Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #1  
Old 05-18-2011, 12:41 PM
khewell khewell is offline
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Default Fuel pressure regulator

Have to change my fuel pressure regulator.
I know it's stuck way down in there...
About how much time does it take to replace
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-19-2011, 06:47 AM
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Wll I took my time ya know a few beers so it took me about 2 1/2 hours. LOL.
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2011, 09:21 AM
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I gotta do mine. This is the best DIY I've seen. It may be on an LB7, but the procedure is similar on all of them.

http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrol...fca-k-fpr.html
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  #4  
Old 05-24-2011, 09:40 AM
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After looking at the DIY article posted, you don't have to remove the t-stat housing and drain the coolant. You just need to remove small hose from the metal x-over pipe that goes from the t-stat housing to the turbo. You will lose a small amount of coolant but a few rags will soak it up. You also don't need to remove the hot pipe from the turbo to intercooler and you don't need to unplug or remove the bail connectors or any wiring on the driver side valve covers.
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  #5  
Old 05-25-2011, 05:30 AM
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yeah hes right, make sure you have a torx set thats in good shape
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Old 05-31-2011, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micheal Tomac View Post
After looking at the DIY article posted, you don't have to remove the t-stat housing and drain the coolant. You just need to remove small hose from the metal x-over pipe that goes from the t-stat housing to the turbo. You will lose a small amount of coolant but a few rags will soak it up. You also don't need to remove the hot pipe from the turbo to intercooler and you don't need to unplug or remove the bail connectors or any wiring on the driver side valve covers.
Thanks for letting us know about these shortcuts.
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Old 05-31-2011, 02:21 PM
ku 808 ku 808 is offline
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I just did mine yesterday and it was a pain lbz are alittle diffrent worst when you have twins
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ku 808 View Post
I just did mine yesterday and it was a pain lbz are alittle diffrent worst when you have twins
I'd say so!
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:25 PM
ku 808 ku 808 is offline
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And it has to come back out the new one is worst now she is surging in idle befor only small kind when coming to a stop. F... owell I guess its part of the game.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micheal Tomac View Post
After looking at the DIY article posted, you don't have to remove the t-stat housing and drain the coolant. You just need to remove small hose from the metal x-over pipe that goes from the t-stat housing to the turbo. You will lose a small amount of coolant but a few rags will soak it up. You also don't need to remove the hot pipe from the turbo to intercooler and you don't need to unplug or remove the bail connectors or any wiring on the driver side valve covers.
My reply from a similar thread over on DP...

I had dedicated my Saturday morning to doing this, looked down into the abyss where the fpr resides, and saw the intake crossover tube in the way. I went over my plan of attack and just couldn't muster up the balls to jump into it. I put the mouthpiece back on and here I am today searching again for LLY specific fpr replacement tips and tricks.

"Book time" says this is a 4.2 hour job. I want to do this myself in a bad way. I printed off the GM LLY fpr replacement procedure, but it doesn't say anything about getting around that intake pipe.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf FPR Replacement.pdf (502.7 KB, 84 views)
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2011, 01:37 PM
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the neck that comes off the y pipe is got a rubber O ring that you just pry out then push back in after your done. I did a lly last month.
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CREATURES OF THE NIGHT BES RACING
Carrillo rods, Hamilton valve springs, ATI damper, 60% bigger nozzles, head studs, S475 turbo, 4inch lift kit, ATS dual fueler, ATS Tranny,Bunch of SD parts,lobonte water meth, NOS,6inch stack, AD 165gph,
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2011, 09:27 PM
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...just be carefull putting the y bridge inlet back in, the o rings fit around the inlet a little lose and they can get snagged easy going into the y bridge, causing a tear or broken o ring which is no good. at least the LBZ is that way, Havent done a whole lot on the LLY
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2011, 07:23 AM
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great thread. sub.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadracer37 View Post
...just be carefull putting the y bridge inlet back in, the o rings fit around the inlet a little lose and they can get snagged easy going into the y bridge, causing a tear or broken o ring which is no good. at least the LBZ is that way, Havent done a whole lot on the LLY
Any time I rebuild a pump,cylinder or stuff with orings I use some Permatex engine assembly lube. Its like a white grease and i just give the O rings a good coating. That should make it slide right back in the Y bridge and seal up nice!
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02 extra cab long bed
Thanks: CRANK IT UP DIESEL PPE ATS SUPER DIESEL MCRAT RACING
CREATURES OF THE NIGHT BES RACING
Carrillo rods, Hamilton valve springs, ATI damper, 60% bigger nozzles, head studs, S475 turbo, 4inch lift kit, ATS dual fueler, ATS Tranny,Bunch of SD parts,lobonte water meth, NOS,6inch stack, AD 165gph,
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2011, 03:58 PM
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Took me and a buddy an hour and a half.. the bottom hex bolt took prolly 20 mins by itself to get out. Its gm's idea of a sick joke.
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