When replacing the water pump and you want to replace the harmonic balancer (torsional vibration damper) with a Socal or ATI do you replace the seal...?
LBZ: Water pump
- Thread starter c20elephant
- Start date
We put one on a stock motor after we spun the stock balancer. It never ran so smooth.
I don't see any problem with using one on a stock motor, and if you've got a decent tune, it is good insurance against spinning the balancer.
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I don't see any problem with using one on a stock motor, and if you've got a decent tune, it is good insurance against spinning the balancer.
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It wouldn't hurt to replace the seal, especially if it's high milage. But the socal or ATI damper use the same seal as stock. But I'd say if you have the seal driver I'd replace while your at it.
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The truck has 75,000 miles and has a mild EFI 90HP tune, I'm sure a lot you guys are sensitive to vibration and the Duramax engine has an ever so slight vibration right at about 1800 to 2000 RPM that I have noticed since 2013. I have read a number of post' where an ATI/Socal damper smooths out a stock engine...What about adding pins using EDP's? crank pin installer.?
Concerning the seal, it looks like the seal driver J-44645 is to be used with the front cover off or is there one that can be used while the cover is on the engine.?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTHENTIC-K...al-Installer-6-6L-Diesel-2500HD-/361872183185
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Concerning the seal, it looks like the seal driver J-44645 is to be used with the front cover off or is there one that can be used while the cover is on the engine.?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTHENTIC-K...al-Installer-6-6L-Diesel-2500HD-/361872183185
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I used the seal drivers from merchant automotive when I built my engine. Installed the seal with the cover on. If that seal driver is deep enough looks like you could use the face bearing and bolt (if right treads) to drive the seal in with the cover on.
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Thanks Blackmax, and add an additional pin with this...:thumb:
http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56947
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http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56947
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Man I feel your dilemma with only having 75K on the clock but my mind tells me that when I've got something tore down that far its always good to replace a cheap expendable part just for safe guard. Do you NEED to change it...no...but you'll kick yourself in the ass if it starts leaking in 20K and could have replaced it easily when you had the chance.
Thanks, not sure what it is as I have been chasing this noise for about a year with no leak or overheating. I have read that water pumps can make strange noises being a gear driven pump.
I'll just have to keep that in the in mind. I have replaced the idler pulleys and tensioner pulley plus the AC clutch bearing might be making noise.
I "sighted" the balancer the other day while it was running to see if it was wobbling and it is spinning true..
I have seen the cheap water pumps make a very odd noise so be careful of what you go back with I have had good luck with AC Delco and GM pumps. With only 75k on the front seal and not have the correct tools to pull it and install it i would not mess with it at all The front and rear seals on a duramax seem to be pretty tough and go the distance.
I don't know about rear main seals being tough. I've seen my fair share of rear main seals seeping oil. My 13 lml is included.
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Most the time what you think is the rear seal leaking/weeping is the upper oil pan/rear cover meet at least from what i have seen
I have seen some seeping there, it's kinda a poor design where the rear cover and front cover meet the oil pan. But the ones I'm seeing are dripping out the little hole between the rear engine adapter and the bellhousing.
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OK, Danville pinned or stock configuration left alone. I have read about few welded pumps failing and being how forums is where the bad apples end up and I'm bound to read that, all the bad shit ends up on forums with a little good stuff sprinkled in...
Maybe I'll get lucky and Oreillys carries ACDelco or equal, the idlers and tensioner I purchased from them were Gates made in Canada and you could not tell the difference between them and the originals I removed.
The Kent Moore Front Crankshaft Seal Remover Set J-44644 seal remover is pricey
http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/OTC-J-44644.html
I am running a Danville pinned water pump on my built motor. I also read about a few welding pumps failing.
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Pinned pump, if the seal aint leakin, don't replace it. ive done a lot of water pump jobs and never replaced the front main, with 4x the mileage. I wouldn't go with a fluid damper as its heavier than stock and we already have crank issues, but that is another topic.
Just gonna drive it and keep an eye on it, I read about the Fluid Damper being heavy and coupled with Duramax crank issues I have to agree and ATI/SoCal is what I'm considering
Thanks...