(turbo flange) The Start of my future TWINS

[wsmithduramax]

Okay so I'm planning on putting twins on my pickup that I will build my self, just for cost reasons, and it will give me something to do. I'm gonna retain the stock turbo, and use like an s475 or something similar. Everything I've read people always say the the "heat Pipe" is the hardest to fab up, wich I agree, it looks like a pain in the a$$ to modify the stock down pipe, and so I was bored and started turning the wheels in my head. I machined a flange just out of aluminum for now and test fitting but at least I've got some what of an idea of were im headed. Im still debating on making them out of stainless or just steel. The hole is 3" and has a lip for the pipe to slide into and gives you a nice fit then all I gotta do is run a bead around it once I get it in there and start laying out the pipe. If it looks like it will work with some adjustments I might even be willing to sell to those of us who wanna build our own twins. Anyways let me know what you guys think, even if it doesn't look like it will work im always open to ideas. Got more time then money so my as well do something with it. And by the way I'm not trying to step on any of the big companies like MPI by making this flange, I know their products are top of the line, and if I could afford it I would have their big twin kit on mine right now. This is more or less seeing what you guys think, and if it would work. Thanks for reading.

 

[02bigstrokin]

thats not going to work right. the whole flange needs to be open. look at the back of the turbo, right where you have the flat plate at is where the wastegate is. you need that wastegate to work as much as possible with a ihi turbo in a twin setup. trust me i had twins using the stocker, and you'll more drive pressure then you want without blocking off the w/g

 

[wsmithduramax]

how much air space am i needing in order for the waste gate to function properally?

 

[SDP]

I agree, you'll want more than that 3" hole, you'll want an oval shape at a minimum that opens up near the wastegate as well. If you're interested I could get you one, or I should be able to get a pic of the design next week.

 

[Smokin LB7]

Wes, taper that and it will work alright. But like dmax15 said, you need an oval pipe that that tapers out and then reduces down into your 3". Look at the stock downpipe, it has a huge "bulge" coming out of it that allows for the wastegate and the turbine outlet to flow.

If I were you, I would cut the middle out of that whole thing, and then fabricate it to transition down to the 3" hotpipe

 

[02bigstrokin]

If I were you, I would cut the middle out of that whole thing, and then fabricate it to transition down to the 3" hotpipe[/QUOTE]


x2

 

[wsmithduramax]

I see what you are all saying, and yea Dmax15 if you had something you could email me as far as what your thinking that would be great. thanks for the replys to all you, and I'll get something made up soon, its all about trying something new..

 

[dmaxvaz]

I see what you are all saying, and yea Dmax15 if you had something you could email me as far as what your thinking that would be great. thanks for the replys to all you, and I'll get something made up soon, its all about trying something new..

i have a flange i had lazer cut with with 2 holes in it just for this. Look up threads on here by "thebac" (the stock turbo ideas). the hole for the wastegate needs to be ported on the inside edge to have full swing for the wastegate arm.

 

[JMK777]

I built one like that and for the waste gate my flange has a 2" hole in it over the waste gate and a pipe that runs out of it down to the bottom of the truck whale the 3" pipe go's up to the second turbo.

 

[TheBac]

Why not take your stock downpipe, cut the pipe part off (about 1" from the flange) and fabricate your turn using a 3.5" 90* (or more) piece of pipe. At least, thats what Id do.

 

[wsmithduramax]

flange

Why not take your stock downpipe, cut the pipe part off (about 1" from the flange) and fabricate your turn using a 3.5" 90* (or more) piece of pipe. At least, thats what Id do.

I would do that, but im all about making it simple and clean looking, i have the machine equipment and my as well put it to use... thats the main reason. I know i can modify my existing down pipe, just trying to keep it clean and neat.

Thanks to everyone for the help and ideas, I think I have a better idea of what I need to do. Thanks

 

[TheBac]

It would still be neat with one weld joint, same as you're planning with the new flange. Thats how I started my downpipe. Worked well.

 

[SDP]

Why not take your stock downpipe, cut the pipe part off (about 1" from the flange) and fabricate your turn using a 3.5" 90* (or more) piece of pipe. At least, thats what Id do.

It sounds easy but its actually a bit of work and hard to make a smoother transition. Starting with the flanges and narrowing it down gradually to 3" will be much smoother and IMO easier to build.

 

[Burn Down]

Wsmith,
I have this housing from Subman/mika's old lb7 twins. PM me if your interested in it.

 

[WolfLMM]

Okay so I'm planning on putting twins on my pickup that I will build my self, just for cost reasons, and it will give me something to do. I'm gonna retain the stock turbo, and use like an s475 or something similar. Everything I've read people always say the the "heat Pipe" is the hardest to fab up, wich I agree, it looks like a pain in the a$$ to modify the stock down pipe, and so I was bored and started turning the wheels in my head. I machined a flange just out of aluminum for now and test fitting but at least I've got some what of an idea of were im headed. Im still debating on making them out of stainless or just steel. The hole is 3" and has a lip for the pipe to slide into and gives you a nice fit then all I gotta do is run a bead around it once I get it in there and start laying out the pipe. If it looks like it will work with some adjustments I might even be willing to sell to those of us who wanna build our own twins. Anyways let me know what you guys think, even if it doesn't look like it will work im always open to ideas. Got more time then money so my as well do something with it. And by the way I'm not trying to step on any of the big companies like MPI by making this flange, I know their products are top of the line, and if I could afford it I would have their big twin kit on mine right now. This is more or less seeing what you guys think, and if it would work. Thanks for reading.

OT, what kind of mill you using? JW

Thanks,

Wolf

 

[wsmithduramax]

OT, what kind of mill you using? JW

Thanks,

Wolf

We've got a small family ran machine/molding business, and we have 3 Plastic molding machines, and a Haas mill and a fanuc mill, these were made on the haas.

 

[Turbo Buick 6]

You could try something like this....

 

[wsmithduramax]

yea I think I've got a better idea of what I gotta do. Looks awsome TURBO BUICK.

 

[WolfLMM]

Is it 3,4, or 5 axis??? You could start out with a thicker piece of workstock, do some 3D contouring, and end up with a piece like TB6 posted only yours will be solid billet:thumb: That way you can still keep the 3" outlet

 

[TheBac]

It sounds easy but its actually a bit of work and hard to make a smoother transition. Starting with the flanges and narrowing it down gradually to 3" will be much smoother and IMO easier to build.

Gotcha. I stand corrected.