turbo oil drain/return

[sweetdiesel]

I have a small problom with the install of the new turbo

The turbo im installing has a T4 pedistall with a 2 1/2" spacer that sits between the turbo and pedistall

here is the issue: I made a spacer to sit on top of the lb7 factory drain but it doesnt line up to the turbo at all! Also my factoy tube hits the pedistall

here our the options Ive come up with

A) I have to flanges made up one for the bottom of the turbo and one for the block and then run a braided hose to tie it in

now if i use option A i come up with a new issue,The biggest i can go is 1/2" compared to the stock 7/8" is this bad? Also the 90* that comes out
of the flange on the block hits the DS up pipe howerver i can fix this

B) use both factory flanges and cut the pipe off and push on some hose and then clamp it with a couple clamps

Now if i use (B) i cant get as good of quality hose ( heat ) and ofcouse its hose clamped,but it does use factory 7/8" connection


Here is the main question:

wil it hurt to use 1/2" hose restriction wise? It comes into the turbo 3/8"



Thanks and sorry bout the ramble

 

[MaxPowerLB7]

If you used 1/2 inch tubing you'd more than likely build pressure on the return side and have oil coming out of the seals which probably wouldn't "hurt" anything but is obviously not a good thing.
I can't tell you from experience but 1/2 tube has an area of .785 sq inches as compared to 7/8 which is 2.432sq inches-about triple the area

 

[sweetdiesel]

If you used 1/2 inch tubing you'd more than likely build pressure on the return side and have oil coming out of the seals which probably wouldn't "hurt" anything but is obviously not a good thing.
I can't tell you from experience but 1/2 tube has an area of .785 sq inches as compared to 7/8 which is 2.432sq inches-about triple the area

I dont really like the idea of reducing the drain size either.but i laos dont like to use a hose calmp
the tubing on the factory line is so thin and I myself would be hard pressed to crimp a connection onto it and or sodder

 

[never satisfied]

I am running 1/2'' braided.
No troubles yet.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I am running 1/2'' braided.
No troubles yet.

Really? Well thats good to know Are you going to the stock location or did you go somewhere else?

I was also thinking of running into the oil pan and simply blocking off the stock turbo drain on the block.....I allready have a spare 1/2 tap in the pan

 

[never satisfied]

I am running the stock location. It is a bit of a tight fit but I didn't have any problems with it.

 

[sweetdiesel]

I am running the stock location. It is a bit of a tight fit but I didn't have any problems with it.

Perfect thanks

 

[JOHNBOY]

You should be fine with 1/2" braided line. I seen guys run 3/8" with no issues.

 

[never satisfied]

I think I used one 45* fitting and one 90* to make it fit.

 

[Josh2002cc]

Oil return line

I took the factory flanges off the return tube and cut them off. Then I went ahead and got two fittings, both male adapters, -10mj(male fjx). Have a welding shop tig the fittings onto the flanges then have 2 -10(5/8") female fjx fittings crimped on your 5/8" braided hose after you cut it to length. Before you go and have the fittings welded, cut the opposite end of the jic threads off so all that is left is the nut and male jic threads. This should give you enough flow and also make it alot easier to change turbos later if needed as all you need to loosen would be one fitting with one wrench.

Here are a few pictures to help you understand what I did. I do not have pictures of the finished product as it is out in the shop but you get the idea.

 

[mytmousemalibu]

Should be Ok, remember though, If oil does get past the front seal, "runaway" is a concern, just wanted to add that, but since others have had no trouble, doubt you will simon

 

[ripmf666]

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/m...oduct_Code=ATP-FLA-009&Category_Code=ATP-FTG1

 

[sweetdiesel]

Should be Ok, remember though, If oil does get past the front seal, "runaway" is a concern, just wanted to add that, but since others have had no trouble, doubt you will simon

I think I used one 45* fitting and one 90* to make it fit.

Decided to use swageloc under the turbo and a braided 1/2" hose up the spacer to the turbo

It's a few more connections but i trust em

I built my own flange for the block and got one of those flanges for the turbo From ATP

 

[LBZ]

Decided to use swageloc under the turbo and a braided 1/2" hose up the spacer to the turbo

It's a few more connections but i trust em

I built my own flange for the block and got one of those flanges for the turbo From ATP

Pics??

 

[WolfLMM]

Simon you want me to make you a spacer block?

 

[WolfLMM]

You could put the spacer on the bottem of the charger, that way you wouldnt hit the pedistal??

 

[sweetdiesel]

Simon you want me to make you a spacer block?

perhaps a month ago I did :hug:

I have the spacer and the turbo is hooked up allready

 

[redws6rocket]

mine is 1/2 braided that larry larson built for me, works great!

 

[sweetdiesel]

I took the factory flanges off the return tube and cut them off. Then I went ahead and got two fittings, both male adapters, -10mj(male fjx). Have a welding shop tig the fittings onto the flanges then have 2 -10(5/8") female fjx fittings crimped on your 5/8" braided hose after you cut it to length. Before you go and have the fittings welded, cut the opposite end of the jic threads off so all that is left is the nut and male jic threads. This should give you enough flow and also make it alot easier to change turbos later if needed as all you need to loosen would be one fitting with one wrench.

Here are a few pictures to help you understand what I did. I do not have pictures of the finished product as it is out in the shop but you get the idea.

How do I get the stock tubing out of the flange? Its soldered in there and I tried heating with a torch.....It didnt even touch it!

I made a new flange,but the stock is probably better since it has very little restriction

My plan was to tig or solder( not me ) a new thicker SS tubing in there

My other setup didnt work very well,Its just so tight

 

[JoshH]

If you used 1/2 inch tubing you'd more than likely build pressure on the return side and have oil coming out of the seals which probably wouldn't "hurt" anything but is obviously not a good thing.
I can't tell you from experience but 1/2 tube has an area of .785 sq inches as compared to 7/8 which is 2.432sq inches-about triple the area

I think your math is a little off. I come up with .196 sq in for the cross sectional area of a 1/2" line and .601 sq in for the 7/8" line.

How do I get the stock tubing out of the flange? Its soldered in there and I tried heating with a torch.....It didnt even touch it!

I made a new flange,but the stock is probably better since it has very little restriction

My plan was to tig or solder( not me ) a new thicker SS tubing in there

My other setup didnt work very well,Its just so tight

Based on the pictures and what he wrote, I'm gonna guess he cut the flanges off the pipe.