My FPR is going bad in my 2001. If I invest in a modded unit and keep my stock cp3 can I still run the ATS e-power? Obviously EFI live is a great tool which I desire, but can I get the truck to run correctly on a canned tune?
Tuning modded FPR
- Thread starter racinmike77
- Start date
some work fine as is, mine for one had to be tuned in to run right, when it was first hooked up mine idled with +/- 23000 psi rail pressure
It just like Larry said some trucks are ok some are not
I have 2 modded regs and niether needed any adjustment
I have 2 modded regs and niether needed any adjustment
I have a (home brew) modded regulator in one of my CP3's and a stocker in the original. It took a decent amount of logging and tuning to get the table dialed in to where the truck didn't want to surge.
You'll be the first to know if yours plays nice with the program,
Nick
You'll be the first to know if yours plays nice with the program,
Nick
It's the dirty little secret about modded regulators. They're awesome, but they must be accounted for in the valve current table or driveability will suffer.
Nick
Nick
i have a stock regulator, and i also have a surge light throttle on the highway when the tc locks, and very noticable in t/h once the tc locks in second. it does it on the initial lock of the tc. and every light throttle after. i'll have to log the fuel pressure for it.
Nick
you where suppose to use a dremal to cut the slits in the barrell,NOT a side grinder
oke:
Dont sound like a reg problom,but the best thing to log is milliams of des VS act rail current
Nick
you where suppose to use a dremal to cut the slits in the barrell,NOT a side grinder
I'm a tuna! I only have a limited selection of precision grinding equipment
:nanawrench:
GMC_2002_Dmax
The Still Master
If you log the milliamps you want to also log the deseired/actual fuel pressure and you want it to stay within 200-300 psi with the miliamps not bouncing around a ton, some variability is OK.
If you see the amps going to zero at all you have to increase the amps to throttle the valve closed more as it is overshooting and closing to stop the fuel.
The more effecient the modded valve is the more amps you need to apply to keep the actual fuel pressure from overshooting the desired fuel pressure.
If you suspect there is a problem with the amps at idle such as a lope from the regulator you can disconnect your lift pump power supply to troubleshoot.
If your lift pumps push thru the regulator at idle increase amps at the top of the table until the loping stops........
I use a Road Runner ECM so adjusting the regulator takes me about 3 minutes tops on most truck.
Good Luck,
If you see the amps going to zero at all you have to increase the amps to throttle the valve closed more as it is overshooting and closing to stop the fuel.
The more effecient the modded valve is the more amps you need to apply to keep the actual fuel pressure from overshooting the desired fuel pressure.
If you suspect there is a problem with the amps at idle such as a lope from the regulator you can disconnect your lift pump power supply to troubleshoot.
If your lift pumps push thru the regulator at idle increase amps at the top of the table until the loping stops........
I use a Road Runner ECM so adjusting the regulator takes me about 3 minutes tops on most truck.
Good Luck,
If you suspect there is a problem with the amps at idle such as a lope from the regulator you can disconnect your lift pump power supply to troubleshoot.
Excellent point!
I use a Road Runner ECM so adjusting the regulator takes me about 3 minutes tops on most truck.
Good Luck,
Road Runners Gotta love em