Slow Unfinished Hot Rod Build/LMM Extra-cab 3500 WT Cab and Chassis frame and engine/ZF-6 trans/Body??????
- Thread starter Gentrysgarage
- Start date
Could also be one of the the pressure sensors for the AC. Isn't there one or two of them in that same location?
Thanks Darkness and Jason, I don't see an intake heater, so I think it could be. I can rule out it being AC as all the connectors were still plugged in on that.
Progress made yesterday I Found the engine!
I am beginning to wonder if this engine really died by cracked piston or rather loss of water, all the wiring was oily but the top of the block was clean, bottom side is greasy, radiator was dry and I found this
This would suck as I was hoping to just use these heads on the cheaper engine build as they have less than 25K on them since the engine was rebuilt.
Question do these heads warp?
Seemed like a pick from the deep sea around the steam vents around volcanoes
Progress made yesterday I Found the engine!
I am beginning to wonder if this engine really died by cracked piston or rather loss of water, all the wiring was oily but the top of the block was clean, bottom side is greasy, radiator was dry and I found this
This would suck as I was hoping to just use these heads on the cheaper engine build as they have less than 25K on them since the engine was rebuilt.
Question do these heads warp?
Seemed like a pick from the deep sea around the steam vents around volcanoes
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Also, got fed up with the parts engine's harmonic balancer bolt, swallowed my can of spinach (Popeye the Sailorman reference for the younger generation), set the feet down on the engine stand, put one flexplate bolt in the crank which rested on the engine stand's head, got the 3/4" Pittsburg breaker bar and the handle off my floor jack and used my extra girth and got that dang thing off. Only casualty is said 3/4" braker bar has a bend in it now...a worthy sacrifice!
Just pulled an LBZ apart. Yes it's normal if they look like there were done by a machine. Mains are in the center of the cap.
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Hi Tom and 1FastBrick,
Its not bent bad, just if I wanted the sliding head to move I would have to tap it with a hammer, I never slide it so its no loss, just wondering if it will get worse on the 2nd engine. The first engine had some loctite of sorts on the threads from when someone had the front cover off in the past. Whatever it really did its job.
Thanks for the confirmation of the rod and main numbering. It shows that these engines were put together with more care than your average smallblock Chevy!
Not much done on the truck, removed driveshaft, cat back exhaust and lot of cleaning of the removed parts.
I have to say I am worried, the BOSS said "You're going to get it to run soon withouttaking the interior out right?" To which I said I hope so, not wanting to tell her that I plan to remove not just the interior but the whole body as well. When that time comes it has to be FAST!
Its not bent bad, just if I wanted the sliding head to move I would have to tap it with a hammer, I never slide it so its no loss, just wondering if it will get worse on the 2nd engine. The first engine had some loctite of sorts on the threads from when someone had the front cover off in the past. Whatever it really did its job.
Thanks for the confirmation of the rod and main numbering. It shows that these engines were put together with more care than your average smallblock Chevy!
Not much done on the truck, removed driveshaft, cat back exhaust and lot of cleaning of the removed parts.
I have to say I am worried, the BOSS said "You're going to get it to run soon withouttaking the interior out right?" To which I said I hope so, not wanting to tell her that I plan to remove not just the interior but the whole body as well. When that time comes it has to be FAST!
I had alot of fun tearing the engine down with my son, it was worth the waiting for him.
Alright well the engine had been rebuilt, unless they installed Mahle pistons from the factory. It is standard bore, but I an 99% it has to be bored
As far as I can tell the pistons are the most special part installed with the rebuild. I am concerned that Mahle (which normally is the best pistons) broke. I like how the cam has both the revision date and production date stamped in it. Its a very early LMM 
QUESTION: Is the tool chatter normal for the crank? I don't like stress risers either, it seems they stopped the grinder to try and fix it midway, to no avail.
Time to get the block off the stand and get the other engine out of the truck.
Alright well the engine had been rebuilt, unless they installed Mahle pistons from the factory. It is standard bore, but I an 99% it has to be bored
As far as I can tell the pistons are the most special part installed with the rebuild. I am concerned that Mahle (which normally is the best pistons) broke. I like how the cam has both the revision date and production date stamped in it. Its a very early LMM QUESTION: Is the tool chatter normal for the crank? I don't like stress risers either, it seems they stopped the grinder to try and fix it midway, to no avail.
Time to get the block off the stand and get the other engine out of the truck.
Thanks for the reply 1FastBrick.
