Turbo rebuilds, where to buy?
- Thread starter Dallas S
- Start date
How many miles are on the turbo & how much is it leaking?
I've read people say that if the filter is dirty it can create more vacuum & pull oil through the steel seal. I haven't seen it in person but know people that have had that problem.
I'd replace the air filter, clean all the tubing, make sure the compressor cover isn't hitting the housing obviously, & run it a little but keep an eye on it to see if the oil comes back.
That would be the cheapest thing to check first.
If you need rebuild kits,
Minor S400 rebuild kit - $105
Major S400 rebuild kit - $160
Up graded 360deg thrust washer - $190
The 360deg thrust wash isn't cheap. But not usually needed depending on how hard you push the turbo.
Yellowchevy
I've read people say that if the filter is dirty it can create more vacuum & pull oil through the steel seal. I haven't seen it in person but know people that have had that problem.
I'd replace the air filter, clean all the tubing, make sure the compressor cover isn't hitting the housing obviously, & run it a little but keep an eye on it to see if the oil comes back.
That would be the cheapest thing to check first.
If you need rebuild kits,
Minor S400 rebuild kit - $105
Major S400 rebuild kit - $160
Up graded 360deg thrust washer - $190
The 360deg thrust wash isn't cheap. But not usually needed depending on how hard you push the turbo.
Yellowchevy
New filter. It's been leaking/sucking oil for a while now. Always oil in my charge pipe to my primary. PVC is rerouted. Don't push the turbo, simple twin setup. However I believe a restrictive return line was the cause of this. Thrust bearings seem fine. Normal play in shaft. No where near contacting the housing yet.
Yellow, u sell the parts needed? Pm price shipped to 58265? Thanks
Yellow, u sell the parts needed? Pm price shipped to 58265? Thanks
I also have a s400 over a hih that is burning and leaking quite a bit of oil,wasnt sure if it was the feed line or dump causing it but never the less think il need a kit as well,turbo has less than 2000kms on the clock.What actually causes the oil leak,is there a seal in there that could be torn?After a long idle oil will giser out the hood stack when boosted.sorry for the hijack!
It will have slip rings on the shaft. Make sure the return isn't restricted. the center housing isn't under pressure, once oil goes to the bushings it drains back on its own.
X2
Your drain line can't be very flat.
For whatever reason I refer to the slip rings as steel seal, guess I'm use to power plant turbines!!! haha.
Theres a slip ring on the turbine side & compressor side. They are there to stop small amounts of oil from leaking. But when your drain line isn't flowing like it should oil will build up & your turbo will have a little pressure b/c your drain line isn't clear. Oil will then find the easier way out, slip rings.
I hope that makes sense.
Yellowchevy
Also if your oil pressure is too high at low to no boost it will also leak past. I know a truck with a modded oil pump that ran into this issue.
FWIW the factory drain is flat from the bottom of the drop from the turbo to the block, but it's also fairly large. So either a bad seal(s) or blockage could be your issue.
When I had my 464 rebuilt the turbo shop bought a whole center section with bearings seals and all for around $200 or less. Just swapped the wheels over.
FWIW the factory drain is flat from the bottom of the drop from the turbo to the block, but it's also fairly large. So either a bad seal(s) or blockage could be your issue.
When I had my 464 rebuilt the turbo shop bought a whole center section with bearings seals and all for around $200 or less. Just swapped the wheels over.
The seal ring is very similar to a piston ring. When/if you rebuild it, pay attention to the compressor wheels orientation on the shaft. Best to mark it before you loosen the nut. That way you can line it back up when you're reassembling it and have the best chance of getting back to it's original balance spec. As for the piston rings, the small frame S400's are usually a one piston ring design on the shaft and the big frame is a dual piston ring. If it's a dual design, make sure the gaps on the rings don't line up and install them so they are at the uphill side of the turbo, you'll have less chance of leakage that way. I usually put them at 10 and 2 o'clock positions in relation to the oil feed.
Also, be aware of cheap chinese knockoff rebuild kits. Like anything, you get what you pay for.
Also, be aware of cheap chinese knockoff rebuild kits. Like anything, you get what you pay for.
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