Okay great thanks guys. Sounds like a pain but hey wish I woulda known all this before. And I'm taking it to a body shop with a recovery/refrigerant/oiling machine
Best brand of AC compressor
- Thread starter zakkb787
- Start date
So don't put the new accumulator on until I'm at the shops and ready for it to be vacuumed and charged?
Edit: sorry for all the ignorance and questions. So my plan is to spray brake cleaner through the lines, evaporator, and condenser. Then blow them out with air. Then put it all back together. We have a vacuum pump here at the house. So vacuum it for a few hours. Can I just pour oil into the compressor? If so I can just put the r134 in here as we have a canister of it. But if not take it to a shop, install the accumulator in the parking lot. And have them vacuum it for a bit then put 134 and a few ounces of oil in it. Correct?
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Any system that uses an orifice tube uses an accumulator. An accumulator contains a dessicant in it to catch and hold any stray moisture in the system, but it also acts as a storage vessel/buffer. An accumulator holds liquid refrigerant in it to act as a cushion in an orifice tube system. With a fixxed orifice at low rpm's you have to be able to hold extra liquid refrigerant so when rpm's increase, the compressor doesn't just pull the low side down and rapid cycle(hence the term accumulator as it accumulates excess charge for low rpm operation, then when rpm's increase there is extra refrigerant to keep the compressor running). It also has a buffer design in it to prevent too much liquid refrigerant from entering the line going back to the compressor. A drier is much smaller by design as they are typically installed in the high pressure liquid line with an thermal expansion valve of some kind to vary refrigerant flow across the rom range vs a fixxed orifice. So it doesn't need to hold but a very small charge and a dessicant in it, and no need for a liquid buffer since it is not installed in the suction line.
As to which brand, if it's for an 02, putti,g an ac delco r6 back in is just asking for trouble in the future. Ac delco, delphi, and most of the others sell an oem design r6 where the center section is not pinned. They have earned the name belly leakers because of this. GPD makes a compressor that looks almost identical, but it has a pinned center section to stop the belly leaking issues, and they also turn easier than a stock r6 for reduced initial loading. I tried a sanden, but like many others of late, it lost the shaft seal in just 2 years. I replaced it with a GPD quite awhile back, and have nothing but good to say about them and all of them I've installed(which is alot more than I can say for ac delco r6's).
As to which brand, if it's for an 02, putti,g an ac delco r6 back in is just asking for trouble in the future. Ac delco, delphi, and most of the others sell an oem design r6 where the center section is not pinned. They have earned the name belly leakers because of this. GPD makes a compressor that looks almost identical, but it has a pinned center section to stop the belly leaking issues, and they also turn easier than a stock r6 for reduced initial loading. I tried a sanden, but like many others of late, it lost the shaft seal in just 2 years. I replaced it with a GPD quite awhile back, and have nothing but good to say about them and all of them I've installed(which is alot more than I can say for ac delco r6's).
Correct, do not install the drier until you are ready to close the sytem. And do not use brake cleen. That will most certainly destroy the barrier wall inside of your refrigerant hoses. You can buy ac flush at most any large parts store. You can use either nitrogen or r-11 if you have access to it to prevent adding moistute to the system when flushing. Or fill the lines with flush, and blow them out with clean compressed air(it needs to be dry air, so make sure you use a compressor with a cooler and water seperator on it). If you don't have access to these kinds of tools, it is best to leave this job to somebody who does. A/C work isn't hard, but you need to be very carefull about introducing moisture. And if there is any question of moisture in the system, you need a pump that can pull down to the double digits at leadt on a micron gauge, and hold the vacuum for at leadt 45 minutes to an hour to boil the mousture out of the system.
FERM. Rock auto has 2 part numbers for GPD compressors. 6512125 and 6511338. Are either of these the correct part?
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The 6511338 is the one thats been on my truck now for several years. Or you can get the 9611824 kit with most everything you need for a few dollars more. The other style is a sanden copy. I had troubles with shaft seals holding up on the sandens, and it is a much louder design. They did cool slightly better at idle, but not as cold running down the road. The sanden style also requires a pag 150 for most applications while the oem style works just fine on most any oil.