can anyone tell me if you really need to retorque ARP head studs after running it on a 04 LB7 or I've heard you can cheat and toque them and let sit over night and retorque next day anyone ??
Because it is a ton of work and there new lube makes it unnecessary. Mines been good for 3 years w no re-torque.Definately re torque after a good heat cycle. Why wouldn't you?
I've never retorqed them. I don't see the point.
Me either and I've never had a problem. If you lube and torque them properly they will be fine. Even when I've let them sit overnight I've yet to have I got anymore of a turn out of.
thanks for the ideas im gonna pull it apart and check the cups ,they were like new but i may have missed something in the seating after i see if any coolant is in a cylinder any if any and which one to try to narrow it downYou probably have an injector cup not seated right.
yup # 6 injector cup , I pulled the glow plugs and found a little trace of anti freeze on # 6 cylinder glow plug ... well I didn't know to use loctite on them and found a nice carbon trail on # 6 cup cleaned (carb cleaner and a 1 1/4 nylon brush) and put loctite on all of them Red high temp let sit 24 hrs then added antifreeze and all is well :thumb: as a foot note I did the head bolt (ARP studs) in three steps ending at 125 (specs from ARP for a LB7) let sit over night and hit them again I got a little out of the centers mostly and I used the (new lube they have ) I heat cycled it and because I had to reseat/seal all the injector cups I checked the headbolt/studs and not one took any more torque..... and some pics of the tool I made out of a 7/8 OD aluminum cement lag anchor (ground slightly to fit ) and a 7/16 3inch lag bolt taped on one end to prevent separation to remove the cups , it worked perfect and no damage to cups at allYou probably have an injector cup not seated right.