05 LLY Sleeper Build
- Thread starter Bdsankey
- Start date
Why, so you can add too much sauce and find what fails first? I'm hoping we can dial in somewhere in the 700-800 range for the street and hopefully try and keep you from slamming in the Ricky Bobby values into the fueling tables. Nathan and Luke have proved what this turbo setup is capable of and I think its more than these stock mains can handle lol.
Haven't even started fab yet customers stuff and my desire to make money (bought a project LB7 to flip) keep getting in the way. I did receive a package today tho, my flanges from HSP showed up today which include 2x 3.5" S300 downpipe flanges/1x 4" S400 downpipe flange/all clamps. I am going with 3.5" downpipes off the S369s and a 4" crossover from the outlet of the S472 to the turbine inlet of the S369s. The eventual plan is to run a unified 5" downpipe that will mate with an exhaust the current stack in the bed.
Attachments
Wayment....... The guy who told you that 1300+on your current motor was being " unreasonable " and to " let you party " is now the same guy who is suppose to keep it turned down.....
In all reality we will keep it happy and it shouldn't be hard to make it street-able with some good a set of Flux injectors in there and some air down low for you finally.
Wayment....... The guy who told you that 1300+on your current motor was being " unreasonable " and to " let you party " is now the same guy who is suppose to keep it turned down.....
In all reality we will keep it happy and it shouldn't be hard to make it street-able with some good a set of Flux injectors in there and some air down low for you finally.
So you're telling me that this thing will have some low rpm drivability again and won't make power only above 3k rpm? The Goerend J bolt together converter should really help out with keeping it street friendly. I know a lower stall like an R or K would likely cut a better 60ft time at the track but it's main goal is a fun street truck. I can always change the stator if I want to try it as it's stupid easy with this converter.
I haven't gotten my injectors back from Don/April @ Flux but Don also wants to wait until he gets his new bench which is perfectly fine with me as this season is pretty well shot anyway. Should be interesting to see how low we can turn it down with these 300s.
I just got done ( aside some small tweaks i need to do to clean up some idle area things im unhappy with ) with Pauls truck with some 350% over from Don and is pretty dang streetable smoke wise for a small little "S470" ( secret squirrel charger ) single at 4700FT here as well as 6500+ DA lately. Dang happy with his work thus far from a tuning stand point. Which means you at low elevation and trips should be a dream from your old setup.
Did you ever get these steering components installed?
Curious of your impression of these Vs. the Kryptonite with the stock center link.
Full disclosure, the PPE kit was a sponsorship item but that will not change my personal opinion on it. Overall I think its great kit for those who want OEM steering geometry.
I have installed them but not used them since the truck was waiting for me to get off my ass and finish the trans and now is getting triples and bigger injectors. If you overlay a stock center link on top of the big diameter PPE they are 100% the same location for tie-rod and pitman/idler connections so there is not a turning radius impact. With that said, I honestly don't think you can go wrong either way when you compare the PPE kit vs the Kryptonite. I will also say that the PPE does not come with the better idler support box and a gusset. Once you add that in they aren't super far apart ($50-$100) in price. I do believe the Kryptonite street center link is a stronger design as it eliminates the major issue of the moment arm on the center link. I sell and have installed quite a bit of the Kryptonite products without any issues and would recommend them in a heartbeat.
Also with either the Kryptonite street series or the PPE you can run the DHD center link brace. I personally am not a fan of the PISK on anything but a lifted truck. The DHD center link brace is simpler, less to wear out (either is a nylon pad or a roller) vs a bunch of heims and thin brackets. This is my preference after having ran both. I'm not saying the PISK is a bad setup I just personally believe it is inferior to the DHD style center link brace.
Last edited:
I wanted to Replace the components in the near future and like the Kryptonite warranty. I was just curious on your thoughts about it figuring you had experience with both.
I don't use the truck for competition and don't want to reduce the steering radius with the Ultimate front end package.
