to reset the valves on the driver side?
I set them a little looser than I thought I did when I put this motor together; the driver side is a little "ticky" when cold.
My water pump is completely shot (original factory water pump, 107k miles, dont remind me how I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN to replace it as preventative maintenance when the motor was out of the truck 6,000 miles ago
). It started leaking out the weep hole hard core like 5 days before I graduated and came home. I didnt have time to replace the water pump, going crazy every day/night during senior week seemed like it would be more fun!! Its a 6 hour drive from school to home and I had to stop every 20 miles to refill the surge tank. Basically my truck has 100% water in the cooling system now because all the dex-cool leaked out and just gradually got diluted with the water I would refill it with...it would have been pointless to keep refilling it with dex-cool; I think I went through like 15 gallon-jugs of spring water.
My intake manifold bridge/elbow is basically held together with bailing twine and has massive boost leaks, oil/PCV sludge is everywhere, and a whole bunch of other stuff is ...... rigged because I was so rushed putting the motor back in the truck in January.
So now that Im home and have some time off before I start a real job, Im gonna tear into it and fix EVERYTHING (water pump, valves, intake, etc) the RIGHT way.
Since my motor has been out of the truck twice Im not used to doing "involved" maintenance/R&R of stuff with the motor IN the truck; I only know how to R&R everything with the motor on a stand. :rofl: So therefore I have no idea what needs to come off to replace what.
Can the valves be reset by ONLY removing the upper valve cover? Do the injectors have to come out to remove the upper valve cover? Im looking at it and it looks like, to remove the [driver side] upper valve cover, the wiring harness bale connectors, upper rad hose/pipe/stat housing, battery junction block, and driver side boost tube have to come out...correct?
maybe once I fix all this stuff Ill find the courage to put a tune in it. ..its been running a stock tune since I blew up the built motor back in october.
ben
I set them a little looser than I thought I did when I put this motor together; the driver side is a little "ticky" when cold.
My water pump is completely shot (original factory water pump, 107k miles, dont remind me how I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN to replace it as preventative maintenance when the motor was out of the truck 6,000 miles ago
). It started leaking out the weep hole hard core like 5 days before I graduated and came home. I didnt have time to replace the water pump, going crazy every day/night during senior week seemed like it would be more fun!! Its a 6 hour drive from school to home and I had to stop every 20 miles to refill the surge tank. Basically my truck has 100% water in the cooling system now because all the dex-cool leaked out and just gradually got diluted with the water I would refill it with...it would have been pointless to keep refilling it with dex-cool; I think I went through like 15 gallon-jugs of spring water. My intake manifold bridge/elbow is basically held together with bailing twine and has massive boost leaks, oil/PCV sludge is everywhere, and a whole bunch of other stuff is ...... rigged because I was so rushed putting the motor back in the truck in January.
So now that Im home and have some time off before I start a real job, Im gonna tear into it and fix EVERYTHING (water pump, valves, intake, etc) the RIGHT way.
Since my motor has been out of the truck twice Im not used to doing "involved" maintenance/R&R of stuff with the motor IN the truck; I only know how to R&R everything with the motor on a stand. :rofl: So therefore I have no idea what needs to come off to replace what.
Can the valves be reset by ONLY removing the upper valve cover? Do the injectors have to come out to remove the upper valve cover? Im looking at it and it looks like, to remove the [driver side] upper valve cover, the wiring harness bale connectors, upper rad hose/pipe/stat housing, battery junction block, and driver side boost tube have to come out...correct?
maybe once I fix all this stuff Ill find the courage to put a tune in it.
..its been running a stock tune since I blew up the built motor back in october.ben
Last edited:
