Time to Work on Suspension

[Ne-max]

Took the truck to the track yesturday. Traction was a big issue that I need to take care of other then a broke driveshaft. Could only run on tune 3. I see potential though. Im thinking either a 4 link or going with caltracs and race shocks. Just the traction bars did not cut it. What is the best route?

 

[JoshH]

Is your truck 2 wheel drive?

 

[jkholder09]

Is the truck going to be a dedicated drag race truck?

 

[Ne-max]

Yes the truck is 2wd. I was running the m&h 31.5x12 slicks.

Truck will for the track and want to drive it in the street here and there. Not a daily driver.

 

[jkholder09]

I would say a 4 link and some good shocks that transfer the weight .
allot of compression dampening up front and allot of rebound dampning rear.
You are gonna have to really hook up.
What tire pressure were you running?

 

[Ne-max]

15psi

 

[matt78]

Best 60 ive had in 2wd was1.72. Its a challenge to launch consistant and cut good lights. Im saving up for a 4wd conversion just because the tire swap is a beatdown in the summer. Probably sell my slicks soon, good luck and keep practicing. You will get there:thumb:

 

[jkholder09]

Also remember a four link puts you into a different class sometimes iirc
You should check rulebook.

15 psi seemd reasonable did you try anything else

 

[hondarider552]

Just takes practice. Id start with ranchos in the rear and play with the caltrac preload.

 

[matt78]

For what its worth I have caltracs and no suspension mods, not saying thats good but anything should help

 

[Ne-max]

I was told to lose my bottom leaf spring and my drop shackle. Simon also told me to remount my shocks. So I might just try caltracs and good shocks. I am new to this so my mind has been going crazy all weekend. First time out with this motor.

 

[408.Luke]

you can get the drop leaf spring hangers (front) to get your pinion angle back into check instead of getting rid of your drop shackles if you want to keep the lowered stance. It will put it a bit lower though. 4-link would be the best and it would ride better around town too. What width wheel are you running? I know its a 12" wide slick but if its on a narrow wheel it doesn't do a whole lot of good.

 

[Ne-max]

Wheels are 10 inches wide. I have shims in to keep pinion angles in check.

 

[matt78]

What rpm are you launching at. 2000-2100 seems to work well for me. Just a little under and the tires dont hit. Slicks like to hit hard or they fall on there face. I know that I launched at 1800 and my sixty went from 1.78 to 1.95. Same day same track. Suspension mods are great but tire pressure, and how hard you launch will effect you more. I have run m and h radials and slicks, usually cut 1.7-1.8 most of the time. Make sure you light them on a good burnout but not to much or they get greasey. Im no expert but ive ran my truck over 3 years in 2wd.

 

[Ne-max]

Was launching at 3 psi of boost.

 

[Ne-max]

I think I'm going to loose the shackles. Get a set of caltracs and remount my shocks. If that don't work I will thow them on my lmm and do a 4 link.

 

[hondarider552]

FWIW, my old boss and myself cut consistent 1.90's on a rc/sb 2wd procharged 5.3 making 550hp. Ran IIRC 315/xx/15 MT's. No spring clamps or traction bars.

 

[Fahlin Racing]

If you want a stiffer shock on your rig, see what Gabriel heavy truck shock will work even if you need bushings to use a smaller bolt. You can get stiff shocks in either jounce or rebound from a heavy truck or heavy trailer shock absorber.

Is your weight transfer a large movement right now?

 

[Ne-max]

Not really any weight transfer at all. I am new to this whole drag racing thing. That was my first time to drag stip with a truck. Ran bikes a lot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HRZvcqQ1K4&feature=youtu.be

 

[Fahlin Racing]

Not too much movement, but you can definitely stiffen it. The front end has a small amount of lift in it when you launch that brings you up to level and the rear sinks some. I am new to drags myself however tuning your chassis/suspension isn't difficult IMO you just have to understand how it works.

Look at an old Gasser drag car and see how its front end is. Also take into mind that you want anti squat too. The more your chassis moves (both front and rear) the more time you are not using to propel down the track. I may be wrong on an aspect or two but I am always up for correction by anyone. You want weight transfer to be quick to plant all 4 corners where they need to be to produce a reactive setup.