02' LB7 Tow Pig Build

[fl0w3n]

Cool thanks for the insight guys. I don’t wanna derail the thread too much so I’ll have to see if I can find some more info in other threads about the LBZ swap.

also, @Bdsankey I’m interested to see how your interior renovation and sub box/system comes out. Any update on that side of the project?

 

[Bdsankey]

you will probably be just fine. Im the retard that wants to pull out around a semi at 35mph up the hills, floor it, and hit 75 by time my trailer passes him and have the truck still be in operating parameters. my goals are dumb but it sure was fun doing it.

I mean mine honestly aren't far off, I just happen to live in an area where we don't have mammoth grades, altitude, and high ambient temps. That said, from day 1 the goal was to build the best tow rig I could. Sure, the newer trucks have bigger brakes and stiffer chassis but I'm too attached to this 2002 as it was a wedding gift from my father (long story, I've owned it twice now lol). With the small valley turbine (SXE364.5/68/0.91) and tight atmoshperic housing (480/96/1.15 with race cover) it should remain extremely efficient at the 500whp range and still make around 800 turned up (70% injectors and a 12mm). If the valley turbine becomes an issue (I've got temp/pressure before and after each compressor AND turbine) then I'll jump to the larger turbine SXE364.5 as its an easy swap.

Cool thanks for the insight guys. I don’t wanna derail the thread too much so I’ll have to see if I can find some more info in other threads about the LBZ swap.

also, @Bdsankey I’m interested to see how your interior renovation and sub box/system comes out. Any update on that side of the project?

I haven't even started to be honest. Between this build and my triples I've been strapped for cash and time. I'm going to be tearing down the core trans for this LB7 this weekend to take it to powder coat along with all of the engine parts like accessory brackets, front/rear covers, upper pan, coolant bridge, valve covers etc. The colors are undecided yet but I'm likely going to do the trans and most of the engine parts in a metallic grey (like Kingsport Grey) and do the front/rear/valve covers in candy red to match the piping.

 

[Bdsankey]

My box of datalogging equipment from Banks showed up today. I'll be using their iDash 1.8 system to monitor ambient conditions as well as the efficiency of each turbocharger and the CAC plumbing and oil temp. That includes pressure/temperature before and after each compressor wheel and turbine wheel. I'll be running 2x of their iDash 1.8s (1x data monser and 1x super gauge) in a PPE overhead console mount with switches.


I'll be wiring the switches per James's recommendation and I'll have the switches in the "on" position to allow the signal to pass from the temp switches to the activation pin on the relays for both fans (independently wired/with independent temp switches of course). Turning the switches off will break that connection thus killing the fans if desired.



@Chevy1925, are you thinking I should go down the path of a thermostat in the lines or just send it how it is with a temp switch in the "to cooler" line of the 2020 housing? It looks like Setrab does make a M12-1.5 thermostatic switch that would thread directly into the 2020 cooler. They have them in 180f/190f/200f ratings.

The 180f is 180.6f±3.6f opening and a 165.6f±3.6f closing temp.
The 190f is 186.6f±3.6f opening and a 174.6f±3.6f closing temp.
The 200f is 200.4f±3.6f opening and a 185.4f±3.6f closing temp.

 

[Chevy1925]

That’s purely up to you. If your one to jump in and hammer on down the road when cold in the morning, might be best for a thermostat. I would feel it would have to be extremely cold outside for oil temps to never fully reach what they need to and at that point (constant negatives in F), you will also be running a front end bra to get coolant temps up.

But again, I live in a climate where that’s never going to be case, let alone constantly under 32* so it’s strictly my thought, not facts.

 

[Bdsankey]

I usually let the thing warm up as well as take it easy on it when it's cold. Would you recommend the switch on the hot side or cold side? IE the from the engine or to the engine side of the 2020 cooler? I'd be inclined to say the "to engine" side to try and drop temps further as well as putting the temp sender in the from engine side to get the hottest reading.


I'll run it how you had it and if I have constantly low oil temps I can put a thermostat inline or just loop the lines during winter.

 

[Chevy1925]

i would run the sender on the hottest side. you want the fan coming on to actual oil temp, not post cooler temp. that will give the fan/cooler the most advantage for cooling.

