LLY: This looks fun
- Thread starter clrussell
- Start date
Nice it didn't break flush, ^^^ this, it works very well won't take much of a tack. Then skip the wrench and hit her with an impact it should go.
That's pretty common. Was the gasket leaking at that stud? I've seen them so bad that it wiped out the block.
I broke like 3 on the crew cab I believe. Never needed a heli coil I had one that was just above flush to and welding nuts to them and hitting them with some Kroil for like 3 days and heated them up and they came right out.
Ok i read my old thread, I broke 2 and got one with vise grips and another with the welded nut approache, I'm a firm believer in welding a large washer to the stud then welding a larger nut to that. I need to make a video one day on this. You can get a nice hot bead inside a bigger nut. And you can use a nut as big as the washer you welded on at first. Hard to explain but hasn't ever failed me.
Looking back I may not have needed one, the threads were gone from rust and the guy that helped me had 25+ years of BBC racing and building experience but zero duramax time and he said it'd be safer to do it and I did and I had no problems, I heated the old stud and ripped on it.
I know a guy with like 5 or 6 heli coils in his duramax block and he has had no issues that I have heard. He hand tightened the studs without cleaning the threads and didn't get them all the way down and torqued them down and took out alot ot threads lol.
I've never tried this but I've got a good buddy that swears by the candle wax trick now after and old man showed him one day, after struggling with some old farm equipment. He said his 1/2 air gun wouldn't touch it with it glowing red. Did the candle wax trick and it was like it was hand tight. Maybe this would be good time to try it?
Same here, serious heat transfers into bolt and not block this way
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if you weld it, put some big wet towels or a welding blanket everywhere around the block so no slag will get into the cyls/pistons.
You want the heat to transfer out of the bolt. If not the bolt just expands causing it to become tighter.
it is that expansion that breaks the rust. when it cools enough it becomes free from the block. if you hit it with penetrating oil or wax while still hot it will thin out the oil supper thin and allow it to wick in. also the faster cooling helps break the rust.
I have used water, Solvent, motor oil, soap, wax, but the one i like best is thin penetrating oil. they all seem to work but the penetrating oil seems to do the best job.
I am not totally convinced that a washer pre-welded on is needed. many of the ones i have welded where on strong enough to be like the head of a bolt. the hardest ones are the ones that break flush or below the surface and i dont see how a washer is going to make a difference here.
Just put a nut on it, leave it slightly high, start welding from the center getting the stud hot and the weld penetrating the steel then slowly work it out to the nut going in a circle . done this dozens of times. I weld them when ever i can before i attempt vice grips or drilling it out.
my two cents
I have used water, Solvent, motor oil, soap, wax, but the one i like best is thin penetrating oil. they all seem to work but the penetrating oil seems to do the best job.
I am not totally convinced that a washer pre-welded on is needed. many of the ones i have welded where on strong enough to be like the head of a bolt. the hardest ones are the ones that break flush or below the surface and i dont see how a washer is going to make a difference here.
Just put a nut on it, leave it slightly high, start welding from the center getting the stud hot and the weld penetrating the steel then slowly work it out to the nut going in a circle . done this dozens of times. I weld them when ever i can before i attempt vice grips or drilling it out.
my two cents