i have a 2004.5 LLY with a leveling kit only, i want to put bigger wheels and tires but don't want to lift the truck higher than it is, does anyone know how big of rim or tire i can put on.thanks
Question: want bigger wheels but don't want it lifted.
- Thread starter fastgreek
- Start date
I would try and keep it 32" tall or under to avoid a bunch of trimming or rubbing. We have 35's under the Lb7 and plow with it in the winter but it took a little more cutting and banging then I would think most would care to do:banghead:
I've got 305's with almost to trimming and I havent touched the bars. It does rub at full lock in reverse though, but I just dont turn full lock in reverse. I didnt care for the hacked up bumper look. I dont know what offset they are though. If you've got a leveling kit I think you could fit 305's with no rubbing. I you clip just the platic valance a little.
i run 17" H2's with 35 12.5's they require some trimming. If you go with wheels that stick farther out you wont be able to run as big of tires.
I have 285/75/16 (almost 33") on my GMC and had to trim the lower valance, not sure how the Chevys are different...265/75/16 will fit easily, but that's only 1 size bigger...I'd try to get 285s to fit, it'll fill up the wheelwell better...
I agree just read the actually height on the brand tire you choose 285's seem to vary from 31's to 33's. with a 4.5 B/S 33's will rub hard, on stock or close to stock B/S, 33's will fit with a few turns on the bars and maybe a bit of trimming of the front valence...
I have 275/65 18 on my gmc and on the wifes chevy, bars cranked slightly on each, and minor valance trimming on both as well
Its mostly the backspacing on the wheels, lots of negative back spacing (deep dish) makes the tire rub the bumper & rear inside of the fender. I have 305 50r 20 toyo at on a 20x10 max negative offset wheel they rub a little even with the torsion bars cranked, fender hammered in, bumper trimmed & bushwackers
. Besides that negative offset & big tires aggrivate the piss poor front end even more, wheel bearings, idler arms, 2 sets of lower ball joints, left upper control arm, BLAH BLAH BLAH.
. Besides that negative offset & big tires aggrivate the piss poor front end even more, wheel bearings, idler arms, 2 sets of lower ball joints, left upper control arm, BLAH BLAH BLAH.
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Like Burn said, it's all in the back space of the wheel. The higher the number, the closer to the truck the tire will be. The lower, the farther out the tire will sit.
Tell us what you have in mind exactly and we can help you out. What size tire do you want to run? Rim diameter doesn't effect the tire size too much.
Tell us what you have in mind exactly and we can help you out. What size tire do you want to run? Rim diameter doesn't effect the tire size too much.
No Lift, no crank on mine. Just some "adjustments" to the front wheel wells.
This is with 375/50-16 on Weld 10" rims with 4.5 backspace. Which are only 33" tall, but very wide.
I also ran 365/65-16 on this truck with the same rims. They were 35" tall, but an inch or so narrower.
This is with 375/50-16 on Weld 10" rims with 4.5 backspace. Which are only 33" tall, but very wide.
I also ran 365/65-16 on this truck with the same rims. They were 35" tall, but an inch or so narrower.
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Care to share what the "adjustments" were Fingers. That is the most wicked lookin tire and wheel setup I've seen on a Dmax.
The front bumper is trimmed back ~3/4 inch.
The cab corners in the wheel well were pushed back 1-1/2" with a hammer.
The back edge of the fender was cut back 1-1/2" and the fender bolt relocated.
The windshield washer tank was modified on the driver's side.
There is a support rib at the front of the wheel well that was folded over to make additional clearance. (tires just barely rubbed in this area)
The emergency brake cable was tie wrapped back to pull it clear of the tire.
Though I made my own front flares, Bushwacker's cut outs would have worked.
Lastly, self tapping screws with wide heads were used to pull the wheel liner back.
Did all this 3 months after getting the truck new in '04.
Only rubbing with the 35" tires was with the suspension fully compressed. It would rub the outer lip of the wheel well on top.
I installed Bushwacker cut out flares in the back, but they were not needed for clearance. Only to try and cover the tires.
The cab corners in the wheel well were pushed back 1-1/2" with a hammer.
The back edge of the fender was cut back 1-1/2" and the fender bolt relocated.
The windshield washer tank was modified on the driver's side.
There is a support rib at the front of the wheel well that was folded over to make additional clearance. (tires just barely rubbed in this area)
The emergency brake cable was tie wrapped back to pull it clear of the tire.
Though I made my own front flares, Bushwacker's cut outs would have worked.
Lastly, self tapping screws with wide heads were used to pull the wheel liner back.
Did all this 3 months after getting the truck new in '04.
Only rubbing with the 35" tires was with the suspension fully compressed. It would rub the outer lip of the wheel well on top.
I installed Bushwacker cut out flares in the back, but they were not needed for clearance. Only to try and cover the tires.
i should of posted exactly what i meant, i want to get these wheels,http://www.kmcwheels.com/html_pages/xdseries.html, (798 in matte black finished in a 20' size rim), what is is biggest tire size i can go before they start to rub.I like the way my truck sits but i just want a 20' s on it.
