when installing twins

[ChevyDieselLLY]

what are some things i should do to the truck at this time? do i need a 2nd boost gauge, what about dp gauge? my boost gauge i have now is a 60psi one. i dont have head studs the the bottom end is still stock.

just trying to see if there is anything that you may need that isnt in the kit.

thanks

 

[63chevyll]

im sure head studs

 

[stroke250]

no need for studs

 

[SDP]

You should be fine to run it how it is once you install the twins, you can always add the 2nd boost gauge and DP gauge when its convenient. I would go with a DP gauge before you start pushing it hard though just to have an idea of whats going on.

 

[02bigstrokin]

no need for studs

x2, probably wont need them if you stay with single cp3. dp gauge and second boost gauge make dialing in the wategate easier. but you might not have to make any adjustments as trent had them pretty well dialed if the wastegate setting doesnt get touched.

 

[othrgrl]

It's too late, he already has dual fuelers and a mitusa lift pump - but I'm gonna be very conservative with the tuning so he can keep it together.


Rods, cut pistons, head studs.......

Seriously though a drive pressure gauge and a 100 PSI boost gauge would be nice to have for getting it dialed in.

 

[ChevyDieselLLY]

It's too late, he already has dual fuelers and a mitusa lift pump - but I'm gonna be very conservative with the tuning so he can keep it together.


Rods, cut pistons, head studs.......

Seriously though a drive pressure gauge and a 100 PSI boost gauge would be nice to have for getting it dialed in.

still need to install the lift pump too HAHA. well at least now when i go to build my motor i just have to buy rods and pistons.

do i need just one or 2 boost gauges? as far as the drive pressure gauge cant really go out and buy headers and up pipes.. can you tap into the stock one?

i cant wait. oh by the way Dustin i will be in NC on the 18th just after midnight. so once you get everything and have an idea of when it will be done jus let me know so i can find a way out to the shop. thanks again for all the work you have been doing to my truck

 

[othrgrl]

still need to install the lift pump too HAHA. well at least now when i go to build my motor i just have to buy rods and pistons.

do i need just one or 2 boost gauges? as far as the drive pressure gauge cant really go out and buy headers and up pipes.. can you tap into the stock one?

i cant wait. oh by the way Dustin i will be in NC on the 18th just after midnight. so once you get everything and have an idea of when it will be done jus let me know so i can find a way out to the shop. thanks again for all the work you have been doing to my truck

Since you already have the 60 PSI boost gauge you may as well use it between turbos and add the 100 PSI after the intercooler. I can tap the stock manifold for drive pressure, no problem. Give me a call on the 19th.

 

[Subman]

Depending on who does your tuning, (it appears Othrgrl is doing it) would be the determining factor if you need a second boost gauge or not. If you do your own then I would for sure, especially if you are just learning to tune twins. I found that you want your total boost pressure gauge and your drive pressure gauge to be the same as far as what they are, I'd go with 100 psi on both of them. That way you can easily tell if they are about the same as the needles will ramp up about the same if they are tuned correctly. Be sure to get enough of a heat sink coil, (we use copper tubing) to disapate the heat and also small in diameter so you don't get a lot of wild fluxation in the gauge reading. Some guys also install a filter to keep from sooting up the line, but I never have done that and have never had one foul on me.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Be sure to get enough of a heat sink coil, (we use copper tubing) to disapate the heat and also small in diameter so you don't get a lot of wild fluxation in the gauge reading. Some guys also install a filter to keep from sooting up the line, but I never have done that and have never had one foul on me.

The reason I dont use a coil system anymore is mine would freeze in the winter from condensation....Probably not a issue in warmer climates

I really dont see the point as the line doesnt get that hot anyways JMHO

I dont use a filter either and have not had issues with soot.

 

[ChevyDieselLLY]

thanks for all the info guys.

 

[Subman]

The reason I dont use a coil system anymore is mine would freeze in the winter from condensation....Probably not a issue in warmer climates

I really dont see the point as the line doesnt get that hot anyways JMHO

I dont use a filter either and have not had issues with soot.

What do you come off the exhaust manifold with? How do you keep the plastic tube from melting? I'd love to see a picture of your setup. thanks

 

[MadMaxx61]

What do you come off the exhaust manifold with? How do you keep the plastic tube from melting? I'd love to see a picture of your setup. thanks

you still use a copper tube but no coil in it.

 

[sweetdiesel]

What do you come off the exhaust manifold with? How do you keep the plastic tube from melting? I'd love to see a picture of your setup. thanks

I come off with 1/8th or maybe 1/4" Cant remember SS tubing

After 6" of that it is not hot enough to melt butter

pics are not the greatest but it goes from the SS tubing to a plastic lined braided hose and then to the sensor

I use this on my LLY for close to 3 years now and Lb7 and have never had any issues


Think of it this way it is not flowing thru the line as its dead ended
If it was flowing or circulating then YES it would see EGTs and melt