I neer to clean the veins on my stock turbo due to sticking, so my question is, can I remove the front housing from the turbo to clean the veins, replace o-rings and such, and reconnect? Does it need to be rebalanced afterwords? Or is simply reconnecting the band clamp good enough?
turbo question
- Thread starter John13296
- Start date
Pretty sure the turbo has to come all the way out, if that's what you're asking..? I believe the veins are accessed from the turbine housing side, not the "front cover" which is the compressor side...as far as needing to balancing anything, no, you don't, just reassemble with new seals where applicable tighten to spec and you're done.
Might be a good time to get better (fingers) viens and a new compressor wheel tho
All that work you might as well buy a turbo from mark. Be prepared to break a bolt or two. Soak them for a few days in pb blaster and let the truck get warm before u try to break them free. You can get the unison ring bead blasted and put anti seize on it. Your gonna need a good 12pt 12mm socket for up pipe bolts. Also watch which way the gaskets came out. You CAN put them in wrong. They are good to reuse if they look okay just get some copper gasket and spray on them. 2 10mm nuts for oil drain on rear top of block. 3 17mm bolts holding turbo to block and 2 17mm banjo bolts for the coolant lines.
U don't have to take the ex apart if you pull your Y-Bridge out. When I'm doin head gaskets on those I always just pull the clamp loose on the ex side and pull the compressor housing and cartridge out the front (Make sure the Turbo Drain and Feed lines are free). The vanes might fall out when you pull it apart. That don't matter you got to pull them off anyway. The Union ring will stay on the Cartridge if its sticking. I clean up the Union ring and the seat it rides on with a die-grinder and scuff pad. Clean it up till the union ring is free and can move easily back and forth with the actuator arm. I use a wheel hub resurfacing kit from OTC Part # 8342 on a cordless drill to clean up the ex housing around the pegs and the surface were the vanes ride. To install u put the Vanes all on their pegs (make sure they are turned right) and then put the Union Ring on the Vanes. This part can be a pain cz u got t have the Union ring positioned so the actuator arm can engage it when you go to install the Compressor housing and Cartridge. Once you go the union ring installed properly on the vanes, put Anti-Seize on the seat were the Union ring rides and install the Cartridge and Compressor housing. There is a little pin on the Cartridge that positions the Cartridge in the Exhaust Housing Make sure you don't break that off at any time! There is no O-Rings or such to deal with. The Exhaust sealing surface is steal to steal with the V-Band Clamp on the Outside. Again, when installing the Cartridge Make sure the little pin lines up with the Ex housing and that the Actuator arm engages the Union ring properly. Hope it works out for you!
Don't waste your time leaving it in the truck. Just pull it out and do it right. The vanes and everything that need to be cleaned will be in the exhaust housing still attached to the truck. If you spray it down with a cleaner, it will all run back down in the up pipes and be send right back through the turbo when you start it.
I agree with removing the turbo. If its your first time messing with a turbo it will be alot easier. Also, don't put anything on the unison ring; exhaust gas/soot goes through the vane/past the unison ring which will then stick to the unison ring b/c its not smooth. You will then be back in it with stick vane issues.
When you remove the turbo place it on the bench with the exhaust discharge facing down. Take off the V-band clamp that hold the cartridge to the exhaust housing. Take a rubber mallet and hit the vane actuator that sticks out to the side. Hit it towards you away from the exhaust housing then again away from you towards the exhaust housing. This rocking back and forth will help it break free. Make sure to spin the compressor wheel to make sure the rotating assembly isn't binding up on exhaust housing.
You won't have to balance the rotating assembly b/c you won't be taking it apart going this route. I know a picture is worth a thousand words so heres a some links in case you need them.
LLY Turbo; Page 2 has a good shot of the vanes. 4094 Turbo; Page 4 has a good shot of the vanes.
Good luck and its not to bad once you get into its.
Yellowchevy
When you remove the turbo place it on the bench with the exhaust discharge facing down. Take off the V-band clamp that hold the cartridge to the exhaust housing. Take a rubber mallet and hit the vane actuator that sticks out to the side. Hit it towards you away from the exhaust housing then again away from you towards the exhaust housing. This rocking back and forth will help it break free. Make sure to spin the compressor wheel to make sure the rotating assembly isn't binding up on exhaust housing.
You won't have to balance the rotating assembly b/c you won't be taking it apart going this route. I know a picture is worth a thousand words so heres a some links in case you need them.
LLY Turbo; Page 2 has a good shot of the vanes. 4094 Turbo; Page 4 has a good shot of the vanes.
Good luck and its not to bad once you get into its.
Yellowchevy
Hey guys, he asked if its possible. Its possible, I've done it several times. Of course every time I do it I have the heads off already and it is totally simple to pop the clamp and pull it apart. Believe me I have lots of experience with stripped and snapped off bolts. U can waste many hours drilling and taping out the bolt holes.
The Y bridge is gonna be a bit of a pain to get out...especially with all the fuel lines goin over top of it...u got to take a some of them loose but I've done it. Not sure about getting cleaner down the up pipes it will all evaporate probably b4 he ever starts it up Lol. If ur worried about rust making a problem Jam paper towels or shop rags around the crack in the ex housing, a little rust won't hurt Iconel Steel.
I am new to this Forum and haven't figured out how to upload Pic to a thread yet. I've got a few pics here that might help out a little bit. It never occurred to me to take pics of the step by step process. I'll do it next time!
The Y bridge is gonna be a bit of a pain to get out...especially with all the fuel lines goin over top of it...u got to take a some of them loose but I've done it. Not sure about getting cleaner down the up pipes it will all evaporate probably b4 he ever starts it up Lol. If ur worried about rust making a problem Jam paper towels or shop rags around the crack in the ex housing, a little rust won't hurt Iconel Steel.
I am new to this Forum and haven't figured out how to upload Pic to a thread yet. I've got a few pics here that might help out a little bit. It never occurred to me to take pics of the step by step process. I'll do it next time!
I uploaded a few Pic to my Garage. They may not be of much help though. The one that has the Heads on and the Y bridge & Compressor housing off is an LB7. Good luck! With some common sense and patience its do able. Which ever way you choose to do it that's fine. lol Have Fun!!