 

[Bdsankey]

i would run the sender on the hottest side. you want the fan coming on to actual oil temp, not post cooler temp. that will give the fan/cooler the most advantage for cooling.

So does it filter>cooler>engine? If so that makes the most sense.

 

[moparkxracer]

I realize I’m the new guy on the block here, ( haven’t posted in a while ) that’s how mine are, I also have the temp sending unit in the sandwich adaptor, oil needs to go in the lower side of the cooler and out the higher side. I never drain oil in the cooler when I change oil, due to not wanting it to have a load on it when the thermostat opens to send oil to the cooler, resulting in air being pushed though the system. Attached is one of my lmm

 

[Chevy1925]

So does it filter> external cooler>engine? If so that makes the most sense.

yes sir (added a little to the quote for clarification).

 

[Bdsankey]

yes sir (added a little to the quote for clarification).

Gotcha, just wanted to be sure. So technically I'll be putting the temp switch in the from engine port on the oil cooler housing which is before any oil cooling correct? If so, I'll probably do a 180f or 200f switch. I'll probably just get a 1/8npt adapter like another member did as they stated it wasn't leaking. I'm worried the M12-1.5 strap switch won't seal properly in the port since I haven't had one of these apart. What are your thoughts @Chevy1925?

 

[Chevy1925]

yes. id go 180* switch personally but as for the adapter, i cant say. i made my own using the factory plug to make sure i didnt have issues/leaks.

 

[Bdsankey]

yes. id go 180* switch personally but as for the adapter, i cant say. i made my own using the factory plug to make sure i didnt have issues/leaks.

I'll have to inspect and see if Anthony put those in the box, I didn't inspect it all that well in terms of those ancillary items like wiring, I was concerned mainly with the big stuff.

 

[gmduramax]

I think I might have left some wiring on the truck

 

[Bdsankey]

I think I might have left some wiring on the truck

Chop chop! I'll mail you my plug if you want to pull the one James made out with the temp switch in it. I can make the rest of the relay harnesses as that's easy peasy.

 

[Chevy1925]

Chop chop! I'll mail you my plug if you want to pull the one James made out with the temp switch in it. I can make the rest of the relay harnesses as that's easy peasy.

i wouldnt use it. it houses the oil temp sensor in the 2020 cooler and its just large enough for the small 1/2" hex head sensor that threads into that plug. the sensor is recessed in due to the allen head hole. you cant even use a socket to get a full grip on the sensor, just a little bit of the socket or open end wrench grabs it enough to fully tighten/loosen. took me a while of just adding a little more tapped threads into the plug till the sender sat optimally. i really dont think you can fit anything any wider in there like the pic you show of those switches.

 

[Bdsankey]

i wouldnt use it. it houses the oil temp sensor in the 2020 cooler and its just large enough for the small 1/2" hex head sensor that threads into that plug. the sensor is recessed in due to the allen head hole. you cant even use a socket to get a full grip on the sensor, just a little bit of the socket or open end wrench grabs it enough to fully tighten/loosen. took me a while of just adding a little more tapped threads into the plug till the sender sat optimally. i really dont think you can fit anything any wider in there like the pic you show of those switches.

10-4. Do you think that Setrab switch with crush washer will fit or should I go down the M12-1.5 to 1/8npt route like another member has done? I will have to get a M12-1.5 to 1/8npt regardless for the temp sender for my iDash.

 

[Chevy1925]

I really dont know on that. id assume so? same thread pitch and all.

 

[Bdsankey]

I really dont know on that. id assume so? same thread pitch and all.

I'm more so asking as I haven't removed one of these plugs on my cooler yet to know how it seals. I guess one way to find out. IIRC the lower port is hot and upper port is cooled correct?

 

[Bdsankey]

Injectors came in. After talking to Don at Flux Diesel we settled on their 8 hole SAC70% nozzle. This nozzle, according to Don, is proprietary and not used by anyone else in the industry. Based on the flow data and discussions with Don on how this nozzle atomizes fuel, these should be extremely efficient as well as provide an extremely long service life. Towing efficiency and drivability is the overall goal here so this amount of fuel should help maintain that.



I also selected to go with Manton/XDP valvetrain on this engine. These are Manton/XDP's 7/16 pushrods which should be overkill for this engine.

 

[1FastBrick]

I really like Manton's stuff. Curious too see how those Flux Capacitors work out too... LOL