Valve Lash Adjustment

SAVAGE77

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Nov 20, 2009
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Can someone clarify some things for me? I'm using the instructions provided by Merchant. When I align the mark on the balancer, #4 is always at tdc, as well as #1. If the #1 rockers don't move the last 90deg, then #1 is at TDC... but they never move for the last 90deg.. Are there two marks or am I missing something? I'm trying to get #4 at tdc so I can adjust the remaining valves. I hope that makes sense.
 

Chevy1925

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Oct 21, 2009
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if you can feel the rockers "clack" (grab the rockers and try to move them up and down) on both the intake and exhaust on cyl 1, your at TDC compression stroke for cyl 1. if you feel the exhaust valve on cyl 1 is very tight, your on the exhaust stroke of cyl 1 and TDC compression on cyl 4
 

SAVAGE77

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Nov 20, 2009
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Ok. That makes a little more sense then just to watch if they move or not. I guess my main issue is I still have the driver side head off and am adjusting the passenger side only.. I'll wait until the new head comes in from DHD and do them all at the same time I guess..
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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you can do it now, its just harder and you will be doing it again on the otherside when the head comes in so id agree on waiting
 

SAVAGE77

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Nov 20, 2009
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Thanks for the reply! Do you have any advice for the injector cup sealer? the kit from merchant comes with loctite 271 but every suggests 272??
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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I only use the 272. It wouldn't hurt to call merchant and make sure they sent the right stuff. I know of guys using other types of sealant without issue though. Merchant isn't one to send stuff that isn't gunna work but like I say, I'd call just to make sure.
 

SAVAGE77

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Nov 20, 2009
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Well I know that the 271 is basically OE type stuff. The 272 Is kinda to be a biotch to find local though. I've even heard of guys using the green "sleeve retainer" stuff. Just not sure what's best.. I sure don't want to have to do it again. It seems the actual culprit was a lifted cup, not the actual head gasket.. Oh well, doing em anyway.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Oct 21, 2009
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making sure you have a clean sealing surface and being sure its not pitted or eroded on both the head and cup is one of the biggest factors. i had to order my 272 through grainger at 50 bucks for the big bottle. a 12 gauge shot gun copper brush on the end of a cleaning rod then connected to a drill is a great way to clean the surface inside the head for the cup. i also use a long pick to knock the big chunks of sealant off before running the brush through.
 

SAVAGE77

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I cleaned it as well as possible with the head still off.. cant say it was a 12 ga brush, maybe more like large rifle. But I did hook it to the drill and give it a whaller. Of course I just found my fatal mistake.. I didn't put the exh man gasket on before i bolted the head down.. Now i have to either pull the studs that are still in the head or remove the oil indicator tube.
 

SAVAGE77

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No, the exh manifold is off still. I've already put the head back on.. however I did not place the exh manifold gasket on the head before torquing it. Now the oil dip stick tube is in the way. I can either pull the two exh manifold studs, or the tube to put the gasket on. Think I'm opting for the tube lol. Not fatal, just a pita!
 

SAVAGE77

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One would think.. esp since you have to pull the bracket bolt to get the manifolds off anyhow.. Just give it a yank right.. lol.. Nah as easy as i thought. That dude is in there.. It's cool I got a plan.