JoshH, no honestly I am not, this is my first DMax, but the one side says 3851 the other side is 3451 which when I looked the number, it came up with Mahle pistons and they have the coated skirts.
JoshH, no honestly I am not, this is my first DMax, but the one side says 3851 the other side is 3451 which when I looked the number, it came up with Mahle pistons and they have the coated skirts.
Very disappointed in the quality of "parts changers out there after my son and I tore this engine down. I hope there is a special place in hell for the guy who would use a worn out hex bit socket on an impact for removal and installation and even reused 4 that he had to use a chisel to remove! It gets better he used one of those chiseled allen bolt in the middle of the back of the oil pan, holding the flywheel adapter on! He even wanaged to pull out 2 of the inserts of the flywheel adapter. There were other shoddy install things, but reusing allens that were wallowed out is just plain stupid.
Alright enough of that the block turned out to have .020 Mahle replacement pistons and a 2003 date worn out cam that was also very tight, whoever RME of TX (was stamped on the freeze plug "overheat indicator" (I don't know the proper terminology is) I will definitely stay away from. I am shopping for a central TX machine shop to check out the blocks/cranks and heads
Alright enough of that the block turned out to have .020 Mahle replacement pistons and a 2003 date worn out cam that was also very tight, whoever RME of TX (was stamped on the freeze plug "overheat indicator" (I don't know the proper terminology is) I will definitely stay away from. I am shopping for a central TX machine shop to check out the blocks/cranks and heads
There is a good shop down here in Houston called Scroggins. Probably other good ones as well closer.
Tell you what, I love that homemade wood crane. Doubles as a cool driveway decoration, similar to a pergola.
I will drive for a good shop, just checked out the nearest machine shop and got flashbacks from the machine shop I worked at when I was in college, even looked to have the same vintage machines, (our crank grinder had a serial plate from the Regia Aeronautica {a war prize} dated 1942! I know there is a small town added fee, but 95.00 just to hot tank (have a machined 392 Firepower that had succomed to TX humidity) 175.00 for a keyway on the crank, 350 to external balance if no mallory metal 450 plus the cost of the mallory metal if they have to add any. So they are pretty much out. I did find RME who rebuilt the engine from the truck and their reviews are just as I would expect them to be after tearing this motor down. So I am still looking for a closer shop first, then will check out Scroggins. Thanks
Thanks that was the idea, thing didn't even creak!
If they do quality machine work and have experience with machining a Duramax block, those prices are actually pretty good.
Agreed, those costs are pretty reasonable. That's about what I pay here at our local machine shop. They do great work but take AGES to get it done.
I will say this. Some of the old equipment if properly maintained and used is still some of the best equipment.
I too would agree on the prices. It's all relative and some times what we think is too much is actually fair or in some cases under priced for the time and service provided.
When I get a bill for $1000 I always want to throw a fit and say WTF are you charging for??? But I have to remind my self. This isn't 1990's labor rates any more. We're also paying some that is supposed to be skilled at what they do. Does any one here work for minimum wage? Does any one here work for a company that charges less than $100 an hour labor rate?
Any way, if they are skilled enough and hold tolerance properly they may not be out of line. It cost far more to fix bad machine work. I forgot who it was but some one here had taken an engine down to a shop that did poor work and had to have it done over on a new block.
Sorry for the rant, just had to put my 2 cents worth...
FYI, my machine shop did not have a torque plate so I purchased one from ICT billet for use on my block. They don't do alot of DMax so it doesn't make since for them to buy a $900 plate for 1 job...
If I had more time I would have made my own. But the time and money for the material alone made the ICT unit more cost effective.
I too would agree on the prices. It's all relative and some times what we think is too much is actually fair or in some cases under priced for the time and service provided.
When I get a bill for $1000 I always want to throw a fit and say WTF are you charging for??? But I have to remind my self. This isn't 1990's labor rates any more. We're also paying some that is supposed to be skilled at what they do. Does any one here work for minimum wage? Does any one here work for a company that charges less than $100 an hour labor rate?
Any way, if they are skilled enough and hold tolerance properly they may not be out of line. It cost far more to fix bad machine work. I forgot who it was but some one here had taken an engine down to a shop that did poor work and had to have it done over on a new block.
Sorry for the rant, just had to put my 2 cents worth...
FYI, my machine shop did not have a torque plate so I purchased one from ICT billet for use on my block. They don't do alot of DMax so it doesn't make since for them to buy a $900 plate for 1 job...
If I had more time I would have made my own. But the time and money for the material alone made the ICT unit more cost effective.