torsion bars
- Thread starter TQMONSTR
- Start date
I have always pullled my bolts all the way out i want the front end as low as possible , on my race truck the Cv's are way negative, a good idea to do no matter where you set them is take a file or hack saw and notch the bolt ( just enough to make a perminate mark ) before you pull them out , then when your at the track you can just fully remove the bolts and when you put them back in they will be set right every time with out having to count turns abd bs like that .
And also ,if you didn't know,I don't see it mentioned,take the weight off the front end when at least resetting the height. I've heard some individuals getting hurt not doing that with stripping out the adjustment bolt.
Worth noting
Worth noting
I asked a well known duramax suspension expert if i could remove the bolts and he told me that i could damage the front end doing it. I can't see how that would be possible so thats why i asked. Also, when i lift the front of the truck i just measured from the ground to the fender and made it the same as it was before i lowered it. Is counting the number of turns on the bolt or marking it better or am i good to do it the way i have been doing it?
Everyone has a opinion on torsion bar adjustments. Some go as far as saying you should have the front end aligned each time also. I wouldn't believe taking out the bolt would ruin anything unless you drove all the time on the road with the suspension unloaded. Then I could see some wear on front end components.
In my opinion measuring with a tape measure ,fender and ground , isn't that accurate. To many variables. Counting turns or marking the bolt is in my opinion the most accurate way to do it.
In my opinion measuring with a tape measure ,fender and ground , isn't that accurate. To many variables. Counting turns or marking the bolt is in my opinion the most accurate way to do it.
measure the the length of the bolt from the inside of the head to where it screws into for normal driving. make a spacer or stack of washers to get it back to where it was when you reinstall the bolts. anti seizing the bolts is a good thing too.
marking the bolt is the only sure way to go.
take em out completely for racing....you can leave em in, no difference once the keys are all the way down
take em out completely for racing....you can leave em in, no difference once the keys are all the way down
I actually pulled the half moon looking things that the bolts go through out and ground them down some.. this dropped the front a little more.... anyone else done this? so far I haven't had any issues and they have been this way for a while....
First, I jack the truck up so weight in off the front wheels.
I lower the drivers side down onto the stop. The pass side I leave cranked about 1/8" above the stop to give that side some preload (thanks Rob for that tip). I leave both bolts in.
For adjustment, I measured the distance like Noreaster described and stacked washers on both bolts, so I can just zip them back up to snug when Im done racing. Im all for simplicity.
I also will take the bolts completely out at the beginning and end of the year and anti-sieze the living crap out of them.
I lower the drivers side down onto the stop. The pass side I leave cranked about 1/8" above the stop to give that side some preload (thanks Rob for that tip). I leave both bolts in.
For adjustment, I measured the distance like Noreaster described and stacked washers on both bolts, so I can just zip them back up to snug when Im done racing. Im all for simplicity.
I also will take the bolts completely out at the beginning and end of the year and anti-sieze the living crap out of them.