LB7: What next?

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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So what do you all think I should do next? I floated a lot of ideas over the past year, but more than a few of them didnt pan out. Was fun trying though.

You all knew my goal this past year, and thanks to all of you, Im only .10 away from the "stock turbo" top spot..and God-willing, that should fall next spring. But what about the unthinkable....an 11.9x sec run? Possible? Crazy?

My initial thoughts are that I have enough fuel, CP3 and reg are keeping up just fine, although maybe an LBZ pump might help?
Suspension should be fine, although rear QA1s are a possibility.

Obviously, airflow needs improving now, but in keeping the "stock turbo/engine" goal, its not going to be easy .
So to that end, I think:
1) uppipes are a must.
2) 3.5" downpipe
3) Not sure if larger I/C piping would help.
4) PnP the turbo, but keeping the same wheels/geometry.
5) adjustable wastegate

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
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TheBac

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Will be interesting to see what a 3.5" downpipe will cost

Would've been cheap if my design wouldve fit. :(

I already talked to Rick about pricing, and its not all that bad.

Darius...forgot about Drag radials. If they were just made 30" tall. Only other thing I can do is rollpan for weight reduction.
 
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paint94979

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Sep 18, 2006
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Would've been cheap if my design wouldve fit. :(

I already talked to Rick about pricing, and its not all that bad.

Darius...forgot about Drag radials. If they were just made 30" tall. Only other thing I can do is rollpan for weight reduction.

The M&H Drag Radials that lots of us run are good up to 120 mph witth 3.73's... that is the 275/55/16 on PYO's you should look into it.
 
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Noreaster

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Jun 13, 2007
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Would've been cheap if my design wouldve fit. :(

I already talked to Rick about pricing, and its not all that bad.

Darius...forgot about Drag radials. If they were just made 30" tall. Only other thing I can do is rollpan for weight reduction.

I was going to ask about the downpipe you made, thats too bad
Pm me the cost
 

bigbird

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Would've been cheap if my design wouldve fit. :(

I already talked to Rick about pricing, and its not all that bad.

Darius...forgot about Drag radials. If they were just made 30" tall. Only other thing I can do is rollpan for weight reduction.


Mickey thompson makes a 29 and M&H makes a 29.5 although it's wide. 14 inches i believe.
 
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SteveFord

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I would do the lbz pump for sure. Up pipes too. Can you make a list of everything you've done so far so we can see what else might work for you?
 

TrentNell

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Jul 7, 2008
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I would for shure do the up-pipes and down pipe , The LBZ cp3 is a good idea also but its alot of work for minimal gain IMOP , and your rail pressure was holding good , def try more pulse width next time out . Drag radials are a must also because yes your 60 was great but if you could leave harder even if the 60 stayed the same you 1/8 mile is going to get faster and the consistancy they give is a huge plus also .

Tom I would love to get a S300 on your truck and a set of injectors , if you ever need to due injectors on your truck Tom, some 30%-45% overs would really help in the power dept and EGT's .
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
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Would've been cheap if my design wouldve fit. :(

I already talked to Rick about pricing, and its not all that bad.

Darius...forgot about Drag radials. If they were just made 30" tall. Only other thing I can do is rollpan for weight reduction.

i know a guy trying to sell me some 31 inch tall slicks for the van
 

2500HeavyDuty

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Down pipe would help alot, and up pipes and headers. From there you can look into cooling your air better.

What intake do you have?

also do you have the ppe boost valve or a bans big head wg?
 
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paint94979

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Sep 18, 2006
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Down pipe would help alot, and up pipes and headers. From there you can look into cooling your air better.

What intake do you have?

also do you have the ppe boost valve or a bans big head wg?

Up Pipes are going to be the best bang for the buck... i wouldn't do headers. Very impressive though Tom
 

TheBac

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I would do the lbz pump for sure. Up pipes too. Can you make a list of everything you've done so far so we can see what else might work for you?

Here goes....please dont laugh.

Engine mods:
Silverline 304 4" exhaust
S&B intake ( draws from downward in front of tire)
Superdiesel modded intake horn
Superdiesel modded LB7 regulator
FASS 150 pump only
PPE boost valve
BD manifold
stock everything else

Tuning: Duramaxtuner "12.40 LB7" racetune will be used. Will ask him to tweak the tune if airflow mods require it.

Transmission: 01 TCM OS, Merchant built, Precision ML converter, Tcase braced

Suspension: QA1 front shocks, Caltracs, overloads removed, Toyo Proxes 275/70/16 on PY0s, tierods and steering addressed.

I ran the 12.28s with the IAH reinstalled, so figure I have to remove that again.
 
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SteveFord

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Nothing to laugh about there Tom! Impressive going that fast and quick with the mods done to the truck.
 

TheBac

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Take my word for it, Steve....I have no idea how. :hmm::dontknow: Merchant and Nick cant figure it out either.
 
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2500HeavyDuty

Book 'em, Danno!
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Tom how fast did it run with no track prep? and what is done for the prep maybe something else can be done to help it out.

I think the wastegate would be a good mod, the ppe bost valve acts amost like a small boost leak and im under the impression it raises driver pressures but i have not tested it.
 

SteveFord

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It's a lb7! Makes me wish I would have kept mine sometimes. I thought I read somewhere that the lb7 injectors flow more fuel than any other model. So i was thinking if you did the lbz pump to increase or hold higher pressure with a little more pulse width it would help keep the atomization in check. Then get some manifolds and up pipes, or just up pipes and port and polish the stock turbo like you want to do to help with the more fuel added. Then get some drag radials and let her rip.
 
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TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Danny, track prep at my "home track" is actually pretty good. The waterbox guy came up to me at closing time last time out and we talked for about 20 minutes. The track ownership LOVES fast trucks! He tries very hard to NOT water the box based on what vehicle is coming up, like our trucks. They give ample room to avoid the box, too. The starting line gets a fresh spray of VHT about every 3-4 hours or more depending on # of vehicles during TnT, and I found if I move toward the inside of either lane I got a much better bite. Its like reading lanes during bowling, and I finally figured it out. I also figured out the best way to stage and launch my truck this last time out.....it was like a lightbulb went on and I finally realized what I had to do. :thumb: I was launching great on a 50* day, when cars were spinning and bitching about launching.
I dont ever want to think of running on a bare track....I did that at Martin (US131) and about wrecked the truck at the line by wheelhopping so much.


Steve, LB7 or not, it doesnt equate that I run .2-.3 faster than any other truck running the same tuning. Its just nuts how it runs. I have no idea what was done to the truck before I bought it, other than it towed trailers around Texas. Id bet if we had the injectors checked, they'd be some % over stock, although nothing about the truck looks like its ever been messed with. Its the only thing I can think of to explain it. I was holding ~23500psi rail except during shifts last time out.
 
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