My buddy who is a mechanic stated a year or two ago he was seeing alot of Duramax's coming in with rotted fuel/brake lines and glow plugs that are stuck in the head (some breaking off). The liquid ice melter they are using out here is NASTY!
That being said, I had a glowplug failure the first day I owned the truck and all 8 were replaced under warrantly (luckily did not have the tip fall into the head like the gentleman's truck next to me)
Last year I asked the tech if he used anti-seize when installing the new glowplugs and he said no. I then sent the truck in to have all 8 glowplugs removed and reinstalled with a healthy dose of anti-sieze. When I went to pick up the truck they stated one was tough coming out and sounded like the threads were galled when it was pulled out. They replaced that one glowplug and put the rest back in.
Fast forward to this year. Check engine light came on a couple weeks ago, checked for code (number 3 glowplug failed). I bought a full set and decided to replace all 8. Passenger's side (where 3 was) was a piece of cake. Driver's side was a little tighter (especially by the steering shaft), and all but one unthreaded by hand once loosened. Number 6 was a PITA to turn and sounded horrible coming out (the screaching sound it made as I unscrewed it). Even after it was unthreaded I had to use a pair of vice grips to PULL and TWIST it out.
I noticed all the bodies of the other 7 were CLEAN and you could read the part number, voltage, etc etched on the GP body, but the one that was tough to get out was "cruddy/rusty". I was able to thread one of the old ones in with some resistance to that bore (and noticed it deposited debris on the body of the GP).
Somehow it looked as if debris and/or corrosion occured in the bore and locked the GP in place. I mic'd the dimensions of the body, the threads, etc and was able to grab some drill bits that were just shy of the ID of the threads in the head. As expected the drill bit fell into the good holes but not the one that was "bad". I put some grease on the bit and threaded into the "bad" hole by hand. To my amazement there was a ton dirt that came out (kinda like cleaning an open threaded hole on an engine block thats been collecting grime over the years). Any idea where the grime would come from? And any idea why one would be that way and not the rest?
I used a shop vac and a homemade suction tube to clean out the bore and clean the threads. I put a light coat of antisieze on the body and threads (not tip) and was able to thread it in by hand (luckily it didn't ruin the threads in the head). Cleared the stored code and started truck with no issues or lights.
Anybody else run into this.
Also I'm ASSuming the GP seals to the cylinder at the end of the body, and I was thinking it might not have sealed, but if that was the case I would have expected to see signs of combustion (black soot) but that did not seem to be the case (as it looked more like dirt/corrosion/rust).
That being said, I had a glowplug failure the first day I owned the truck and all 8 were replaced under warrantly (luckily did not have the tip fall into the head like the gentleman's truck next to me)
Last year I asked the tech if he used anti-seize when installing the new glowplugs and he said no. I then sent the truck in to have all 8 glowplugs removed and reinstalled with a healthy dose of anti-sieze. When I went to pick up the truck they stated one was tough coming out and sounded like the threads were galled when it was pulled out. They replaced that one glowplug and put the rest back in.
Fast forward to this year. Check engine light came on a couple weeks ago, checked for code (number 3 glowplug failed). I bought a full set and decided to replace all 8. Passenger's side (where 3 was) was a piece of cake. Driver's side was a little tighter (especially by the steering shaft), and all but one unthreaded by hand once loosened. Number 6 was a PITA to turn and sounded horrible coming out (the screaching sound it made as I unscrewed it). Even after it was unthreaded I had to use a pair of vice grips to PULL and TWIST it out.
I noticed all the bodies of the other 7 were CLEAN and you could read the part number, voltage, etc etched on the GP body, but the one that was tough to get out was "cruddy/rusty". I was able to thread one of the old ones in with some resistance to that bore (and noticed it deposited debris on the body of the GP).
Somehow it looked as if debris and/or corrosion occured in the bore and locked the GP in place. I mic'd the dimensions of the body, the threads, etc and was able to grab some drill bits that were just shy of the ID of the threads in the head. As expected the drill bit fell into the good holes but not the one that was "bad". I put some grease on the bit and threaded into the "bad" hole by hand. To my amazement there was a ton dirt that came out (kinda like cleaning an open threaded hole on an engine block thats been collecting grime over the years). Any idea where the grime would come from? And any idea why one would be that way and not the rest?
I used a shop vac and a homemade suction tube to clean out the bore and clean the threads. I put a light coat of antisieze on the body and threads (not tip) and was able to thread it in by hand (luckily it didn't ruin the threads in the head). Cleared the stored code and started truck with no issues or lights.
Anybody else run into this.
Also I'm ASSuming the GP seals to the cylinder at the end of the body, and I was thinking it might not have sealed, but if that was the case I would have expected to see signs of combustion (black soot) but that did not seem to be the case (as it looked more like dirt/corrosion/rust).
