Wehrli Intake kit GOOD/BAD ????

cdbright

JUST RENT IT
Dec 16, 2008
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Salt Lake City, UT
Wehrli 100337 4" Intake Kit, looks nice with the powder coating color of your choice, but i have always went with S&B or Banks in the past .

Any insight?
 

cdbright

JUST RENT IT
Dec 16, 2008
1,010
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Salt Lake City, UT
i understand it is just air flow, but you never know with all the aftermarket stuff out there sometimes there is just odd issues with simple parts.:eek:
 

SAC owner

New member
Aug 18, 2017
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HSP and Wherli intakes are trash. Yea they look nice. They just suck hot air from the fan.

Do you have any data to back that up?

Reason I ask is I have a open air intake from a WCfab compound kit, The intake temp is only 10-20* warmer than ambient temps. and that filter sets right the path of fan wash.

On another unrelated note the stock intercooler works very well as the y bridge carries temps 10-15* different than intake charge air.
 

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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TX of course
Do you have any data to back that up?



Reason I ask is I have a open air intake from a WCfab compound kit, The intake temp is only 10-20* warmer than ambient temps. and that filter sets right the path of fan wash.



On another unrelated note the stock intercooler works very well as the y bridge carries temps 10-15* different than intake charge air.



Not that I agree with GM but the data can be easily skewed. Just like yours. I don’t see intake temperatures 10* over Ambient from guys running stock intakes that pull outside air from the fender.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MAXX IT OUT

<<<IT WORKS
Mar 1, 2013
1,780
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Des Moines, Iowa
HSP and Wherli intakes are trash. Yea they look nice. They just suck hot air from the fan.
In a NA application your right, but for us it all depends on how efficient your intercooler is. With my open filter, my IAT readings is within 10-20 degrees of ambient whenever I am driving, if it was 50+ degrees more I would start getting concerned. Unless your have a Air to Water intercooler with a ice box, your charge air will never see better then ambient air temp, so as long as your close to ambient, don't really sweet it.
Here are some images of my under hood when I stopped for fuel when towing 10K on a 90ish degree day.
Edit the max my Thermal sensor will read is 302, so temps can be much higher.
 

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gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,072
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Nor cal
Do you have any data to back that up?

Reason I ask is I have a open air intake from a WCfab compound kit, The intake temp is only 10-20* warmer than ambient temps. and that filter sets right the path of fan wash.

On another unrelated note the stock intercooler works very well as the y bridge carries temps 10-15* different than intake charge air.

On a 100* day let it sit and idle then measure your temps.


In a NA application your right, but for us it all depends on how efficient your intercooler is. With my open filter, my IAT readings is within 10-20 degrees of ambient whenever I am driving, if it was 50+ degrees more I would start getting concerned. Unless your have a Air to Water intercooler with a ice box, your charge air will never see better then ambient air temp, so as long as your close to ambient, don't really sweet it.
Here are some images of my under hood when I stopped for fuel when towing 10K on a 90ish degree day.
Edit the max my Thermal sensor will read is 302, so temps can be much higher.


Just like the LLY where one of the fixes of over heating is to install an LBZ mouth piece and intake that’s sealed to the fender where it doesn’t get hot air from the fan.
 

SAC owner

New member
Aug 18, 2017
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On a 100* day let it sit and idle then measure your temps.



Just like the LLY where one of the fixes of over heating is to install an LBZ mouth piece and intake that’s sealed to the fender where it doesn’t get hot air from the fan.



I really don't see how idling the truck and it heat soaking makes one bit of difference, also why are you idling the truck for long on a 100* day makes no sense. short of it is it is no affected as much as you think.

Also that's not why the lly had over heating issues, the issue was that the mouthpiece was inefficient and caused high EGT due to lack of air flow not temp.
 

Bdsankey

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Feb 1, 2018
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Larsen, Wisconsin
On a 100* day let it sit and idle then measure your temps.





Just like the LLY where one of the fixes of over heating is to install an LBZ mouth piece and intake that’s sealed to the fender where it doesn’t get hot air from the fan.


