Stock turbo twin setup...?

$Smokin_Duradog$

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Truck is a 2005 LLY CCSB 40" tires and SAS. I would like to do a twin setup but I would like to use the stock turbo but wondering if I should have it modded into a cheetah or not? What are the limits when adding a second turbo and still using the factory turbo? Would having it made into a cheetah make it work with a second charger better instead of limiting the setup?

I don't plan to full time drag race, sled pull, tow, or tug a truck with it but it will see one or more of the above occasionally. I just like to drive it and beat on it and looking to get more power. I was thinking since I have 40" tires even though I have 4:56 gears it will peg the EGT gauge at 1600 at WOT with Max effort tuning. So my thoughts were a twin setup would be great to add some power and keep the egts down. Let me know what you guys think would be a good mate to run with my stock charger to make a twin setup and if making the stock charger into a cheetah would make much sense in this setup. Thanks
 

ChevyDieselLLY

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there is a guy on here (James) who has 37's and twins (stock over a 475 i think) and he bent all his rods very shortly after the twins. not saying you will but just a thought.

as far as modding the stock turbo. i think you would be happier in the long run with a new turbo all together. i had a 366/480 setup on my truck and it was awesome. on a tune that would peg out my 60 psi boost gauge i wouldnt see over 1400 (i bent all 8 rods and put a hole in my block)

so i would just leave the stock turbo the way it is. you will be fine there are guys who have ran mid 11's i think (could be wrong) with a stock turbo / 475 combo.
 

Dirtymaxx03

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i wouldnt get into modding the stocker for the top turbo. I would leave it alone and put an s475 under it. That will yield you plenty of power to destroy your rods and put a nice window in your block. Like said above big tires and high hp stock motors dont mix well, some have had better luck than others. stay with the s475 under the stock turbo and keep the tuning conservetive
 

$Smokin_Duradog$

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YIKES:doh: I really do not want to bend the rods that's for sure. was just thinking a twin setup would be easier on the engine since it is always lugging the 40's around. I see EPR and SDP both offer the stock turbo + a 475 twin setup.

Maybe a stupid question but do any of the dmax guys run a turbo at the back of the truck like some of the Mustangs and MAros use? Like mount it at the back under the bed somwhere? Always wondered if there was any gain from this or just space restraints force them to relocate to the back of the car? Sure would think that it would casue lag having to fill all the extra pipe up but I was told that they spool faster than if they were under the hood?
 

$Smokin_Duradog$

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I really would just like to drop my EGT's. I have spare LB7 motor and was thinking of taking the stock bridge/horn off the intake and using it to make my own EGR delete setup for my LLY. Thought maybe I could mod a LB7 air intake setup to work with my LLY turbo as well and then switch the intercooler pipe so it matched up to the horn. Was going to look into this closer tomorrow. Just trying to help the engine breath better with all that fuel should help drop the EGTs.
 

Dirtymaxx03

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YIKES:doh: I really do not want to bend the rods that's for sure. was just thinking a twin setup would be easier on the engine since it is always lugging the 40's around. I see EPR and SDP both offer the stock turbo + a 475 twin setup.

Maybe a stupid question but do any of the dmax guys run a turbo at the back of the truck like some of the Mustangs and MAros use? Like mount it at the back under the bed somwhere? Always wondered if there was any gain from this or just space restraints force them to relocate to the back of the car? Sure would think that it would casue lag having to fill all the extra pipe up but I was told that they spool faster than if they were under the hood?
the only reason there are rear mounted charges is because there isnt enough room to mount the turbo/s under the hood. mostly a car/small truck thing. we have lots of room :thumb:
I really would just like to drop my EGT's. I have spare LB7 motor and was thinking of taking the stock bridge/horn off the intake and using it to make my own EGR delete setup for my LLY. Thought maybe I could mod a LB7 air intake setup to work with my LLY turbo as well and then switch the intercooler pipe so it matched up to the horn. Was going to look into this closer tomorrow. Just trying to help the engine breath better with all that fuel should help drop the EGTs.

if you can afford it get twins. your egts will drop a shit ton. Twins is safer than a large single but have the potential (with the right tuning) to pop a stock motor with ease. So all you gotta do is talk to your tuner and tell him to keep the tuning as safe as possible
 

ChevyTruckGuy78

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i would be careful running any of the bigger tunes with those big tires but i tow daily with my twins and they really move my truck just make sure u have a built trans(something i haven't done yet and regretting it) just noticed ur sig says u got one so u should be good
i did the stock turbo with the s475
 

Chevy1925

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YIKES:doh: I really do not want to bend the rods that's for sure. was just thinking a twin setup would be easier on the engine since it is always lugging the 40's around. I see EPR and SDP both offer the stock turbo + a 475 twin setup.

