Gasket/dp/B00GUGZ2HE
Click to expand...

Appreciate the links but probably going to get every thing from creatures of the night. But first I have a feeling im gonna have to find another head for the passenger side. I have however seen an aluminum head welded up and redecked but have no ideal what it would cost or how long it would hold up for. I didnt see it first hand but it was on weldingweb.com . Here is a link

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.ph...-a-___-horse-power-Ford&highlight=Head+repair
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Ok so from what i have read it looks like to use lly heads i would have to machine the injectors so added cost with no benefit. But it sounds like i could use LMM heads and it would be bolt on and go. Just want to make sure so i know what my options where in case i have to find another set of heads.
 
L

LBZrcks

.........
Jun 2, 2007
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JDT4430 said:
Ok so from what i have read it looks like to use lly heads i would have to machine the injectors so added cost with no benefit. But it sounds like i could use LMM heads and it would be bolt on and go. Just want to make sure so i know what my options where in case i have to find another set of heads.
Click to expand...

You'd be fine using LMM heads too:thumb:
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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LBZrcks said:
You'd be fine using LMM heads too:thumb:
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the info. Will hopefully get my heads to the machine shop friday and see what they say. I'm hoping that maybe that spot can be welded to build it up and machined back down as long as its not going to cost more than used set of heads.
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Got the heads to the machine shop last friday and they said they should be able to weld that spot up and machine it back down.

Been doing some reading and it seems like cracked LBZ pistons are pretty common and wondering if I should replace them with something better.

Also the motor mounts were both completly tore in half so I need to replace those and wondering which ones to go with. Stock/Aftermarket. If aftermarket which ones should I go with.

At this point in time this truck will basically be used for a work truck since I have my LMM to play with. Will probably never spend the money to get a built transmission (unless something happens to this one) so that will be my limiting factor when it comes to HP. Also I bought this truck with the bad hg and want to get it back on the road and driving again before I sink alot of money in it just to make sure there are not any other major issues.
 
JDT4430

JDT4430

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Jul 29, 2014
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Yea the aftermarkets are very pricey but dont want to waste money on the stock ones either if they are just gonna rip in half again.
 
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