just three bolts???

[Hot COCOAL]

So if i was to remove the three 17mm bolts that hold the turbo down will it move toward the firewall say 2 inches?

Reason being, i need to get the y bridge out.
I cant get to the bottom back bolts and the top back bolt wont come out cuz the compressor housing of the 4094vgt is in the way of extracting the bolt

So if i pull he three bolts that hold the turbo, what else would need to be loosened?
I figured the up pipes and downpipe should be it? Right?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Heres the All Season Diesel y bridge, with a little elbow grease(polish), that will replace the stocker

Lots more flow, directed toward the runners

The two o-rings seem like pretty weak sauce, they were all that was keeping the y bridge elbow in place

 

[doug9940]

Turbo oil lines and the water lines.....

 

[paint94979]

How far do you want to push your engine? I would have spent the money elsewhere

 

[dmax711]

thats a nice piece !

 

[Polaris7x]

unless you have small hands with long ass fingers id sugest doing what your doing, i put my new bridge in when my turbo was in and had a fantastic time doing it to the point where i took a few hour break in between. I have the profab and will be switching over to the all season eventually if i ever tear apart the truck again, atleast you wont have to worry about blowing the stupid tube out anymore

 

[yellowchevy]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the 4094VGT inter grated into the pedestal just like the stock turbo?
If so you'll have to remove/unbolt the up pipes regardless.

Remove the downpipe, up pipes, oil lines, and water lines; you'll be set then.
Just my thinking being I'm not standing over you engine bay.

Good luck

Yellowchevy

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Paint-
Yeah, well, i didnt want to buy this right now, but, for some reason the y bridge horn/elbow popped out 2 time in one week, once while data logging boosted launches and w.o.t runs(simulated 1/4), then during a downshift in the street tune, probably cuz big twin cleaned out all the egr and pcv goo that was holding it together:rofl:

Tryin to get to that damn thing is a big bisnotch, rather than screw around with a failing part, i figured replacing it was the best alternative, i already have an egr delete tube with the brace to help prevent this problem, if it weren't for bad luck, I'd have none, and as luck would have it....

I am only pushing 40-42 psi right now and plan to go for more later on, i tow a bunch and play more

Damn what a P.I.T.A!!!!!
Not worth it as a stand alone "upgrade" or "mod" for sure!

To top it all off, notice the connect point, no flange, so my cold pipe needs to get modified, AGAIN, and i just got the damn thing powdercoated too, but, now I'm 3" all the the way to the runners

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Thanks everyone:hug:

Where is the best place/end, to remove the oil and water lines?

 

[xtremebikr04]

Ive seen big improvements from swapping out bridges with proper 3 inch intercooler piping to match. I wouldnt call it a waste of time or money. just my $0.02

 

[paint94979]

Ive seen big improvements from swapping out bridges with proper 3 inch intercooler piping to match. I wouldnt call it a waste of time or money. just my $0.02

In a fully built truck sure it would net some gains but 500-750 hp is it really needed? No

 

[Burn Down]

Your not going to gain 2" just unbolting the turbo.

I built a custom ground down socket to do my y-bridge bolts and a flexible 1/4" extension. You can't get a ton of torque using the flexible extension but I haven't had it leak yet. Tighten the back lower nuts first, then move to the others. You will actually make the two lower rears tighter once the others are tightened. If you are having trouble keeping the nut in the socket use a piece of tape or some grease in the socket to help hold the nut.

If your hell bent on moving the turbo just take it out. By the time you take everything loose to get it to move, it should be ready to come out...

 

[Harbin_22]

My rdl is 100x easier to get in and out with the turbo completely out. I get the front lower ones with a stubby wrench from underneath, in the valley

 

[catman3126]

the bridge can be gotten out without moving the turbo

 

[catman3126]

on the back two lower bolts use a 10mm shallow, a universal joint and a extension long enought to reach up outta there to get a ratchet on. put the extention from the drivers side top bolt down behind the bridge to the pass side bolt and vise versa for the drivers side bolt. the holds are slotted but you almost have to have the nuts off to slide the bridge out. when you put them back on i used a magnet and a small screw driver to spin the nut back on one side and put the nut on the pass side before you put the bridge in. and hold your mouth just right lol hope this helps

 

[xtremebikr04]

In a fully built truck sure it would net some gains but 500-750 hp is it really needed? No

Ive seen gains in trucks with under 600 hp. Same tuning before and after on a tune that couldnt clean up the smoke before had all of it cleaned up by the top of second gear after. That in itself made me a believer other than the fact the truck was more responsive and had a noticable gain in power from just the seat of the pants.

 

[catman3126]

I saw a big drop in egt's but i did profab manifolds, up pipes down pipe 3" pass side boost tube and a 3" bridge. and a BIG difference in exhaust sounds.

 

[RickDLance]

We've had lots of people report gains with our version. Believe it or not most say that the turbo seems to spool quicker and the tires light quicker.

 

[JoshH]

I use a long wobble extension and short 1/4" drive 10 mm socket to get the lower back bolts. When I put them back in, I use electrical tape to hold the nut into the socket. Don't let the tape wrap around under the flange when you do it, and the socket will pull right off once it starts on the stud. You may have to use a pry bar to move the coolant line around to get on them. For the top back ones, I use a wrench to spin them out. On some trucks (mainly LMMs) the top left bolt won't clear the compressor housing so I take a little saw and cut the head off and spin it out the rest of the way by hand or with a pair of needle nose if it is being stubborn. Then I get a pan head allen bolt that is just a little bit shorter to go back in. I tighten it with a ball end allen wrench. I hope that helps.

 

[blk smoke lb7]

We have done 3 of these now and 1st off its a very nice piece and you can sell you old bridge afterwards to recoop some money.It makes a noticable deeper tone out the exhaust.

We always take it loose and slide it back,on 1, the turbo was removed to be replaced as it was bad.Good luck.