Maybe a stupid question but do any of the dmax guys run a turbo at the back of the truck like some of the Mustangs and MAros use? Like mount it at the back under the bed somwhere? Always wondered if there was any gain from this or just space restraints force them to relocate to the back of the car? Sure would think that it would casue lag having to fill all the extra pipe up but I was told that they spool faster than if they were under the hood?

i would put twins on if your lookin for egt drop. jsut dont run over a 2500uS for towing if you want to keep the power down low in the RPMs. If i knew what i know now, i wouldnt ever get off the second tune from trent lol. If you want to race around on a big tune, tune out all the torque you can down low and from 2400-2600 rpm then bring the power on otherwise your flirting to join the awesome bent rod club and quite possibly the quick change rod club. running that uS above felt jsut as strong as when my truck was on its biggest tune with the stock charger only accept i could tow on it and boy did it tow well. i never saw over 1400 degrees on the big tune racing and never over 1300 when on the towing tune (WOT on a 6% grade, 12k on the back, doin 90mph :D).

How your motor lives is all in the tuning, not the twins. be smart and tune accordingly and you should be fine. Seems like me and chris (dont remember his screen name but he blew his motor not long before me on the same twins, tuning, and had a straight axle front end on 37s) were guinee pigs to see how weight and big tires can affect the breaking point of a motor. Im still hesitant to say its all because of the tires and weight as i only know of two guys that fall in this catagory (chris and i) but it does seem likely. If you do go twins and run big tuning, just prepare yourself to drop another motor in or build it. i opted for the funner route :D
 
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Dirtymaxx03

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i would put twins on if your lookin for egt drop. jsut dont run over a 2500uS for towing if you want to keep the power down low in the RPMs. If i knew what i know now, i wouldnt ever get off the second tune from trent lol. If you want to race around on a big tune, tune out all the torque you can down low and from 2400-2600 rpm then bring the power on otherwise your flirting to join the awesome bent rod club and quite possibly the quick change rod club. running that uS above felt jsut as strong as when my truck was on its biggest tune with the stock charger only accept i could tow on it and boy did it tow well. i never saw over 1400 degrees on the big tune racing and never over 1300 when on the towing tune (WOT on a 6% grade, 12k on the back, doin 90mph :D).

i like your style
 

darkness

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i think your gears will be your saving grace!!! i believe James is still on the stockers
 

Chevy1925

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i like your style

i did too till things got shorter on me :roflmao:, i think my motor need viagra

i think your gears will be your saving grace!!! i believe James is still on the stockers

yes i am. i was just gettin ready to put 4.10s in too. the gears will help but on 40s and 4.56, its like having 35s and stock gearing in a sense. he has much more unsprung weight that needs to be takin into account compared to 35s as well.
 

Dirtymaxx03

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i see what you did there. if i bend a rod im gonna be stuck with

"the big single bent my rod"

i knew i shoulda got twins. that sounds way better than a big single :(
 

darkness

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:D and thats where "the twins bent my rod" comin into play :rofl:

patiently waiting for mine to make that "short" trip. and copy the unsprung weight. hell my 35's on H2's are farking heavy!!!
and 40's and 4.56 is closer to 33's on stockers which is going to be my next set up
 

$Smokin_Duradog$

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Good info guys thanks! The twins bent your rod... LMAO! Thats funny shit right there! I wonder how I would explain that to my wife :woott: Ok so twins sounds like a decent option I just need to limit the amout of fuel they get fed. Any idea what kind of power lvl the motor with live at with less EGT and slightly more power with the twins? With a twin setup like this will it help reduce cylinder pressure or does it still come down to the amount of fuel and air you are cramming in the cylinder to get the power? Could I run 40% injectors and bring some timing out of the tune and help the motor live?

Would be nice to change to twins and get some larger injectors and then later on build the motor up so that it could use that to its full potential. Would that be around the 700hp mark?
 

Dirtymaxx03

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adding 40 overs will allow you to run a shorter pulse tune which will help the motor. i'd have it tuned to 600 and you should be able to stay safe(r) in that range.