what is better for my truck between the PPE fuel rail shim kit or the race valve? will it be detrimental to put the race valve in a daily driver? which is easier to install?
whats better???
- Thread starter c_murray7313
- Start date
The shim should be all you need unless you have thrown a lot of 1093's, then I would use the race valve. I think a lot of people have used the race valve on dailey drivers without any consequences.
I think the race valve would be easier to install.
I think the race valve would be easier to install.
The shim kit is a pretty sure way of fixing the problem.
The race valve is a damn sure way of fixing the problem.
Also, the race valve is easier and faster to install. Also you don't have to worry about messing up your stock vavle if you ever need it again.
The race valve is a damn sure way of fixing the problem.
Also, the race valve is easier and faster to install. Also you don't have to worry about messing up your stock vavle if you ever need it again.
throwing 2 cents... I agree with the race valve it solved my issues early on as well. I did the FPRV as well cause i didn't understand... turns out it's been a good thing with the CP-3 mods that are kicking up volumns/pressures.
Anyway if i had nothing to do on a Saturday, I would do the same things all over again. Both the valve and pressure relief.
FYI, I would search for a "horseshoe" shaped boxed wrench for the blasted glow plug knuckle buster POS. I didn't look at his sig it could be diff on his truck.
Anyway if i had nothing to do on a Saturday, I would do the same things all over again. Both the valve and pressure relief.
FYI, I would search for a "horseshoe" shaped boxed wrench for the blasted glow plug knuckle buster POS. I didn't look at his sig it could be diff on his truck.
i dont understand
you did both?mine has 3 shims in it and has yet to leak, however if i did it again i would buy the race valve
thanks guys. i was thinking the race valve just for ease of installation. just wanted to make sure there wouldnt be any ill effects. im going for the race valve. thanks again.
chris
chris
i dont understand
mine has 3 shims in it and has yet to leak, however if i did it again i would buy the race valve
I call the chamfered inverted cone shaped thingy at the end of the rail (we drill out the hole or replace it with PPE's part) the valve, I'm wrong, it's just how i understand it. I installed 2 washers in the FPRV (the part/parts that resist or bleed off excessive pressure) and installed the larger inlet? Is that more correct? Feel free to straighten me out.
I call the chamfered inverted cone shaped thingy at the end of the rail (we drill out the hole or replace it with PPE's part) the valve, I'm wrong, it's just how i understand it. I installed 2 washers in the FPRV (the part/parts that resist or bleed off excessive pressure) and installed the larger inlet? Is that more correct? Feel free to straighten me out.
James
i think im catching what your throwing
you installed the washers in the fuel rail pop valve and the bigger fuel inlet? correct?
James
i think im catching what your throwing
you installed the washers in the fuel rail pop valve and the bigger fuel inlet? correct?
I think he may be taking about this
http://www.pacificp.com/index.php?m...id=114&zenid=0be77341ca81aef4d5136a16f24aba43
i havent installed it yet larry, i bought it and it is sitting on a shelf in the garage. deer season is over next week so ill get around to it then. thanks for asking though.
chris
James
i think im catching what your throwing
you installed the washers in the fuel rail pop valve and the bigger fuel inlet? correct?
Yep.
yea yea... das dah one
I've run both, and recommend either one. Blue was one of the first shimmed trucks, and Casper was one of the first race valved trucks, and neither has had a problem.
I have a PPE shim kit in my tool box. I was looking at the fuel rail today and it looks like a pain in the a$$ to install. The fuel rail dont look easy to take off.
you shouldnt have to take off the rail,unless you do something wrong
use good tools and you shouldnt have any probloms
FWIW i used 3 shims in mine, i would atleast use 2
I was shown a neat trick by Ted at MPL Motorsports on how to change them. If you have a stubby wrench-preferably a ratcheting style, that is straight, no bend in the wrench, you can use a LONG handled square sided pry bar to remove the valve.
Basically, put the wrench on th FPRV.
Put the pry bar on the top side of the wrench and wedge the other side under the glow plug bracket and then,making sure the wrench is on good and square, pry down.
This will start to loosen the plug.
Keep repeating this until it comes out.
It's so easy it doesn't feel right at first-I thought I was stripping the head off of mine but it was actually coming loose!!
20 min=done!!
A little tip, you may want to replace the o-ring. Sometimes they break when you put them back in and leak-depending on how old they are. I don't know why PPE doesn't give you a new 2 cent o-ring with their $50 plug.
Basically, put the wrench on th FPRV.
Put the pry bar on the top side of the wrench and wedge the other side under the glow plug bracket and then,making sure the wrench is on good and square, pry down.
This will start to loosen the plug.
Keep repeating this until it comes out.
It's so easy it doesn't feel right at first-I thought I was stripping the head off of mine but it was actually coming loose!!
20 min=done!!
A little tip, you may want to replace the o-ring. Sometimes they break when you put them back in and leak-depending on how old they are. I don't know why PPE doesn't give you a new 2 cent o-ring with their $50 plug.
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like other said race valve goes in within 20 mins shim one in 40 mins, change rail in 1 hr might be able to do it in 40 mins now since I have done it 3 times lol.