Idling the truck makes no sense as it is not under load. Sure it pulls hot air in at idle as it has nowhere to go. Under normal conditions driving I see 10-15F hotter than ambient with my S&B.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
4,166
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Larsen, Wisconsin
i understand it is just air flow, but you never know with all the aftermarket stuff out there sometimes there is just odd issues with simple parts.:eek:

The WCFab and HSP kits IMO flow better and simply look better. The S&B mouthpiece isn't a bad piece but IMO the WCFab/HSP counterparts are much cleaner/nicer looking and arguably have much better/more laminar flow.

I wouldn't be worried about under hood temps. If you are, go with the HSP as it is more "sealed" than the WCFab.
 

MAXX IT OUT

<<<IT WORKS
Mar 1, 2013
1,780
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Des Moines, Iowa
On a 100* day let it sit and idle then measure your temps.
Can you share yours? At idle on a 100 degree day your IAT might stay at 100 but what is your charge air temp? As I said before, your intercooler has to be efficient or it will heat soak due to lack of airflow and your temp will go up irregardless of your IAT.



Just like the LLY where one of the fixes of over heating is to install an LBZ mouth piece and intake that’s sealed to the fender where it doesn’t get hot air from the fan.
What one of the two is the bigger contributor to the fix? I installed a intake horn on a LLY after a S&B intake was installed for a while and the owner said there was no noticeable change with the intake, but a when the intake horn went on, he said that it was noticeable. Granted this was with general performance, he wasn't having any overheating issues.
 
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gmduramax

Shits broke
Jun 12, 2008
4,072
248
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Nor cal
I really don't see how idling the truck and it heat soaking makes one bit of difference, also why are you idling the truck for long on a 100* day makes no sense. short of it is it is no affected as much as you think.

Also that's not why the lly had over heating issues, the issue was that the mouthpiece was inefficient and caused high EGT due to lack of air flow not temp.

Idling the truck makes no sense as it is not under load. Sure it pulls hot air in at idle as it has nowhere to go. Under normal conditions driving I see 10-15F hotter than ambient with my S&B.

I mean idling the truck on a hot day and trying to spool the turbo, let’s say at like the track ;)


Can you share yours? At idle on a 100 degree day your IAT might stay at 100 but what is your charge air temp? As I said before, your intercooler has to be efficient or it will heat soak due to lack of airflow and your temp will go up irregardless of your IAT.




What one of the two is the bigger contributor to the fix? I installed a intake horn on a LLY after a S&B intake was installed for a while and the owner said there was no noticeable change with the intake, but a when the intake horn went on, he said that it was noticeable. Granted this was with general performance, he wasn't having any overheating issues.


At idle 100* ambient. 160* intake temp. Didn’t check temp going into the motor. With a 100% sealed intake my intake temp dropped to 105* and my turbo spooled faster. Intake temp is a big deal when trying to spool.


Gm decided to seal the intakes to the fender and then on the L5P they added a hood scoop. That’s an awful amount of money for them to spend trying to drop intake air temp.
 

SAC owner

New member
Aug 18, 2017
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I mean idling the truck on a hot day and trying to spool the turbo, let’s say at like the track ;).

I really don't understand this thought process either. turn off the truck if you are waiting, on top of that I really don't thing you will see much power loss over what you are seeing I bet it would be hard to see on a dyno as well..
 

WVRigrat05

Wound for sound
Jan 1, 2011
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French Creek, West Virginia
I really don't understand this thought process either. turn off the truck if you are waiting, on top of that I really don't thing you will see much power loss over what you are seeing I bet it would be hard to see on a dyno as well..

I’m the guy that has an open intake and let’s my truck idle hours on end on hot days, when you first get going it is laggy and smokes worse, but IMO, if you’re idling on a hot day, I don’t care what I take you have it’s going to get heat soaked.
 

SAC owner

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Aug 18, 2017
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I’m the guy that has an open intake and let’s my truck idle hours on end on hot days, when you first get going it is laggy and smokes worse, but IMO, if you’re idling on a hot day, I don’t care what I take you have it’s going to get heat soaked.

Why, what is the reasoning?
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
In your case , non race truck , DD , if we are choosing between the two its HSP , only because I just talked to the man that has devoted the last 13 years to cooling duramaxes , ENGR 837 , he told me that if you dont get a cold air system that keeps the hot under hood air out of the intake air it is more difficult to keep eng coolant temps in check .