I don't use the truck for competition and don't want to reduce the steering radius with the Ultimate front end package.
I haven't measured the turning radius with the street series center link (what's in the ultimate front end package from Kryptonite) but I don't think it reduces the turning radius much if any after driving it but that isn't the most scientific method.
The Kryptonite warranty is insanely good.
Last edited:
Somewhere, I saw that because it changes the angles, It reduces the steering radius lock to lock Vs. Stock
It would likely only be in issue like when towing trying to backup or things like that in tight spaces. 95% of the time you probably won't notice it.
I honestly don't know. With as far as I pushed stock components with simple bracing and common sense (bars not cranked) I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I had sled pulled for 3-4 years on those OEM Moog tie-rods without an issue as well as took them to DPC and put them through hell including over 1000hp on asphalt. I think a lot of that had to do with the DHD center link brace, DHD lower suspension cross member (the one under the oil pan), and a good thick set of PPE sleeves.
Last edited:
Been doing a lot of digging and I have a few more questions when you get a chance.
On the PPE Idler and the pitman where they attach to the center link, they machine them to accept a roller bearing and a 7/8 bolt. Is there a grease point at that end? Not so much for lubrication of the bearing but more of keeping foreign debris out? I am not sure if there is a seal or anything on either end of it. I see they are serviceable so one could replace the parts if needed.
On the PPE Idler and the pitman where they attach to the center link, they machine them to accept a roller bearing and a 7/8 bolt. Is there a grease point at that end? Not so much for lubrication of the bearing but more of keeping foreign debris out? I am not sure if there is a seal or anything on either end of it. I see they are serviceable so one could replace the parts if needed.
Attachments
There is no grease point on the this style pitman/idler from PPE. There also is not seals on either end to keep debris out but I have packed them with grease on my set and a friend's set without an issue (after installation). My friend's truck has ~18k miles on the kit now including winter and they still seem fine. For the added strength (7/8" fastener/stud) it's a trade off I'm willing to take on my high performance build. I don't know if it is the ideal solution for a street truck looking to beef up the front end a bit.
Thank You. I like that they are rebuildable and field serviceable. I also see that they sell the 1.5 center bar with stock taper too.
That they do. I've used their 1.5" stock taper centerlink with a few sled pullers here in WI with great success for those guys who don't want to or can't run DHD bracing (lifted trucks).
Got some interesting data from F1/Flux Diesel on my injectors over the weekend. We settled on 275% over with stock bodies (I'll update my signature, original plan was 300%). My tuner wants to target full fuel by 2000us of duration in order to help maintain better control over the combustion event and to also keep timing in check when I start spraying it and running it hard.
Don @ F1/Flux Diesel Injection and Dominic @ Starlite have been a big help in determing what the tuner wants for fuel quantity as well as how to provide them with the best data we can in order to make this truck run as clean and successfully as quick as possible. The goal is 1250-1400hp on fuel which shouldn't be an issue with this fuel quantity. I don't think I'll be spraying it much until I get a little beefier bottom end put together (the stock mains scare me plus having an 01-05 block doesn't help). With a comparable fuel quantity, a friend's Cummins has laid down 1750-1800hp uncorrected in Texas so I am very confident these injectors will be a great fit for my overall goals as well as now.
Don @ F1/Flux Diesel Injection and Dominic @ Starlite have been a big help in determing what the tuner wants for fuel quantity as well as how to provide them with the best data we can in order to make this truck run as clean and successfully as quick as possible. The goal is 1250-1400hp on fuel which shouldn't be an issue with this fuel quantity. I don't think I'll be spraying it much until I get a little beefier bottom end put together (the stock mains scare me plus having an 01-05 block doesn't help). With a comparable fuel quantity, a friend's Cummins has laid down 1750-1800hp uncorrected in Texas so I am very confident these injectors will be a great fit for my overall goals as well as now.
They only run 1/8 mile on the towing drag race so 11.3 in the 1/8th. Very respectable
