LLY: Surging idle, loud

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Well my truck is down. We have had a cross country trip planned for months. A few days before time to leave my truck randomly shut off one day after I cranked it up. Would not restart. I pumped the filter bulb up and it cranked back up. After a few miles it began skipping and stumbling. Almost shut of driving at about 30mph. I got on the throttle and it slowly cleared out. When I got to work I pumped the bulb again and noticed bubbles coming out around the fuel heater fitting in top. Replaced the filter head with a brand new gm one. Along with the rubber fuel lines because they looked brittle and dry rotted. It ran like a champ after. From idle to wot it was smooth. Better than ever. I drove and idled it for hours the 3 days before time to leave for the trip. Never missed a beat. I thought all was well so I decided to drive it on the trip. We got about 4 hours out and stopped for fuel. I left the truck idling while filing up. It loped hard a couple times then cleared up and was fine. By loping I mean it sounded like cycling the key off and on at idle. We continued on for a couple more hours and stopped again for food. This time I shut it off for roughly an hour. When I cranked it back up it loped way worse. To the point of jumping up to 1500 rpm then going so low it shut off. As long as I was on the throttle a little it'd run decent at anything over 1200 rpm. But it was louder than it had been. I decided to turn around and get my dad's lbz since he wasn't going to use it any for a few weeks anyway.

My truck ran fine on the way back. But it had more of a rattle than it used to. Nothing crazy, just a little louder. Like an lb7 vs an lly. Sometimes it idles normal other than being louder. Other times it lopes and shuts down.

Bottom line, I am 1500 miles from the truck. I'll have a v2 I bought from a member on here. When I get home I'll run logs and all that good stuff. Just wanted to get some ideas of what to look for.

Truck is a 2005 lly 143k miles 4" down pipe back exhaust. Diablo preditor set on 100hp. I have put almost 5k miles on this truck since getting it and it has never missed a beat till now. It has always idled smooth and quiet.

Sorry for the long post, I wanted to be as descriptive as possible.
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
I have also checked the harness rub by the alternator. It is in tact and not worn through anywhere. I have wiggled and jiggled it with the truck running and it did not change. There are no burn marks either.
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
I am leaning toward the regulator too because I remember playing with the rail pressure on my old lb7 with the scan tool part of the v2. This one sounds like the rail is to high but with a lope mixed in as well.

I was going to do them to just to be safe but I wiggled and jiggled every connection I could with no change in sound or idle. But I don't think that's what it is, I have a friend with an 05 we had to do that to. It sounded and acted a lot different than what mine is doing.

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mplecha

Member
May 13, 2012
31
0
6
South Carolina
I just replaced the fpr in my LLY. Not a bad job, but the torx bolts holding it in are a pain without the right tool. A regular socket will not work.
 

BobbyBDirtyMax

US Marine Corps Retired
Feb 15, 2013
143
0
16
Madisonville, KY
I'm leaning towards the FPR as well, my LLY did something similar and I replaced it with a new LBZ regulator, my buddies LB7 did almost down to the T what yours is doing and it was his FPR. Not a bad job, once you get down to it and remove the turbo intake the best way I've done it and do every one I change is to use a T-25 torx bit and a ratcheting 1/4 gear wrench, works wonders in tight spots, not knocking anyone but All Season Diesel has their FPRs on sale right now if that helps, hope you get it back going soon, FPRs can be ridiculous at times.
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Yeah I replaced the fpr in my buddies lly a year or so ago. So I have the torx bit I used on his. Hopefully they are still on sale by the time I get home and can mess with it. Glad to hear others have had similar issues. Would a bad fpr cause an intermittent surge at wot as well? Sometimes it doesn't do it at all, others it feels like a fuel filter beginning to plug up. But I know it isn't the filter.

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BobbyBDirtyMax

US Marine Corps Retired
Feb 15, 2013
143
0
16
Madisonville, KY
It is possible at WOT, most the time it's at idle or near idle that it will act up so badly. I've seen cases where it will hardly run without having some throttle input to not starting at all even while priming it, FPRs can bit a bit of work to change but being you've done it before should be a nice job for you, if that don't fix your issues, I'd check the factory Fuel Pressure Relief Valve, over time they wear out and if popped once they will just get worse and worse, PPE makes their race valve replacement, works great, easy to install and keeps the low pressure fuel codes away
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
I have thought of that fprv as well. But the only time I've seen a low fuel pressure code was after changing the filter head. There was an air pocket somewhere. Once I got it cleared out never saw a rail pressure code again. This leads me away from the fprv being all of my issue. Granted it may be weak and I do plan to either shim it or get the race valve

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02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Well I have been paying around with the scan tool part and dvts all morning. What I've found is the #4 injector has a balance rate of +4 in Park. Hopefully ice picking it will lower that down and I don't have a bad injector. Is # 4 the second one back on the drivers or passenger side? I also have rail pressure issues too. When I command full real with the dvt the most I can get is about 9500 psi of actual rp. When I drive the truck from a stop to about 60mph at wot the desired rail is around 23k psi but the actual rp is only around 20-21k. This is on the Diablo 100 horse tune. I did a log I'll post shortly when my computer is recharged. The truck has been idling and cranking fine. Occasionally it will miss real fast just above idle. Like the key being turned off and on fast. And occasionally it throws a 1093 code I belive. It's the low rail pressure code. I'm going to shim the fprv for sure. And ice pick the injectors. But my real concern is the miss. It is not a misfire like a missing injector or two. It is a total loss of power for a second or so. Like key being turned off and on. And of course it would not do it while I was logging

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02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Ignore.
Unable to post the logs or videos of logs. And the truck doesn't run right at all anymore. Going to start with the regulator

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02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
Well I changed the fpr. It is better but still not right, it will at least idle now and is driveable. But it does occasionally hiccup at idle and driving. I also picked the injector harnesses, all that changed was the balance rates slightly. may have even just been a fluke. The actual and desired rail pressure do track together better now. All the way up to 23k. I am at my witts end with it, the only other thing I am trying is installing the lift pump I've had laying around as soon as I get the hoses here. Maybe I'm pulling little air bubbles from somewhere, if thats even feasible? But I do not see or smell any fuel.
 

02greysixer

Active member
Jun 4, 2011
1,829
7
38
North Central FL
I believe I got it fixed! It finally through a code related to the crank sensor. And the tach started acting weird, jumping, reading noticeably slower than the actual engine rpm. At first I thought this was just a bad stepper motor in addition to whatever else was wrong with it. But I gambled on the crank sensor anyway. It seems to have worked. The truck cranks better, the tach works right and smooth, it holds a steady smooth rpm at any pedal input in neutral. And the tranny shifts better than it has since I've had the truck. Hopefully all is well, only driving it will tell for sure.

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Balindir

Rod shortning in progress
Jul 30, 2012
364
0
16
South Central, Pa
I believe I got it fixed! It finally through a code related to the crank sensor. And the tach started acting weird, jumping, reading noticeably slower than the actual engine rpm. At first I thought this was just a bad stepper motor in addition to whatever else was wrong with it. But I gambled on the crank sensor anyway. It seems to have worked. The truck cranks better, the tach works right and smooth, it holds a steady smooth rpm at any pedal input in neutral. And the tranny shifts better than it has since I've had the truck. Hopefully all is well, only driving it will tell for sure.

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I know this is a year old, but i'm getting very similar symptoms to which you described and I just wanted to follow up and see if the crank sensor did fix your issue.