The short:
As long as I've had the truck (just over a year) I've been trying to improve the steering. It was one of the reasons my father got rid of the truck and opted for a new one. The lane wandering makes it more effort to drive than our two daily drivers (rack and pinion) which leads to some fatigue when we are pulling the camper - the majority of our family travel mileage. I'm debating throwing money at a new box, but am honestly not sure if it would be any better.
1) What level of "lost motion" is typical in saginaw PS boxes?
2) How big of a "dead zone" is present in a good steering system, properly adjusted, going straight down the road?
3) How big of a no return-to-center zone is present in a good steering system, properly adjusted?
The long:
After I got the truck I isolated a small amount of play in the intermediate shaft. Replaced, Delco/GM. Found some play in the steering column tilt joint - adjusted it out. Small amount of play in the pitman. Replaced, Moog HD. Did idler and bracket for good measure. Small gains. Tie rods and some ball joints were done within the last few years and no discernable play. Alignment done at that time by a trusted tech, so I assume caster is still good. Stock size tires. Z-height set to factory spec. New Bilstein stabilizer.
I took it to a trusted suspension tech who verified the suspension was tight. He felt like the truck drove reasonably but said a box adjustment or replacement might offer some gains. Dad had put a redhead box in the truck, so I was reluctant to suspect the box as the source of play. It's well out of warranty (time) but probably <25k on it. Redhead said I had nothing to loose by attempting to adjust.
I made a small adjustment for worm gear (input shaft) endplay in the truck. Small gain. Disappointing. I figured surely worm shaft play was the cause.
I've added sector shaft adjustment and gotten it down to about 2" corrections (1" left, 1" right) on the steering wheel when driving straight. That said, the steering is fairly stiff. (I likely have gone too far.) There is no/little return to center within about 8" of straight (4" left, 4" right.) I'm thinking a new/stiff stabilizer would cause a little of this.
When I had the intermediate shaft disconnected, I put a wrench on the input shaft and could wiggle it an amount that corresponds to the "play" I'm having to do while driving. Doing so, I could hear/feel a "click-click" in the box. At this point I'm assuming this is lash in the worm screw vs the worm nut - which can't be adjusted out. I'm either hearing the balls as they slop back and forth, or, I'm hearing the gear teeth between the piston and the sector shaft, which can be adjusted.
If I really need to complete the parts cannon experience, I guess my options are:
1) Another redhead rebuild. $$$ (1 year warranty)
2) Dmax store sells a new box. $$$$ (3 year warranty)
3) The six bolt boxes discussed here: Discussion Link
4) Parts store rebuilds.
Would a weak PS pump contribute to any of this?
As long as I've had the truck (just over a year) I've been trying to improve the steering. It was one of the reasons my father got rid of the truck and opted for a new one. The lane wandering makes it more effort to drive than our two daily drivers (rack and pinion) which leads to some fatigue when we are pulling the camper - the majority of our family travel mileage. I'm debating throwing money at a new box, but am honestly not sure if it would be any better.
1) What level of "lost motion" is typical in saginaw PS boxes?
2) How big of a "dead zone" is present in a good steering system, properly adjusted, going straight down the road?
3) How big of a no return-to-center zone is present in a good steering system, properly adjusted?
The long:
After I got the truck I isolated a small amount of play in the intermediate shaft. Replaced, Delco/GM. Found some play in the steering column tilt joint - adjusted it out. Small amount of play in the pitman. Replaced, Moog HD. Did idler and bracket for good measure. Small gains. Tie rods and some ball joints were done within the last few years and no discernable play. Alignment done at that time by a trusted tech, so I assume caster is still good. Stock size tires. Z-height set to factory spec. New Bilstein stabilizer.
I took it to a trusted suspension tech who verified the suspension was tight. He felt like the truck drove reasonably but said a box adjustment or replacement might offer some gains. Dad had put a redhead box in the truck, so I was reluctant to suspect the box as the source of play. It's well out of warranty (time) but probably <25k on it. Redhead said I had nothing to loose by attempting to adjust.
I made a small adjustment for worm gear (input shaft) endplay in the truck. Small gain. Disappointing. I figured surely worm shaft play was the cause.
I've added sector shaft adjustment and gotten it down to about 2" corrections (1" left, 1" right) on the steering wheel when driving straight. That said, the steering is fairly stiff. (I likely have gone too far.) There is no/little return to center within about 8" of straight (4" left, 4" right.) I'm thinking a new/stiff stabilizer would cause a little of this.
When I had the intermediate shaft disconnected, I put a wrench on the input shaft and could wiggle it an amount that corresponds to the "play" I'm having to do while driving. Doing so, I could hear/feel a "click-click" in the box. At this point I'm assuming this is lash in the worm screw vs the worm nut - which can't be adjusted out. I'm either hearing the balls as they slop back and forth, or, I'm hearing the gear teeth between the piston and the sector shaft, which can be adjusted.
If I really need to complete the parts cannon experience, I guess my options are:
1) Another redhead rebuild. $$$ (1 year warranty)
2) Dmax store sells a new box. $$$$ (3 year warranty)
3) The six bolt boxes discussed here: Discussion Link
4) Parts store rebuilds.
Would a weak PS pump contribute to any of this?
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